"ultimate" h55f 5spd conversion combo

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the output shaft splines for the a440f, h55f and h42s ( in fj60s ) is 18 spline so the cases interchange without mods. you have to add the 5th gear oil funnel and on the early cases you have to plug one of the bolt holes; it's right below the main shaft. that way the two units can't swap fluids.

this combo will bolt right into an fj40 with some tunnel mods. the rear drive shaft has to be shortened but you do not have to move the rear axle back.
 
Very nice - especially like that TSM bracket to hold the e-brake cable. Wondering if there will be any conflicts with the frame rail? What cable will you be using?

Nice red 40 with flipped springs in post #19 - damn nice.
 
not sure yet on the cable, depends on what handle is going to be used.....

as for the bracket, i have pondered that as well. if we run into an interferrance issue with it getting too close to the frame or the cable hitting the frame then we can rotate the bracket to one of the other positions. luckily the bolt pattern on the rear housing is even so we can bolt up the bracket in any of the 6 locations. a couple of them would'nt do us any good because the cable would point straight up or down but there are at least 3 good options.
 
That is very nice looking... I might be willing to part with a testical for a setup like that in my 40...
 
last but not least, my customer wanted to run a set of twin-stick shifters for the split case. nobody sells a kit but i had built a few one-off sets in the past so i decided to build my own set again, but this time with the thought in mind that i would keep in mind that i want to sell this in kit for in the very near future if there's enough interest.

Where'd you source the parts to make it look EXACTLY like an AA Twin Stick kit? Did you even use the nylon bushings or upgrade to bronze type bushings? Did you drill & tap the tcase plunger? I seem to remember that's hardened steel cuz I think I tried it before & couldn't do it w/ a regular drill. That tcase looks way stronger than the 'ol 3 spd. setup. I like the design of the nosecone, which isn't a seperate piece. Looks :cool: man....
 
Where'd you source the parts to make it look EXACTLY like an AA Twin Stick kit? Did you even use the nylon bushings or upgrade to bronze type bushings? Did you drill & tap the tcase plunger? I seem to remember that's hardened steel cuz I think I tried it before & couldn't do it w/ a regular drill. That tcase looks way stronger than the 'ol 3 spd. setup. I like the design of the nosecone, which isn't a seperate piece. Looks :cool: man....



from AA of course, with their full knowledge and blessing. i have been dealing with aa for 20 years and have a great working relationship with them. they do not offer a twin-stick kit for the split case which is one of the reasons i plan on producing/selling these. i figured it would be way easier and cheaper to make the kit by starting with as many commonly available parts as possible. so i use some oem toyota stuff and some AA parts along with my own.

look closely at the pics in post 18. it shows how i handled the 2wd-4wd shift linkage and attachmant point at the shift rail at the t-case end; it's the stock ball joint type stud and nylon bushing. i drilled the link, pressed in the stud and welded it from the back side.

the shift rail in the t-case is hardened so you're not gonna drill any holes in it. but there's no room for a link and heims like the aa kit anyways so no need to drill it.

i stuck with the nylon bushings for a few reasons; the most important being noise elimination and cost. i will offer the bronze bushings as an alternative if the need arises. these split cases shift a whole lot 'softer" than the orions so i don't forsee an issue with the nylon bushings at all.

there, now i gave away all my secrets. LOL :lol:
 
fwiw, i plan on selling the twin-stick it in two different versions; one for a single t-case and one for geartrains with doublers.

the standard kit will look very similar to the one pictured above.

the doubler kit will have to include a link with heims very similar to the AA kit for the earlier one-piece case. it will however require NO INTERNAL MODS and no disassembly of the t-case itself. strictly and external bolt-on as well. due to the amount of time and higher parts cost to produce this kit, the price will be a little higher but not that much.

georg @ valley hybrids
 
the output shaft splines for the a440f, h55f and h42s ( in fj60s ) is 18 spline so the cases interchange without mods. you have to add the 5th gear oil funnel and on the early cases you have to plug one of the bolt holes; it's right below the main shaft. that way the two units can't swap fluids.

this combo will bolt right into an fj40 with some tunnel mods. the rear drive shaft has to be shortened but you do not have to move the rear axle back.

Any reason why you wouldn't want to move rear axle so you can get some of that driveshaft length back?
 
I researched going with either the t-case ebrake or rear disk conversion with ebrakes. It was a no brainer, you gain about 2 inches in drive shaft length with the rear disk with ebrake and it costs about the same.
 
Any reason why you wouldn't want to move rear axle so you can get some of that driveshaft length back?

not at all. i just wanted to make sure that you were aware that you can run this combo without moving the axle back. personally, i like moving the axle back on a lifted 40 to stretch the wheelbase out a little and gain some drive shaft length.
 
Nice work, Georg!

tangent: Do you know if a tcase speedo correction gear for split cases work on a 62 split case? And a source? looking for one for my conversion that will make the speedo correct for 33s. (10-15%)
 
Nipple!:whoops:
 
Can't believe how good the unit looks !. We need professional services, at least me, here on the east coast !

pm send
 
love the twin shifter set-up, I'll be hitting you up for one of those. Looking good:beer:


yes, i did the full manual conversion on the 62 case. not difficult as long as the case is apart and you have the proper parts and tools to complete the conversion.


any chance you've got any of those Toyota part numbers for this? I have a FJ62 split t-case that I'm going to mate up to a H55 and would like to run the twin shifters on it, I've already got the drill and tap just need the Toyota list.
 
thanks for posting the link esh; eric's write-up is great. let me know if you guys need any more info, i've done the conversion a few times now.

here's the short list of items you'll need:
1) detent cup
2) detent spring
3) check ball
4) 2wd-4wd shift rail; the fork is identical
5) shift rail seal and boot
6) case half gasket
7) rear ext hsng gasket
8) front half to trans/spacer gasket
9) new input seal
10) range selector fork ( different cut-away so different angle for the lever ( you can use the 62 stocker for the twin-stick setup).
11) external range selector linkage lever
12) range selector seal

if it were me, i'd opt for a complete reseal kit and tear the case all the way down, inspect it all and then re-assemble with all new gaskets and seals.

you can do the shifter mod in the vehicle but it's a pita. so i'd suggest removing the case.

the shift rails are close to $100 from the dealer but they can be found used, i have bout several from fellow mudders. make sure you look at everythig else before buying anything so you can handle it all in one fell swoop if possible.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
 
very true.
problem is that most of the time i can't afford to wait a week to get the hardware cleaned. on the other hand, i do have a plethra of extra cruiser hardware in the stash. :cool:

Got the tumbler from Eastwood, but I would look around for a better price if I were you. Get the largest one that is reasonable for you. Also look around online there are a couple of good howtos on making a good powder coated on the cheap. All you really need is one of those old ionic breeze air cleaners that nobody wants anymore for the electric parts. Use Castawells high gloss clear. Get a disposable aluminum tray drill some holes in it to suit you bolt needs. Put the bolts in so thawt the head is just above the tray bottom. Powder coat and toss the whole thing in a toaster oven.
 
georg,
Did you have to (or do you expect to have to) mod the curved tube mid-frame X member to fit the longer than stock tranny/TC/PB combo? Do you have any pics of this in the truck?

Mark
 
georg,
Did you have to (or do you expect to have to) mod the curved tube mid-frame X member to fit the longer than stock tranny/TC/PB combo? Do you have any pics of this in the truck?

Mark



hey mark.
thanks for the reply. you do have to remove the x-member behind the t-case in order to get this combo into an fj40. i recommend moving it back closer to the rear spring hangers. i aalso like to weld a scab plate to the inside of the frame rails to strengthen the entire assembly/structure.
i do not have any pics of this particular combo installed in the truck and i will not be doing the install myself; the customer had me build it. the entire setup will be shipped to ipor on the easy coast where the install will take place.
hopefully lance and the crew will get a chance to take pics of the install and post them up here on mud. otherwise i'm sure the owner will, he's a mudder as well.
however, i finished a very similar conversion here at the shop a couple of months ago. i'm afraid i do not have any pics of the installed combo without the skid plate installed. here are a couple of pics of the completed job. this 40 has a body lift so it only required minimal tunnel mods.

georg @ valley hybrids
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