Here we go! 
Trail Pig (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SKULLYOTA
- Start date
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Or borrow this one instead.
npulver
Metal Messager
I might, or might not have a 400 flexplate laying around i would donate to the cause!
I think the scat 383 package is about 500 bucks. Doesn't include a cam or intake. I just picked up a older crate sbc from a friend an I think I'm going to stroke it.
I always wanted to build a 383. Here's a few more books on the subject. Yeah, I like to read.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Make sure you study what Clarence Carter has to say about Strokin':
- Thread starter
- #48
Well, made some progress during my short hiatus from work with our new baby.
Front suspension is done, shackle reverse SUA with some off-brand 4" lift Toyota pickup rear springs. square u-bolts for rock clearance.
Front suspension is done, shackle reverse SUA with some off-brand 4" lift Toyota pickup rear springs. square u-bolts for rock clearance.
- Thread starter
- #49
Also mounted the engine, I went with the Trans-Dapt mounts. I need to make some UHMW pucks to space them just a tad higher. I worry about the low lift causing interference with the driveshaft and engine oil pan and trans pan
- Thread starter
- #50
Hooked up an unknown year Quadrajet and some generic Mr. Gasket throttle cable and brackets
Ignore the zip-tied kickdown cable linkage. :/
Also scored a used B&M Unimatic, I couldn't live with the T-handle and had to throw it away in favor of a regular ball knob from my parts bin.
Ignore the zip-tied kickdown cable linkage. :/
Also scored a used B&M Unimatic, I couldn't live with the T-handle and had to throw it away in favor of a regular ball knob from my parts bin.
- Thread starter
- #51
Finally, scored the set of Humvee 37" BFG Baja T/A's (well used unfortunately, but they were cheap). Going to mount them on a set of ancient 16.5" slot mags (for now). I am already thinking on ditching the JT GM front disc brake kit in favor of Mini-truck hardware to get the bigger spindle and wheel bearings.
I trimmed the front fenders accordingly
I trimmed the front fenders accordingly
- Thread starter
- #53
I used the blue book on the right to build my 350, highly recommend it.
Hmmmmm.....
- Thread starter
- #55
I would recommend replacing the Trans-dapt rubber bushing entirely. If they haven't changed in the last 15 years or so, it is pure garbage and will collapse in a hurry
I used a set for my old FJ40 with 5.0L TBI to "save" money over the Advanced Adapter ones. Within a year, I spent my "saved" $50 buying Advanced Adapter bushings
I may end up replacing them with Poly. I had a set of Energy Suspension transfer case mount bushings for a ford bronco or something once, they looked almost identical to the AA rubbers. I might try to find some more of those. It depends what end up doing for a t-case/doubler cross member
Good progress, but how did you get any work done with a new baby and congratulations! I'm going to say a Tote Gote is the cool looking mini bike thing.
- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks, it's easy to get a bit of time in during the kids' naptimes and evenings. Just have to plan for times when I need to use loud tools.
And yeah, the tote gote is the mini bike by my lathe. They are slow, loud, and will climb anything. like a pig.
- Thread starter
- #59
Been researching the enormous wiring job I'll have to do, since I removed all factory and PO wiring. When the pig was last running, it was a hazardous combo of worn factory wiring/drunken PO butchery on the factory fuse panel, and what I could rewire and isolate on a separate panel.....it sucked.
Aside from paying $$$ for a complete Summit or Painless kit, I found some good diagrams on the web. I'll be using a 12si GM alternator, HEI, a stand-alone headlight harness with relays (not sure the brand I have) and a Union Pacific universal turn signal switch.
Been thinking about this fuse block portion first, is it a good idea to wire the alternator BATT terminal thru a fuse block instead of right to the battery? Thoughts? Like this Painless block? Would the wire be heavy enough for a 100amp alt?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30001/overview/
I would also have to disable the flashers to use the Union Pacific turn signal switch I already have:
Or I found some good generic hot rod diagrams:
Which I could build using a cheapo 12 circuit panel and jumper wires:
Right now I'm leaning toward:
-wiring the alternator to the battery directly, with a circuit breaker
-using the last diagram with the 12 circuit panel
-Engine/starter/headlights/turn signals/whatever's left as it fits with what I have
I'm not hip enough for the big Ultra4 switch panel look either.
Aside from paying $$$ for a complete Summit or Painless kit, I found some good diagrams on the web. I'll be using a 12si GM alternator, HEI, a stand-alone headlight harness with relays (not sure the brand I have) and a Union Pacific universal turn signal switch.
Been thinking about this fuse block portion first, is it a good idea to wire the alternator BATT terminal thru a fuse block instead of right to the battery? Thoughts? Like this Painless block? Would the wire be heavy enough for a 100amp alt?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30001/overview/
I would also have to disable the flashers to use the Union Pacific turn signal switch I already have:
Or I found some good generic hot rod diagrams:
Which I could build using a cheapo 12 circuit panel and jumper wires:
Right now I'm leaning toward:
-wiring the alternator to the battery directly, with a circuit breaker
-using the last diagram with the 12 circuit panel
-Engine/starter/headlights/turn signals/whatever's left as it fits with what I have
I'm not hip enough for the big Ultra4 switch panel look either.
