A bad master cylinder, or just plain old lack of use.
Crack open a blender screw on any caliper/cylinder and see if they free up.
They may be under pressure and piss all over your shop floor.
Let us know what happens after that and go from there...
Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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Crack open a blender screw on any caliper/cylinder and see if they free up.
They may be under pressure and piss all over your shop floor.
Let us know what happens after that and go from there...
- Thread starter
- #642
Will do, thanks Pacer...
Fixing the last problems just comes with it, must work out fine! good luck 
mud welcome and mud encouragement looks the same 
If brakes are binding sometimes old rubber hose can release a rubber flake inside and keep the pressure with that blocking.
Can you isolate the side that is sticking? : front disk caliper with rubber hose or rear drum cylinder with return spring?
Disk calipers can stick if pitted/dirty and worn rubber O-rings, rear drum mostly because a spring is wrong mounted?
Master cylinder near pedal mostly leaks after long time no use, fail in power brake vacuum booster?
is it pulling to one side?
chassis body BR-5 (page 241) shows adjustment of pedal and pushrod and some tests.
good info, if all 4 are sticking it must be the adjustment of the pushrod:
Brakes still randomly build pressure to cause undrivable dragging, everything replace
mud welcome and mud encouragement looks the same If brakes are binding sometimes old rubber hose can release a rubber flake inside and keep the pressure with that blocking.
Can you isolate the side that is sticking? : front disk caliper with rubber hose or rear drum cylinder with return spring?
Disk calipers can stick if pitted/dirty and worn rubber O-rings, rear drum mostly because a spring is wrong mounted?
Master cylinder near pedal mostly leaks after long time no use, fail in power brake vacuum booster?
is it pulling to one side?
chassis body BR-5 (page 241) shows adjustment of pedal and pushrod and some tests.
good info, if all 4 are sticking it must be the adjustment of the pushrod:
Brakes still randomly build pressure to cause undrivable dragging, everything replace
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Fixing the last problems just comes with it, must work out fine! good luck
If brakes snip...
good info, if all 4 are sticking it must be the adjustment of the pushrod:
Brakes still randomly build pressure to cause undrivable dragging, everything replace
I really like the tail end of this post and think this may be your culprit given what you've told us.
- Thread starter
- #645
Another round of test drives after the alignment Monday.
NEW: new steel brake lines along the frame
new lines to the calipers
new calipers & rotors
rear disc brake conversion.
old master cylinder
After cracking the bleeder screw on front passenger side, wheels spun freely. Same for the rear. After a few speeds around 20 and seating the brakes, it will bark the tires. Back in the shop on the lift, brakes binding again. Bled the lines again. Spun freely.
After Alignment:
the really bad shake in the steering wheel is gone
some drive line vibrations
noise in the transmission area still
Here might be the problem: When I did the very first test run in the engine, I hadn't put any oil in the transmission. Only run it twice like this and only around 30 seconds each time. Maybe I screwed up the transmission? Any ideas?
NEW: new steel brake lines along the frame
new lines to the calipers
new calipers & rotors
rear disc brake conversion.
old master cylinder
After cracking the bleeder screw on front passenger side, wheels spun freely. Same for the rear. After a few speeds around 20 and seating the brakes, it will bark the tires. Back in the shop on the lift, brakes binding again. Bled the lines again. Spun freely.
After Alignment:
the really bad shake in the steering wheel is gone
some drive line vibrations
noise in the transmission area still
Here might be the problem: When I did the very first test run in the engine, I hadn't put any oil in the transmission. Only run it twice like this and only around 30 seconds each time. Maybe I screwed up the transmission? Any ideas?
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- Thread starter
- #646
Here is how the front end alignment looked
After the C&T, I'm about 1.8 degrees off on the caster. Think this is my shake?
After the C&T, I'm about 1.8 degrees off on the caster. Think this is my shake?
- Thread starter
- #647
Just remembered that I am running the stock alternator for the Isuzu. It has a boost line that runs to brake booster.
The stock Isuzu alt. has a vacuum pump built into it and it is providing vacuum to your brake booster. This should be fine.
The caster is what it is now, and I do not feel is contributing to your vibes.
You gotta solve the brakes binding up.
Check the push rod adjustment ^^^
Does the cruiser coast at all when you disengage the clutch?
How much fluid came out when you cracked the bleeder?
Can you check rotor/drum temp with an infrared thermometer and see if one in particular is causing issues?
Trans noise: I have not been paying enough attention to help you solve yet...
The Isuzu alt vacuum pump has higher vacuum then the 2f made, at least on mine it does. This helps the brakes.
By chance, could the brakes lines on the MC be reversed? Drum brakes require a residual valve in the master cylinder to keep the wheel cylinders open. This would create brake drag.
On the trans, is it a brand new unit? It's not good, but doubt it really hurt it in 30 seconds.
By chance, could the brakes lines on the MC be reversed? Drum brakes require a residual valve in the master cylinder to keep the wheel cylinders open. This would create brake drag.
On the trans, is it a brand new unit? It's not good, but doubt it really hurt it in 30 seconds.
- Thread starter
- #650
I will get on the push-rod adjustment this weekend
Don't think there was a lot of fluid that came out. It didn't squirt out with force or anything.
It coasts pretty good in neutral with noticeable sound in the front end area. It may not be the trans, it might be in the clutch/flywheel area
I'll check the lines at the MC.
The trans in not new, got it from GLTH60 (Johnny)
- Thread starter
- #651
So I've got a Haynes manual and nothing in there about adjusting the brake push rod. Tried looking in the facts section for FSM, didn't really find anything there either. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #654
So I followed the test of pumping the brakes with the engine off. Held after about 5-6 pumps and started the engine. It didn't fall quickly, seemed extremely slow moving. Guess it's the booster. Gonna be hard to find a new one.
I'm still stuck on push rod.
Did you have the master cylinder out at all while doing the rest of the work?
I believe you have to remove the master to adjust...
Check this before throwing part$ at it.
Did you have the master cylinder out at all while doing the rest of the work?
I believe you have to remove the master to adjust...
Check this before throwing part$ at it.
- Thread starter
- #656
Had to take time away from the brakes. Decided to work on altanator wiring. First two pictures are of Isuzu wiring coming from the back of the alternator. Three wires, one solid black, one small solid white and one small white with blue strip.
I think these are the wires for the Toyota altanator. One large single white wire with round connector. One small yellow and small white with housing
Hopefully these are right for the Toyota wiring. If so, which wires from Isuzu go with the Toyota?
I think these are the wires for the Toyota altanator. One large single white wire with round connector. One small yellow and small white with housing
Hopefully these are right for the Toyota wiring. If so, which wires from Isuzu go with the Toyota?
- Thread starter
- #657
Well had a chance to mess with the brakes today after work with the help of a friend. We adjusted the push rod at the master cylinder and the linkage at the brake pedal. Not much different. They are still binding. The rear brake rotors and even the wheels are getting hot. The front rotors and wheels get hot but not as bad as the rear.
Did a couple of long test drives. One new thing, the turbo gets extremely hot. To the point that it was smoking. Is there any way to check that the cooling lines and oil lines are doing their jobs?
As for the brakes. My friend as a double reservoir MC that I'm going to give a try and see if that changes anything. Also wondering if a portioning valve would change anything?
Did a couple of long test drives. One new thing, the turbo gets extremely hot. To the point that it was smoking. Is there any way to check that the cooling lines and oil lines are doing their jobs?
As for the brakes. My friend as a double reservoir MC that I'm going to give a try and see if that changes anything. Also wondering if a portioning valve would change anything?
Master cylinder should be easy to find. I am running one out of a 94 4runner. The fj80's had a direct bolt in too with a bigger bore for better stopping. I have had to shim master cylinders away from the firewall in order to get the brakes from binding up before on custom setups, never on a cruiser before though.
x2 dirty lines. sometimes a piece big enough to clog the line gets in there some how? New calipers? I have also seen year old calipers seize up before.
I have never taken my truck for an alignment. You can DO THIS!!!
x2 dirty lines. sometimes a piece big enough to clog the line gets in there some how? New calipers? I have also seen year old calipers seize up before.
I have never taken my truck for an alignment. You can DO THIS!!!