Build Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80

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Got the fan install all done. The fan is actuated by the AC amplifier. If the AC button is engaged the fan comes on. Initially I had it come on with the blower motor, but i concluded that was a stupid way to do it. I went through a hole below the headlight to get to the engine compartment. Also redid my intake hose a bit so it clears the hood.
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I had noticed the seam sealer in the rear hatch area was falling away from just being old. Since I had the front fender repaired I needed to install the bolts along with seam seal the fender to the fender well as factory. So I added seam seal to the fender and at the same time the hatch area. Last thing I need is moisture seeping into the spotwelds.

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I also painted and installed the roof guard rails and painted the rear wing. Not pictured is the hid/projector harness is installed.
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Started wiring fog lights. I am going to wire up the lights so they work like the jdm lights. The US version of the brights will now be fog lamps or if I put HID's in that side will just be very bright lights depending on my bulb choice. I had another same style relay that I used for my fan that I got off of ebay a while ago. As I was looking into where to put it, I noticed that the relay female plug looked awfully similar to the blank relay female plug in the factory fuse box in the engine compartment. So I popped out the female pins from the aftermarket relay plug. The yellow thing in the factory fuse box pops up if you use a pocket screwdriver to pull it up and in that position you can wiggle in the female pins and they click in like a factory pin and are solid. I think most aftermarket relay female pins will fit here. It takes a bit to figure out how to remove them from the aftermarket plug-I used a paper clip, pushed the paper clip in so it slides behind the clip and pull it out. The relay fit nicely, I just cut the tab off. I looked on ebay for more of these 40 amp relays. I can find the relay easy, but not with the female side. But the other relays that have different shaped plugs have the same female pins that can be popped out, so just but the individual relays and then some relay plugs and pop out the pins. You can also see my added 25amp fuse for the HID kit in the fuse box too. I will add more fuses into this fuse box as I add circuits.
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Wow! Crazy...Not even 10minutes ago I was reading up on/sorting out in my head this very thing. It’s the only thing I didn’t complete during my swap and although I almost never use cruise it would be nice to have.

Just finished watching this video:

 
9
thatcabledude said:
Wow! Crazy...Not even 10minutes ago I was reading up on/sorting out in my head this very thing. It’s the only thing I didn’t complete during my swap and although I almost never use cruise it would be nice to have.

Just finished watching this video:

Click to expand...

I have drive by cable throttle body. Which is different wiring than dbw. You have dbw don't you?
 
Not really a interesting update, mostly just for my own notes.
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Here is the projector schematic. Factory brights are engaged by the stalk switching on the ground. To get the projector eye lid to work needed to add a home made slee type of harness for h4 brights to trigger eye lid. Here is rough schematic of slee type harness. Squiggles are initial wiring I screwed up and eliminated.
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Slee relay is triggered by bright stock ground side of factory brights pigtail to engage hot h4 brights. The Slee relay is integrated into stock fuse box on the left. The added relay on the right is for auxiliary lights.
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Cleaned up the rear crossmember underneath the bumper ends and coated in por15. I will remove the connector and fill the hole and install a new connector for the trailer wiring.
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Got some new led brake light bulbs. These flash on initial braking.
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Bought this which fits in a standard power port hole like the round USB charge ports that are now popular. This has a temp probe and will display outside air temp.
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For trailer brakes I wanted a remote mount redarc unit for a clean install. But they are expensive. Found this similar unit from Reese for much less. Just a knob and led will be on the dash for trailer brake control.
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[ATTA

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I'm not sure how the last owner made this hole in the middle of the rear crossmember. Maybe with an ice pick? This will get hot glued shut.
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I'm going to try mounting this backup camera in the rear window. Not sure how well it will work. Fed the wire down the c-pillar.
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Pull the right rear side of the headliner down to switch the camera to mirror mode.
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Adding some power ports. This is probably the first time someone has ever added power ports in the cargo area of a 80 series.
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Hopefully this weekend I'll run the wiring to the power ports and camera and install the stereo.
 
White Stripe said:
Open header with cats only...


With exhaust hooked up. The sound doesn't come across well. It's really quiet. Basically it sounds exactly like a new tundra. The intake does growl some on acceleration. Since their is not much interest in this thread, future updates are going to be wiring info and other technical details for my own needed reference rather than feature things I've done to show others.
Click to expand...

I don’t speak often as I don’t feel I have much to contribute. I really like what you are doing. I for one was following this thread.
 
I’m following, I keep quiet since it seems like you have everything under control. :)

I think it’s cool to see more of a street daily-driver oriented build.
I really like your blacked out 4Runner.
 
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