TEQ, i noticed that you have ordered a tailgate. Which one did you opt for. Are you going to have to drill holes or can it use the existing hardware from the ambi doors. BTW your parts shipped today.
Builds Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TEQ
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TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #283
Got the parts. Thanks! I'm going to try to find time to put the housing on today...
Did you manage to get the spacer (windshield) in the box? I dug around but couldn't find it.
I got the CCOT tailgate. It (barely) fits the existing holes. I actually had to leave two bolts out on the left side for now. I had tried two lift gates that Bull had and neither of them came close to lining up; my rig is "wider" than either his 79 or 73.
I think that when I get a chance I will elongate horizontally the 8 hinge holes on the body so that it (and maybe one of Bull's lift gates) fits better. But it's secure for now.
Oh, and in your PM you asked about the red TEQ sticker on my wheel. I bought that last year off of someone here on mud who had made them. I can't remember who from and can't find the thread. I'll keep looking...
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #284
Tonight I installed the thermostat housing from Melloj123 (thanks!). It contained a 190 degree thermostat that was in far better condition than the two I had here (both 180s). I hope I don't have a problem with it running too hot now (but a mud search found several threads where folks say it should be fine).
I got new gaskets and seals from SOR and am now 99% positive I no longer will have coolant leaks. We'll see
Did some reading on emissions crap; found an old thread I was involved in that I'd forgotten about. A plan is forming:
New seatbelts are next too...
I got new gaskets and seals from SOR and am now 99% positive I no longer will have coolant leaks. We'll see
Did some reading on emissions crap; found an old thread I was involved in that I'd forgotten about. A plan is forming:
- Source a proper 78 carb and have it re-built by FJ40Jim
- Figure out if the fact that my gas tank appears to be plumbed wrong makes any difference (the outlet is plugged and the feed to the engine is from the bottom of the tank; Bull claims this is screwy
). - Ensure all other smog parts are for a 78
- Pull all smog parts, clean and inventory
- Get new vacuum tubing
- Re-install and configure and test the PCV, vac advance, EVAP, decel fuel cut, HIC, and dissy vent (the "good stuff" according to FJ40Jim)
- Plug, leave off, and otherwise disable the "bad stuff": EGR, AIR, HAC (yes my rig has the high-altitude crap), TP, and vacuum retard.
- Tune-up
New seatbelts are next too...
Don't forget the emissions manual for a 1978 from your list, it is where that 1978 federal emission schematic in the thread you linked to came from. It should also have some system specific diagrams and troubleshooting steps to check operations as you bring it back to life.
To that end, be patient with the emissions equipment, it will not "bolt" on and instantly work, some of the parts may need some TLC to get it to all work together. Mine certainly did.
I learned the system by installing them one system at a time, and then learning how they interacted. I went from the most basic out. The key was to ensure a good seal and functioning components at each step. Getting good vacuum tubing and making sure it sealed was probably the most important step I took. If the system is working right, you should not need to disable any of the systems.
-Danny
To that end, be patient with the emissions equipment, it will not "bolt" on and instantly work, some of the parts may need some TLC to get it to all work together. Mine certainly did.
I learned the system by installing them one system at a time, and then learning how they interacted. I went from the most basic out. The key was to ensure a good seal and functioning components at each step. Getting good vacuum tubing and making sure it sealed was probably the most important step I took. If the system is working right, you should not need to disable any of the systems.
-Danny
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #286
Got a bunch of random stuff done today:
A few shots of the seat belts. Really exciting stuff. Bought these from CCOT and they work fine. They tend to "grab" more (the tensioner) when I go over bumps and the belt grabs my shoulder, but i kinda like it.
The nut welded to the roll cage where the belt attaches to the top part of the roll bar on the pass side was stripped. My metric die set does not include a 11mm X 1.25 die. I ran around trying to find one locally but no joy. I screwed an old bolt in to the "back side" of the nut and cut enough of the threads where the new bolt finally went in cleanly. In the meantime I ordered a 11mm x 1.25 die from Snap-on so I'll have one next time.
Here's the tuffy box, seatbelts and half-doors in one pic... When in Reverse, 2nd and 4th the shift knob *almost* touches the box. I'm gonna borrow Bull's torch and bend the stalk a bit...
If you look closely you'll see that i've only installed the front two bolts for each hinge on the drivers side. This is because the paki doors don't quite fit right. I need to elongate the holes in the hinges about 1/4". The passenger side is fine.
Note LE the 18 year old kitten and Kona the black lab with a small brain.
Note the gap at the rear of the doors? This is with the strikers Eshan provided on the correct sides.
Just for kicks, I tried reversing the strikers. I put the left one on the pass side and the left one on the drivers side. Makes for a perfect fit.
If I get some weather stripping there won't even be any rattling...
Bull and I are planning a paint party soon. Now that I have the doors on I'll be motivated to get it done.
- Took pics of for-sale stuff and posted here
- Installed new seatbelts
- (re)Installed Tuffy Box
- Fitted my Pakistan half-doors
- Tried to determine why i'm still leaking coolant but failed (didn't try that hard)
A few shots of the seat belts. Really exciting stuff. Bought these from CCOT and they work fine. They tend to "grab" more (the tensioner) when I go over bumps and the belt grabs my shoulder, but i kinda like it.
The nut welded to the roll cage where the belt attaches to the top part of the roll bar on the pass side was stripped. My metric die set does not include a 11mm X 1.25 die. I ran around trying to find one locally but no joy. I screwed an old bolt in to the "back side" of the nut and cut enough of the threads where the new bolt finally went in cleanly. In the meantime I ordered a 11mm x 1.25 die from Snap-on so I'll have one next time.
Here's the tuffy box, seatbelts and half-doors in one pic... When in Reverse, 2nd and 4th the shift knob *almost* touches the box. I'm gonna borrow Bull's torch and bend the stalk a bit...
If you look closely you'll see that i've only installed the front two bolts for each hinge on the drivers side. This is because the paki doors don't quite fit right. I need to elongate the holes in the hinges about 1/4". The passenger side is fine.
Note LE the 18 year old kitten and Kona the black lab with a small brain.
Note the gap at the rear of the doors? This is with the strikers Eshan provided on the correct sides.
Just for kicks, I tried reversing the strikers. I put the left one on the pass side and the left one on the drivers side. Makes for a perfect fit.
If I get some weather stripping there won't even be any rattling...
Bull and I are planning a paint party soon. Now that I have the doors on I'll be motivated to get it done.
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #289
Long time no post... Haven't played with Uglina much and didn't put the top on this winter so haven't driven her much either.
She's been leaking anti-freeze since I got her back on the road and I finally started digging in to figure out where last week.
Based on the fact that almost all coolant leaked out over the winter I have concluded the leak is fairly low down on the radiator.
Today I took the front clip and splash shield off and did several runs, cleaning any dripping coolant up I could see. I simply cannot figure out where the leak is.
How do you figure out where a leak in a radiator is?
She's been leaking anti-freeze since I got her back on the road and I finally started digging in to figure out where last week.
Based on the fact that almost all coolant leaked out over the winter I have concluded the leak is fairly low down on the radiator.
Today I took the front clip and splash shield off and did several runs, cleaning any dripping coolant up I could see. I simply cannot figure out where the leak is.
How do you figure out where a leak in a radiator is?
I have a pressure tester. Fill the radiator, pump it up, enjoy a cold one and watch for leaks. Best done cold, because a hot leak can evaporate.
You still by the lake?
You still by the lake?
before you hose her down. Look for dried coolant. You going to be around tomorrow?
Call me if you want some company in the shop. There is no we, unless you worked on the transfer case last. That would be all me.
Another option is to bring her by the shop this week and I can fix a couple of your isssues. (leaks, etc) I want you happy with the work that was done and I get the feeling you are less than satisfied. We also need to re-torque all your lift parts.
-bull
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #294
Dude, stop sweating it. I have no issues with the work you did. Seriously.
But I still may take you up on your offer to bring it by.
Unlikely I'll be able to any more work today. I just put the clip back on and will drive a bit this afternoon to see if I can see where the coolant is coming from now that the splash pan is removed.
Do you have a pressure tester?
That sure is a good write- up, I love the color . I have to spend more time in the 40 series tech. thanks
Aaron
Aaron
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #298
Just sourced a "new" carb that supposedly is a very close match for my rig. Now if I can just get FJ40Jim to reply to my messages I can get him to rebuild it for me. Then I can re-do all the emmisions stuff and focus on "getting the stink out".
She's also running a bit rich, but i'm not going to futz with it until I get the new carb in.
The radiator is still leaking at tiny bit. So i'm gonna get bull to put his pressure tester on it and see what's next.
Sure is nice finally have a few nice days in the PNW so I can drive her with the top off...
She's also running a bit rich, but i'm not going to futz with it until I get the new carb in.
The radiator is still leaking at tiny bit. So i'm gonna get bull to put his pressure tester on it and see what's next.
Sure is nice finally have a few nice days in the PNW so I can drive her with the top off...
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #299
Sent the "new" carb off to JimC. Should have it back in about 5 weeks. I'm now going to start figuruing out all the other parts I need. The key things I'm looking for now are:
* Correct air cleaner housing with emmissions tube attachment points
* New vacuum tube tubing
I'm also trying to find the time to get my doors in and painted...
* Correct air cleaner housing with emmissions tube attachment points
* New vacuum tube tubing
I'm also trying to find the time to get my doors in and painted...
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #300
New/rebuilt carb should be here any day now. I need to start prepping.
You'll recall that as I've fixed this rig up I've discovered (links to posts within this thread);
The carb on this rig is a '76. Somewhere along the line someone put a webber on it and then replaced that with a carb from a '76. As a result the emissions stuff is really screwy and the air cleaner does not fit correctly.
The rig has the optional high-altitude system on it.
The rig stinks of fuel when driving. It's almost unbearable to me and unacceptable to my family. It may be partially due to an exhaust leak, but I'm certain the majority of it is due to carburation/emissions gear being amiss.
I'm clueless about carbs and emissions systems for the most part. Can I get a list of recommended carb/emissions install threads here on mud from you folks?
For example, threads like this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/80445-vacuum-line-tips.html
I've taken tons of pictures (here) of the current setup. My basic plan is:
1) Verify that the air cleaner assembly I have fits the new carb correctly (it does NOT fit the carb that's there now because I beleive the carb is 1976 and the air cleaner is original (78))
2) If the air cleaner fits, clean it and get it sand blasted and powder coated. Get new stickers for it. Try to find vacuum hose clamps and snorkel that match.
3) Pull *everything* off; all vacuum hoses, high-alt thingy, etc...
4) Source new vacuum hoses, fuel line, etc...
5) Hook all the new stuff up to the new carb.
Of course #5 is nothing but a bit hand wave at this point... and this is where I need the most help.
Thanks in advance everyone!
You'll recall that as I've fixed this rig up I've discovered (links to posts within this thread);
The carb on this rig is a '76. Somewhere along the line someone put a webber on it and then replaced that with a carb from a '76. As a result the emissions stuff is really screwy and the air cleaner does not fit correctly.
The rig has the optional high-altitude system on it.
The rig stinks of fuel when driving. It's almost unbearable to me and unacceptable to my family. It may be partially due to an exhaust leak, but I'm certain the majority of it is due to carburation/emissions gear being amiss.
I'm clueless about carbs and emissions systems for the most part. Can I get a list of recommended carb/emissions install threads here on mud from you folks?
For example, threads like this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/80445-vacuum-line-tips.html
I've taken tons of pictures (here) of the current setup. My basic plan is:
1) Verify that the air cleaner assembly I have fits the new carb correctly (it does NOT fit the carb that's there now because I beleive the carb is 1976 and the air cleaner is original (78))
2) If the air cleaner fits, clean it and get it sand blasted and powder coated. Get new stickers for it. Try to find vacuum hose clamps and snorkel that match.
3) Pull *everything* off; all vacuum hoses, high-alt thingy, etc...
4) Source new vacuum hoses, fuel line, etc...
5) Hook all the new stuff up to the new carb.
Of course #5 is nothing but a bit hand wave at this point... and this is where I need the most help.
Thanks in advance everyone!
