For sure! They closed the gates on us at 9:00 pm sharp, so there was some planning involved on that project.
V8 Swap Question: Getting Full driveline weight on Frame w/o Mounts
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I always have the manifold on its easier to tape up
A carb flange to keep weld splatter grinding dust
out
use the accessory holes in the heads to mount your load leveller
A carb flange to keep weld splatter grinding dust
out
use the accessory holes in the heads to mount your load leveller
- Thread starter
- #23
I thought I would be the only one with that problem now a days
I actually use a lifting plate that bolts on to the carb flange
A degree or two up or down won't affect anything
I actually use a lifting plate that bolts on to the carb flange
A degree or two up or down won't affect anything
- Thread starter
- #25
I thought long and hard about "modernizing" to a roller-block 350/TBI, which is the direction I'll likely go when this 283 finally dies, but, aside from leaking oil from every orifice it didn't smoke at all, and has compression around 155 across all cylinders - I couldn't justify getting rid of it just yet. Plus, it doesn't seem down on power, and I have a record from the PO showing that it may have received an RV cam at some point. Seems to me it was "back-yard" rebuilt at some point in the recent past.
I've seen the carb-flange crane mounts. I know they've been used a billion times over the years and are probably 100% safe, but still, the thought of holding 750lb of driveline via aluminum bolt holes makes me nervous. I always have a paper towel at a bare minimum over the lifter valley when I'm doing any work, so I think dropping it in without the intake will probably be alright.
Rick, after all is said and done, keep in mind the only time the carburetor will be on a set angle, and the drive shaft flanges on a set angle is when the vehicle is parked- - -so chances are anything you do will not be a problem.
I usually weld in scab plates maybe 4 or 5" long along the frame were the mounts will end up. You may find there's a stk hole in the frame where the mount is supposed to be welded in. Using the hoist and sling will be helpful, but the weight of the engine,trans and t/case can be cumbersome. I try to locate the front mounts and heavily tack them in so they will hold the weight of the driveline. Then you can set the engine assembly in with the pucks and bolts, and support the trans with a jack. This way you can adjust the driveline angle and check the t/case angle in relation to the pinion, and how low the Trans hangs below the frame. 3 to 5 degrees is good, but compromises can be made. Currently my driveine angle is more than that since I went to center rear output and a centered rearend.
- Thread starter
- #28
Sounds tough to mess up, in theory - I like that. At the end of the day, I agree, anything I do will be far superior than the setup the previous owner installed - where I couldn't even run a front driveshaft due to the engine location and poor driveline angle...
It was certainly cumbersome coming out (especially when my crane hydraulics failed).
Your plan sounds exactly like what I'm planning on doing. This should also give me an opportunity to mount the intake and check height/angle/distributor fitment etc. before I lock everything down permanently.
tack all the mounts in place ,motor and transmission make your tacks where you can easily cut in
with a zip cut
then you can put the weight on it
Check that steering clears exhaust manifolds
Manifolds clear frame etc triple check everything
Then burn the mounts in
Mine was already v8 swapped when I got it
With the frame levelled the carb flange is 5 deg down towards front
It drives fine no vibrations or u joint problems
So I left it when I swapped out the 327 for the 350'
And I will second the scab plates should use them to spread load over bigger area less likely to crack the mounts
I started typing this before other post dammit I'm slow lol
with a zip cut
then you can put the weight on it
Check that steering clears exhaust manifolds
Manifolds clear frame etc triple check everything
Then burn the mounts in
Mine was already v8 swapped when I got it
With the frame levelled the carb flange is 5 deg down towards front
It drives fine no vibrations or u joint problems
So I left it when I swapped out the 327 for the 350'
And I will second the scab plates should use them to spread load over bigger area less likely to crack the mounts
I started typing this before other post dammit I'm slow lol
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Sounds like exactly where I am with my driveline! Keep the 283 till it dies, then swap in something a bit more modern. I did pick up a Fel-Pro gasket set for mine and replaced a vast majority of the gaskets/seals. For $50 bucks Im happy with it. I didnt do the head gaskets/oil pan/rear main seal but everything else seemed well made. If yours is leaking might be worth looking into and is pretty quick to replace everything.
But I agree with Downey and wouldnt worry to much on the angles. More worry about position in the engine bay. Probably be the only time things are perfectly level.
ps...Im jealous of your Downey Bellhousing. I still havent decided exactly how Ill do my 283 to H42
Your vertical placement won't be as critical as your D/S -P/S placement. Run a string from front to back pinion flanges to line up your front to back driveline location. Your vertical placement is compensated with u-joints. I set the engine hight by centering the fan in the radiator and raised the tranny t/c as close to the tub without interface.
I actually swapped the 327 out because I didn't want to fight with the brackets to mount a power steering pump without the bolt holes in the heads
Your Downey bell housing is it the steel scatter can or a cast piece ?
Your Downey bell housing is it the steel scatter can or a cast piece ?
- Thread starter
- #33
Yeah, I'm not overly concerned with vertical placement. Pretty sure the tub and transmission will conflict before I run out of room under the hood for the air intake. I'm taking the radiator into account when setting height but at the end of the day I can cut and move those mounts too if it makes something else work better...seems like most folks wind up moving the radiator down anyway...
Yeah - that has been a big challenge for me as well. I'm going to try to keep the very low (in line with balancer) mount I had been running previously and hope the new mount location won't cause conflicts with the steering shaft. Before pulling the engine I had a couple inches to spare.
The Downey housing I am using is the cast aluminum design, not the scattershield. It is actually REPLACING an old steel scattershield housing - it hadn't been aligned quite properly and also had some stripped bolt holes. Plus, before I pulled the driveline I wasn't sure what mix/match of parts I'd fine inside, so buying a kit from Jim allowed me to "standardize" on a setup.
I bought this setup over a year ago and am just getting around to installing it - and I've probably been one of @Downey 's most high-maintenance customers since then. Jim has been incredible with the after sale support, really looking forward to getting it all installed.
You have the the ability of moving the motor around Easily now
I did power steering and then swapped motor because the
Low mount power steering I had wouldn't clear the steering shaft
I was under a tight timeframe or would have moved the motor around to make it work
I did power steering and then swapped motor because the
Low mount power steering I had wouldn't clear the steering shaft
I was under a tight timeframe or would have moved the motor around to make it work
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Bolt it up just for this one job. Cost: 10 mins. Save: Countless hours and that nagging feeling 'is it right??'
- Thread starter
- #36
I don't think there was ever any question it would get bolted up eventually, and the intent is certainly to have the carb "close" to level - but I figured measuring a 3-4 degree tilt at the manifold mounting flange on the engine would no doubt lead to a pretty close to "level" intake.
Once I get the front mounts tacked on I fully intend to pull the crane and mount the manifold to check final fitment and adjust tilt as necessary from the rear mounts before I lock everything down.