Nightmare...Transfer case issues while starting from light...but drives w/ center diff locked? (1 Viewer)

[jayLC1]

So I was sitting at a light in my 2004 LC 100 feeling GREAT! I was finally working on my own truck! I had changed the rear breaks and swapped the rear diff fluid this past weekend. The diff fluid change was a surprise after I saw the fill bolt was loose and seeping fluid.

The light changes, I hit the gas and BUMP! followed by grinding. Putting the truck in PARK, it ROLLS BACKWARD. I am pushed to the side by two cops...

The drive shaft is intact, but in D, or R it grinds.

I talk to a friend on the phone that works on transmissions, via the wonders of FaceTime, he is able to see the engine closer then I can as I hold the phone under the truck. He has me switch into gear with the phone "watching". Nothing, it grinds and rolls BACKWARD in park.

OK, now we test it with the center diff locked - success. I drive 65 miles home and leave it at a shop.

This is BAD, I have just bought a house and it's REALLY (as usual) BAD timing...NOT Happy!

Thoughts?

 

[marques]

Looks like you stripped the splines in one of the front drive plates. Not a major repair, but you may also need a new front half shaft depending on how bad things got stripped. Basically one of the front hubs is freewheeling (that is the grinding sound when you put the transmission in D or R). It gets all the power and the truck goes nowhere. Until you lock the center differential...

 

[jLB]

Similar symptom here:

Tranny/transfer takes dump

(resolution was front axle shaft and snap ring.)

It may not be your exact issue, but should get you looking in the right area(s)

 

[jayLC1]

Mechanic is saying it's something in the Transfer case. Perhaps some splines stripped somewhere. It would seem that it's something that is affecting the regular but not "Locked" aspect of the transfer case.

 

[DirtDawg]

Once again as mentioned above, I would check your cv's and drive flanges first. Unless your mechanic was able to pinpoint exactly that it was coming from the t case, it would be easier to start by looking at the cv/flanges. Really just need to pop off your dust caps to check your drive flanges. Not too many mechanics are familiar with the LC/LX and unless its a shop specializing in them, I would take their advice with a grain of salt.

 

[yotasavg]

Mechanic is saying it's something in the Transfer case. Perhaps some splines stripped somewhere. It would seem that it's something that is affecting the regular but not "Locked" aspect of the transfer case.

While you can respect your mechanic's opinion, if he's not really familiar with the 100 you should suggest the above advice. It's much more likely than something breaking in the tcase.

 

[jayLC1]

OK, went by today to look at the truck in the daylight and found some additional info out.

1. No codes from a cheap scan tool from the auto parts store
2. The sound is DEFINITELY in the front driver's side area
3. After I flipped it on and got the grinding sound, there was a small pile of black particles inside the DRIVER SIDE wheel

I ordered a CV joint from CarQuest. They only had ONE option available, but available TOMORROW. I had wanted to get the Cardone with the heavy duty boot, but it was not available. Any thoughts on CV joints? Is there a wide variance in quality to the point you'd wait a week?

 

[benc]

Like stated above,
Most likely the cv and drive flange .
Oem is the only way to go for the cv and drive flange IMO.
Fwiw, the drivers side is typically the first to go but the passenger side will likely be soon to follow, it's a good idea to replace both at the same time along with both drive flanges.

 

[sean2202]

I agree with benc OEM. Example had a friend use aftermarket cv's and the steel was softer and it broke off inside his front diff. That repair cost him a lot more in the long run. He also wheels pretty hard so maybe an extreme example. Also aftermarket cv seem to click more for whatever reason. How many miles on your rig at failure?

 

[jayLC1]

OK I am thinking I need a CV joint and the flange it goes into, this because there is no way that grinding did not tear it up. If worse comes to worse, I will have it when it DOES happen.

Where can I get this? I am having trouble sourcing it...

 

[DirtDawg]

Contact @beno , he can get you whatever parts you need.

 

[yotasavg]

So for the future people this will inevitably happen to, it's ok do drive home with the center diff locked right? Effectively just in rwd at that point?

 

[jayLC1]

I don't know about how great an idea it is to drive the vehicle if it's the CV joint. I've had those break and poke clear into the pavement in another car. Although I was going slow, a tow might have been a better idea. I think foremost in my mind was that the paycheck coming the next day was supposed to be the first without a major big expense waiting to eat it.

Apparently, while I was under the understanding the previous owner followed the factory maintenance schedule at the dealership, the bearings were not serviced. The mechanic said that the bearing area was like powdered with no grease. I am buying a number of seals, bearings and such. It's going to run $351.74 + whatever I pay for the CV joint.

My big dilemma now is to go with the OE for $375 or an aftermarket for $75. It is quite hard to justify 5X the price. I have looked quite hard for a middle ground, such as the Nitro version (that I can't find in stock). (See: AXTBIRF-TLC100IFS ) I get it, OE would probably be better, but right after buying a house/farm, I am simply tight on the dollar. At this point, I am thinking I may get the aftermarket, and perhaps swap it for the OE later, and use the aftermarket as a spare (it's easy to have an "extra" for $75, rather then $400).

 

[bucfl]

Go after market. There are couple items i could not justify paying OE for also. Its not always good timing, so make do with what ya got.

 

[jayLC1]

Like stated above,
Most likely the cv and drive flange .
Oem is the only way to go for the cv and drive flange IMO.
Fwiw, the drivers side is typically the first to go but the passenger side will likely be soon to follow, it's a good idea to replace both at the same time along with both drive flanges.

I am planning on replacing the passenger side soon. If I replace it before it is needed, I can salvage a trail spare, or even try my hand at rebuilding.

 

[Julian Stead]

Why don't you go second hand(used) to save money, as the aftermarket ones seem to be an issue. Just a thought..