Urgent problem, out of town with t-case problem

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O

oakback

10 Year
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Threads
61
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569
Location
Tallahassee, FL
I'm currently in Helen, Georgia. I went on the Tray Mountain trail. Only weird thing I experienced on the trail was what sounded like a CV axle rattling when turned all the way, but it made it all the way through just fine.

Right at the end I was in hi gear with the center diff locked. I stopped at a stop sign about to pull onto pavement and hit the center diff button to unlock it. Then I heard a god awful grinding noise, and it wouldn't go forward or reverse under power.

I can drive it in low gear only, with no noises. It just grinds bad in hi, like it's not locking into gear all the way.

Any help is appreciated, or if you know a mechanic in the area that would be helpful.

I've got a rental car on the way, but I'm camping 30 miles away at Tallulah, and I'm scheduled to head back to Florida on Sunday.
 
Did you pull the grease caps yet? Axle or plate stripped?

I am 50 miles south of Helen. I have family in town and can't get to you, but you and yours are welcome here. I have tools and will help you wrench. I can attempt to get to a Toyota dealership for parts or you can have overnight/Sunday delivery here.

Ron
 
Reading the other posts, I'm highly convinced it's the CV axle c clips.

It drives fine in high gear with the CDL on, just some clicking when turned at full lock. Is it ok to drive it around like this until I can repair it? What about driving back to Florida?

Edit: no I didn't pull grease caps. I have zero tools with me.
 
Yes I have that, but it doesn't even have a flathead in it. Just the Phillips for tightening the handle sections.

I just picked up a cheap tool set from O'Reilly though so I'm gonna get back to the truck and check it out. I got the names of a few tire shops that are open till noon tomorrow, maybe they could help me.
 
Both clips are intact behind the caps. I gotta drive it back to the campground, parked illegally, I hope I don't bugger it all up in the process.

Edit: I drove fine, got it up to 65 mph without any noises or clunks or anything. I think I'm gonna drive it back to Florida like this and figure it out later.
 
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I think ACC[?] is in Georgia in case something happens. There are a couple guys in north florida/Georgia area in the Florida Land Cruiser Ass. club. Post on there if you need anyting.
 
This

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= potentially blown front diff. Welcome to the world of the 2 pinion front diff. I would suggest pulling the front DS and the drive flanges for your drive back so you don't increase the possible damages.
 
Thanks, I think I'll do that. I got a basic socket set for that reason. Just to clarify, I can remove the snap ring, unbolt and remove the drive flanges, and that's fine to drive like that?
 
It sounds like the splines on the axel or drive flange may have stripped, have you ruled this out yet? If I remember right the drivers side is typically the first to go, you should be able to tell with just the dust caps removed.
If not you may need to remove the flange. Most likely the splines or the diff, either one you will want to remove the front drive shaft and possibly the drive flanges and drive home with the center diff locked.
I'll pm you my number if you need to call.
Good luck.
 
oakback said:
Thanks, I think I'll do that. I got a basic socket set for that reason. Just to clarify, I can remove the snap ring, unbolt and remove the drive flanges, and that's fine to drive like that?
Click to expand...
You will need to lock the center diff. I drove 250+ miles home that way when we blew our front diff.
 
^^
Yes, if you remove the front D/S completely off the truck and flanges, then you have to have the center diff locked to drive the truck.

But then how can you drive in Low mode if the front diff is blown?

Is something stuck at the transfer case shift lever (from top or under the truck) preventing it moving forward to fully engage the gear?

Lift a front wheel at a time and try to spin it by hand. If it spins then stripped grooves. Then lift both wheels and spin one wheel and feel/listen to the diff.
 
Can the CV as fail at the joint with the boot still intact? It rides fine in hi and lo with CDL engaged.

Before I disconnect everything for the ride home, for curiosity's sake I'll view the shafts when my wife shifts into drive (without moving) for a quick second. I'll be looking under to see what spins and what doesn't.

If there was an issue with the t case linkage, I wouldn't be able to shift into hi at all, right? CDL or not.
 
It's the CV axle at the drive flanges. I had my wife pop it into drive for a quick second, and can clearly see the axle spinning in the stationary flange on the driver's side.

I'm glad it's not something worse. Should I still disconnect stuff for the drive home? Or just leave the cap off and let it do whatever slight spinning it might do?
 
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Edit: I took to long to write I see you found before I posted.

Front drive shafts' CV joints (AKA CV's) can fail and boot may still be intact, especially at early stage. The CV joint still hold in place, but bearings & cage go bad. They'll make a grinding noise while driving once bad enough. If bearings and cage are very loose (damaged) you can see play between the inner and outer halves (as defined by boots) of front drive shaft. TEST: Spin wheel back and forth slightly while watching front drive shaft for play between halves.

You looked at your snap rings, buy did you have wheel raised off ground and look to see if wheel hub (wheel) would spin independent of axle. Just because snap ring is on does not mean hub flange teeth are good. If teeth striped out you will be able to turn wheel, but axle will not move in tandem. TEST: With grease cap off spin wheel. Axle and wheel hub flange should move together, there should be zero play between axle & hub flange.

Place jack to raise one wheel at a time. Just raising tire 1" off ground. I've not tried getting the bottle jack under LCA near ball joint, but if it fits this would be sweet lift point. Then you can do both above test, one wheel at a time. Be careful jack on solid ground, wheels blocked and don't get your body under any danger point in event jack fails or truck rolls.

Not knowing your level of mechanical knowledge: To be clear; axle goes through wheel hub flange and has snap ring wrapped around axle end in grove.

T-case:
Hi / low, if it shifts it works, it's hard to move and kind of pops in (shift while in neutral). You can tell by very high RPM if it's stuck in low.
 
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