Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45 (2 Viewers)

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The paint pole is my makeshift hanger for painting it was sitting there and it was cold outside where there is a spare 2x4
Not much done other than new sway bar bushings installed and rebuilt knuckles
Did get to use some disk backing deletes I picked up.from algazy a while back and the sway bar links from his shop as well
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Decided to drill my bling stainless rdb brackets I've held onto for years waiting on the right project
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I like those stainless steel bolts you used on the frame componets! Bling, Bling Ride!
 
Rear disk, calipers, pads and brackets out of my way and on the truck.
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Need to pull the hub studs and loctite, paint my calipers and front should be ready to build a tie rod
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Rear xmember going on will weld the allen holes shut to look like a rivet
Disregard my grade five holding the pintle will dig in the bolt box later I hate dumping it out so used first avail
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Got a wild hair Jenn was at choir so decided to fix something that has been bothering me for a while
Dug out some ubolt skid plates sitting around and my box of ubolts and fixed the problem will do other side later in the week
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Fixed drivers side with a skidplate and fixed rears with some keyway to keep them straight.
My goal is to get ready for motor drop in mid feb.
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Not much for a weekend. Did mop the garage, knuckle jobs make a mess. Took tires and some other stuff to my snow bird parents garage and built a tie rod.
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Coming next is steering mount. Had to dig out fender, bib, and radiator to mock that up. Dug out a couple ford shock mounts out of the parts pile.
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Trying to line this thing up. This pretty much leaves room for shock mount and clears everything but stabilizer bracket on frame will have to.move. thinking of using Marlin 80 pitman arm and a clamp.collar to set steering stabilizer. Marlin arm will allow me to use 23mm rods but im not there yet. Will see if kurt imports 70 steering ends. If not will probably either reverse 60 relay rod ends or run 80. Any thoughts on alignment before I make a plate for both sides and sleeve it? Back or forwards? It clears the bib needs a spacer to clear radiator.
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Better pic.
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Wish I knew enough to answer your question. Keep up the progress. I am working my buttocks off trying to make sure you don't finish your rig before mine is on the road.

I assume you have found this.....

http://www.menet.umn.edu/~vandeven/ps.htm
 
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Ahh jims rig is where I saw my first proper use of a ball claw axle. A shifter handle made from one of the balls. Jim used scout steering very similar just not what I had lying around im using 60 steering box.
 
Check out the link in my sig line, I have some pictures you could compare. Placement looks pretty good to me, the hole in my pitman arm is almost dead center below the hole in the frame, but I wish it was about 1/4" further forward.

I think a 1/4" plate spacer will be just enough to clear the radiator support.

You might try rotating the box so that it sits more upright. Are you going to sleeve the frame?

Depending on what kind of u-joint you're planning on using, you may have to space the shock tower out as well. Be careful that your u-joint doesn't hit the fender support either.
 
Matt.. (Thank you for chiming in) I had your thread up on the flat screen in the shop to compare.. and read you would have moved it a touch further forward..
Read about every thread on 60 steering and had tons of pictures lying on the floor around me for motivation.
Ujoint is the least of my concerns right now :) I'll either utilize a bunch of left over 60 stuff, or go junkyarding for a different one or go borgeson. Borgeson will be the "thinnest" of all and probably the easiest and safest. Have no column to attach it to yet.. That will be after the drivetrain is in.. Baby steps!

Tad more tilt to stern.. check.. And your statement on the location of the pitman arm hole definately helps me to visualize. Different pictures had different camera angles making it a bit difficult to visualize.

Have the plate and DOM tube awaiting proper placement. I am leary without the drivetrain sitting in it putting weight on the spring. Stupid concern. . I feel like I did when I started my first saginaw conversion MANY MOONS ago with a Wardens plate..
I was leary of even cutting the fender last night.. Just opened a beer, grabbed the grinder and did it. It's only metal.

Once i'm dead set on location i'll make my frame plates, drill for the DOM tube with the drill press. Clamp everything back up, tack, test, remove then burn in. I will always sleeve the frame.. i've seen too many steering boxes break off the frame.

Don't think I can put on shock towers till i have weight in the truck again. And will probably have to do something different on axle mounts, either flip em or build new.

Again.. Thank you.
 
Had to regroup tonight do something to finish up the front axle and since it is over 60 outside and the part I needed was in the pile did that. I had a broken inner hub gear while putting the front axle together so stripped a knuckle off s spare mini axle. Much to.my amazement there wasn't a bit of grease in the knuckle. Someone had even tried to use a zerk as a felt retainer bolt. Wow. Parts are parts tho at least they will be easy to clean before I stick em on the shelf..
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Finally got pass side lockout on
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Erik, if you are concerned about the suspension flexing and moving the location of the shock tower, remember that shocks have bushings that allow a little bit of movement. I understand that you want to optimize the location, but just something to keep in mind. Keep it up!
 

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