Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)

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I've installed my kit with a 2007 Sequoia 150A and it's amazing! I have full output with everything I can find turned on in the truck at the same time...at idle!! The bracket, pulley and wiring pigtail are perfect and Bill was more than gracious and helpful. This mod ties with the Blue Fan clutch mod for best mod yet! It's awesome to have my blower and aux radiator fan blowing full speed no matter if I'm moving or standing still.
 
I've installed my kit with a 2007 Sequoia 150A and it's amazing! I have full output with everything I can find turned on in the truck at the same time...at idle!! ...............

Great to hear it is helping to solve the problem you were having.
 
Also, dumb question - Can you get the 150amp alternator new from Toyota (PN: 27060-0F050)? Or is that why everyone is trying to source used alternators?

The Toyota iteration will be a Denso remanufactured unit (they are remanufactured in Long Beach, CA by Denso for Toyota).

They are tough to find in the aftermarket in Denso iteration.

I would NOT put a used alternator into my truck without at least inspecting it and replacing the brush.

But that's just me. People put junk into their 80's a lot these days.
 
The Toyota iteration will be a Denso remanufactured unit (they are remanufactured in Long Beach, CA by Denso for Toyota).

They are tough to find in the aftermarket in Denso iteration.

I would NOT put a used alternator into my truck without at least inspecting it and replacing the brush.

But that's just me. People put junk into their 80's a lot these days.
I have a junkyard unit with 75K from a 2007 Sequoia. I replaced the brushes and the bearings. The stator and windings were in great shape. Pressing the bearings out SUCKED (due to lack of access) but the rest is a 1 :banana: job. The SST would be great to have for the bearings.
 
I just spoke with an online retailer (ToyotaPartsDeal.com) for the 150amp alternator. Before they will sell me the alternator, they require my VIN, mileage, and the reason for the replacement. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing???

If I want to buy a Toyota alternator and throw it off a bridge, isn’t that my business?
 
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I just spoke with an online retailer for the 150amp alternator. Before they will provide the alternator, they require my VIN, mileage, and the reason for the replacement. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing???

If I want to buy a Toyota alternator and throw it off a bridge, isn’t that my business?
Never heard of this before. As long as you are throwing them money, what do they care?
 
Certain parts (due to availability) are VIN limited for release only to applications with a real need for the part.

You need to find a VIN that applies to the part number in question. Or, try another dealer NOT in the GST parts distribution region.
 
Certain parts (due to availability) are VIN limited for release only to applications with a real need for the part.

You need to find a VIN that applies to the part number in question. Or, try another dealer NOT in the GST parts distribution region.

I went to my local Toyota dealer and they said they’d sell me the alternator, no questions asked. It is supposedly coming from Houston, and will be here tomorrow. I’ll confrim once I actually have it in my hands.

I won’t tell you what I paid for it.
 
I went to my local Toyota dealer and they said they’d sell me the alternator, no questions asked. It is supposedly coming from Houston, and will be here tomorrow. I’ll confrim once I actually have it in my hands.

I won’t tell you what I paid for it.

You paid what you paid.
 
I went to my local Toyota dealer and they said they’d sell me the alternator, no questions asked. It is supposedly coming from Houston, and will be here tomorrow. I’ll confrim once I actually have it in my hands.

I won’t tell you what I paid for it.
That payment part is what convinced me to R&R a $150 used unit with $50 in bearings and brushes. I'm still at 1/2 the cost of a Toyota reman. unit and my used one came with a 3-year warranty! I got stung with the Toyota reman. on my original OEM 80A which I still can't believe failed the week I was buying Photoman's bracket. Postponed this project for nearly 2 years.
 
I just spoke with an online retailer (ToyotaPartsDeal.com) for the 150amp alternator. Before they will sell me the alternator, they require my VIN, mileage, and the reason for the replacement. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing???

If I want to buy a Toyota alternator and throw it off a bridge, isn’t that my business?
yES THEY DID SAME THING TO ME WHEN i BOUGHT A 150 ALT, BUT when the newly remanned unit failed right out of the box the VIN helped make swapping it for another unit easier you will receive your alt from TPD from massachusetts dealer. first was NG second has almost 10000 miles on it no issues.
 
I would NOT put a used alternator into my truck without at least inspecting it and replacing the brush.

yES THEY DID SAME THING TO ME WHEN i BOUGHT A 150 ALT, BUT when the newly remanned unit failed right out of the box the VIN helped make swapping it for another unit easier you will receive your alt from TPD from massachusetts dealer. first was NG second has almost 10000 miles on it no issues.

I wonder if I should have the Toyota/Denso remanufactured alternator tested before I slap it on the truck. It would be interesting to see what amperage it puts out at idle anyway.


Do the remanufactured units have a history of failure?
 
Has anyone used a Bussmann/Blue Sea style circuit breaker instead of a big fuse for the "B" terminal white wire? This would allow you to just reset the system instead of buying a new fuse (if you get a short).

I suppose the downside is that you're committed to a particular sized breaker (200 amp? 175 amp?) once you install it. Whereas with the fuse boxes, you can just swap out a new fuse.


Bussmann/Blue Sea Breaker
Bussmann_1.jpg


Conventional Fuse Mount
Bussmann_2.jpg


(Apologies in advance if this has been discussed earlier in the thread. I'm still in the process of reviewing all 23 pages).
 
Has anyone used a Bussmann/Blue Sea style circuit breaker instead of a big fuse for the "B" terminal white wire? This would allow you to just reset the system instead of buying a new fuse (if you get a short).

I suppose the downside is that you're committed to a particular sized breaker (200 amp? 175 amp?) once you install it. Whereas with the fuse boxes, you can just swap out a new fuse.


Bussmann/Blue Sea Breaker
Bussmann_1.jpg


Conventional Fuse Mount
Bussmann_2.jpg


(Apologies in advance if this has been discussed earlier in the thread. I'm still in the process of reviewing all 23 pages).
I'm using a dual fuse setup from Blue Sea that bolts right on the battery terminal using 1" square fuses. Can't recall the type. I have a 150A for the alternator and a 200A for my 1/0 run to the rear quarter panel. Cant get any closer than ON the battery terminal and there's no mounting location issues.
 
I'm using a dual fuse setup from Blue Sea that bolts right on the battery terminal using 1" square fuses. Can't recall the type. I have a 150A for the alternator and a 200A for my 1/0 run to the rear quarter panel. Cant get any closer than ON the battery terminal and there's no mounting location issues.

My battery posts are already cluttered enough! Ha!

I was entertaining the breaker-style protection rather than a fuse, but was curious if anyone had done it before. Or could think of a reason not to.
 
My battery posts are already cluttered enough! Ha!

I was entertaining the breaker-style protection rather than a fuse, but was curious if anyone had done it before. Or could think of a reason not to.

I plan on using the breaker on mine when I finally get to the project.
 
Some people wanted an adapter to go from the stock alternator connector to the 130/150 amp alternators so I made some. This makes the upgrade a plug and play as far as the small wires go.

full
I need one of these. Is it 28.50? I can send payment on paypal
Thanks.
 

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