Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)

[bluehawk]

SHE LIVES !!!!!

Added a another ground from frame to the motor mount. Started right up. Will add a few more grounds later, pleased that it started. Had a huge water leak. Easy fix, was a hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump. Also had to tighten up a PS line that was loose

 

[cruisermatt]

Awesome! There always seems to be a couple hoses and lines loose that get missed when you do everything all at once.

 

[hj 60]

Congratulations, it sounds very healthy, the HJ also has one ground especially for the starter, and one from - to cab, and one from - to engine.

I dont know if this cable is original?

 

[Pacer]

I agree, can't have too many grounds.
You got the spark at the fender because the battery was trying to complete the circuit and couldn't through the motor and trans mounts.

I ran my second battery ground cable straight to a starter bolt on the flywheel housing and from there branch off to the frame, body and trans.

Give that starter every possible advantage.
I even sanded and cleaned all the mating surfaces when I replaced the starter last.

Congratulations on the startup!
Now, finish EVERYTHING before registering it.

 

[cruisedeisel]

I even grounded my side posts on my batteries.

Better faster starting.

 

[doug720]

The Ford style relay is used to protect the stock Toyota ignition key switch and wiring. The Isuzu starter trigger amperage is considerably higher than the 2F's. The extra load can burn out the key switch wiring. I was told this by flcruiser when I did my swap. His burnt out. Most of the Isuzu into LC's have used a relay in the circuit.

The Ford relay, which are very common and cheap, is added to the small wire that goes from the key switch to starter. Mount and ground the relay, connect the stock wire to the small post on the relay, run a #10 or larger wire from the battery with a fuse or circuit breaker to one of the large posts on the relay, connect another #10+ wire from the second large relay post to the starter. That's it.

The Ford relay is $8-15.00.

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks Doug.

Had a set back today. It seems like it isn't getting fuel. Turns over and over and then coughs once but does not start. There is fuel in the clear filter on the fire wall. Had to hand pump it from the tank with the primer on the filter. Tried to pull fuel from there to the injection pump using the priming pump. Same outcome as described.

Doug, did you use a stock Toyota sending unit, and if so did you modify it?

 

[doug720]

I used all stock Toyota sending units.

The stock fuel tank has a sock/screen/filter over the pickup end. Gas can leave a varnish like residue in the tank, which modern diesel fuel will dissolve.

It may be that you have a fitting or connection between the filter and the IP that is allowing the pump to loose prime. Check the connections carefully - especially hose clamps on rubber hose. I used double clamps on mine. On my new engine, I'm going to run as much hard line as possible and use AN style fittings and hose from the filter to the IP.

 

[bluehawk]

Tank was cut apart and blasted. Then welded back together and sealed. All new Toyota sending unit and pick-up tubes. I read somewhere in your post that you had to punch a hole in the gas cap. I think that I'll try and start it again with the cap off and see if that helps. If so, then I know that I'll have to vent the cap. Been re-reading your thread today. Think I'll take her to the muffler shop next week. Then a test drive !!!!

 

[doug720]

Could be the cap. Did you remove the fuel vapor collector/separator in the rear passenger 1/4 panel? I did and redid my vent system and added a Toyota diesel fuel cap. They are vented and most importantly...Say "Diesel" and Toyota on them! Plus they are like $14.00

Nice work and waiting for the test drive post

 

[bluehawk]

Yes all of the items are removed from the quarter panel. I only have the main fuel tube, over flow tube, and a vent tube. The cap is a new one from CruiserCorps.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Congrats!!!

 

[bluehawk]

Well got it running better today. Went back and primed the injection pump, now it starts every time. Have a small water leak. It is drippin from the bottom of the crank pully. I can't tell where it is for sure coming from. Might be the water pump. Don't remember if I put a new pump on or not. Does any know if it would leak water from behind the timing cover anywhere?

 

[doug720]

I cant think of anything leaking on the timing cover, but the water pump has a weep hole.

 

[hj 60]

Get some last guts and enjoyment to end your project and fix the waterpump , I have this but it is for hj60:

 

[bluehawk]

I cant think of anything leaking on the timing cover, but the water pump has a weep hole.

Get some last guts and enjoyment to end your project and fix the waterpump , I have this but it is for hj60:

Thanks guys. I think it's off to the muffler shop Thursday and then a good test drive. Doug, will the leak from the weep hole stop or will it just keep on weeping?

 

[doug720]

The weep hole is common to most water pumps and is there to indicate the seal has failed...

Is it a new water pump? If not, it may not stop.

 

[bluehawk]

New water pump on but has the wrong spigot in it. It came with a t-spigot and it is the one I need in there. Any idea on how to get these dang things out?

 

[bluehawk]

Didn't get the spigots changed out but hooked up enough to get her outside for the first time in three years

 

[HoJo 61]