Transfer Case Help - Update (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Threads
35
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153
Location
Annapolis
94 LC with 268K
I need help identifying if the transfer case is shot or the transmission.

Transfer case in High - transmission in DRIVE or REVERSE, it barley moves with lots of noise coming from the transfer case. Truck does not hold in park, slowly moves any direction (driveway has very slightly incline)

Transfer case in Low - transmission in all gears the truck moves like it should with no problems.

I’m thinking that the transfer case High is shot.
 
Make sure your shift lever is fully going forward, and engaging 4H.

Time to pull the drain plug and look for metal shavings on the magnet. Pull the fill plug first to make sure you can fill it.
 
Typical symptoms of stripped drive flanges. Many posts on the subject you can search for.
This.

Neither transmission or Tcase. Most likely stripped drive flange(s), splines on birfs too....is possible.
 
@NeverFinis "Make sure your shift lever is fully going forward, and engaging 4H."

Its all the way forward in 4H and I'll check the magnetic plug later today. But from the grinding sounds theres metal in there
 
@NeverFinis "Make sure your shift lever is fully going forward, and engaging 4H."

Its all the way forward in 4H and I'll check the magnetic plug later today. But from the grinding sounds theres metal in there
Please read post #3.
 
As advised above....THREE times now. Look at your drive flanges and birf splines before assuming Transmission or Tcase issues.

The Tcase is very robust and rarely the problem. If the transmission has not previously given you warning signs....then its not likely the culprit either.

When a drive flange strips the power will 'bias' (not exactly accurate) to the front diff. Your vehicle also will not hold in 'Park' for the same reason. When you shift the Tcase to 4 low the center diff locks (forcing equal power and rotation speed to both front and rear diffs). *Unless you have a Pin 7 mod.

So please look at your drive flanges. Your vehicle 'symptoms' are classic.
 
As above.
Pull the hub caps and dust cover off of the front axles. Have someone watch while you put her into D. You are looking for the outer axle(CV, birfield). If the axle spins without the wheel turning then the drive flange and axle are stripped or something is broken.
Depending on what's happening you can still drive if in Low or you have added the Cdl in high switch. Hell you can even pull a bad CV and still drive if required. Just stuff a rag or whatever in the hole.
 
Thank you all for the correct path to check the drive flanges and birf splines, hope the birf splines are not damage. I'll keep you all posted
 
As above.
Pull the hub caps and dust cover off of the front axles. Have someone watch while you put her into D. You are looking for the outer axle(CV, birfield). If the axle spins without the wheel turning then the drive flange and axle are stripped or something is broken.
Depending on what's happening you can still drive if in Low or you have added the Cdl in high switch. Hell you can even pull a bad CV and still drive if required. Just stuff a rag or whatever in the hole.


 
Update the drive flange is stripped. Hopeing I can get a 95-98 flange as a temp fix until I can get it to the garage.

IMG_3900.jpg
 
Glad you figured it out. Now's a good time to upgrade to the later (longer spline) CV joints (and flanges) on both sides.
 
Glad you figured it out. Now's a good time to upgrade to the later (longer spline) CV joints (and flanges) on both sides.
94s have the longer splines and drive flanges.
91-92 and some 93s have the shorter ones.
 
Update the drive flange is stripped. Hopeing I can get a 95-98 flange as a temp fix until I can get it to the garage.
With the key in the ON position, or with the engine running, shift the transfer case into low range. This will lock the center diff and you should see the dash lamp illuminate. Pull the 30 amp DIFF fuse by the driver's left knee. Shift back into high range and the CDL will stay locked and you can drive normally.

1707601668873.png
 
With the key in the ON position, or with the engine running, shift the transfer case into low range. This will lock the center diff and you should see the dash lamp illuminate. Pull the 30 amp DIFF fuse by the driver's left knee. Shift back into high range and the CDL will stay locked and you can drive normally.

View attachment 3555197

Best to remove both the stripped drive flanges, and the front driveshaft.

20-30 minutes or so to do all that, and you have a rear wheel drive landcruiser
 
Update the drive flange is stripped. Hopeing I can get a 95-98 flange as a temp fix until I can get it to the garage.

View attachment 3555079
If you're in Annapolis as your sig indicates, I have my old take off's when I did my axle upgrade last fall. I'll PM you my cell, feel free to hit me up for them and I'll hook you up!
 
If you're in Annapolis as your sig indicates, I have my old take off's when I did my axle upgrade last fall. I'll PM you my cell, feel free to hit me up for them and I'll hook you up!
I'm still in that area
 

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