This item is no longer available - Cummins 2.8 Install

[Cruiser Jimmy]

@DFXR The 1/8 in. thick panel is a good solution if you plan of keeping the tailgate uncut and not used for storage. It's pretty easy to cut in flat stock form and moulded form. My intended purpose is to fab a lid for the gate for storage purpose.

It is really easy to cut with some sheet metal sheers but put a large radius to it and it becomes a little more difficult, but doable. I then took a circular sanding disc on a die grinder and cleaned up the radius.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Fellas,
I NEED some quick help if you're available today. I'm ready to drive her but my rear drive-shaft length is off by 9/16 of an inch, too long. Not going to go in to history on the parts I've changed over the years. The front DS is able to be used if I want to drive in just front wheel drive but the rear needs to be taken to the shop to be shorten. With it being shorten I will have an 1 inch of travel, shortening. A reduction of 1 9/16 of an inch.

So to double check my work, can someone pull a measurement from yoke end to yoke end on an '85 or above rear DS. Thanks.

And the hood is on.

 

[Output Shaft]

I can't measure mine at the moment, but here's a (not too helpful) picture.

 

[4Cruisers]

I've got 3' - 7 1/2"

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Thanks OS and 4Cruisers, I'm now within spec. My local driveshaft shop turned the resizing around in one day. Surprisingly enough shop's nowadays don't balance the shaft. They got the alignment to within 5 thousands. They said that if the vehicle has a vibration then they take the alignment o 10 thousands to get ride of it. Huhhh!!

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Rear cargo side panels. Fixed mounting currently but plan to have a functional accessible cargo area.

And she is road worthy! Went to the Indy auto show with it yesterday.

My friend and coworker sent some chocolate covered bacon motorcycles my way just in time for Christmas. Yum!!

 

[OGBeno]

Man, that is full on sexy Jimmy.

 

[Spike Strip]

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

BUILD NOTE:
Since the upper cowl was replaced I payed attention to the replacement of the part in terms of sealing that area. As you can imagine the upper and lower areas are equally important because of water and future corrosion. My method was to seam seal the areas the best I could since the opening made it really accessible for your arm to get inside the cowl. With the exception of the brace that you see below everything was sealed up with an acid brush and seam sealer with no difficulty. With the upper cowl on, ever getting an acid brush between the brace areas were difficult. It just didn't have the room for the brush. As a result, while I was driving there was wind coming in to the cab from that area. With the HVAC system off and on RECIR I could feel the cold air coming in. So today I took undercoating and doused the area and run a heat gun to start a drying layer. In hindsight I should have run a bead of seam sealer in that area and let it dry after tacking it in place. Hopefully this note will benefit someone down the road.

Edit: This is weird but the area between that brace and the drivers wiper arm bracket is the place that's letting air pass after studying it more (and running compression air in that area.) It's weird because that area is easily accessible with a brush or you hand. The wiper arm is a little in the way but easily negotiated.

However as a good measure I undercoated the area between the brace and the upper cowl area.

 

[jfnall]

On your headliner... With not having the plastic in the cargo area below the Windows, how did you finish the headliner on the C pillar where is ends at the bottom of the Windows? Any closeup pics?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

On your headliner... With not having the plastic in the cargo area below the Windows, how did you finish the headliner on the C pillar where is ends at the bottom of the Windows? Any closeup pics?

Plan to use some extra Kydex and make a plate to secure that material with those two little holes as screw points.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Rear bumper fabrication day. Got the heavy duty spindles from A-to-Z fabrication.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Very good looking cruiser! The black compliments the tan very nicely.

 

[g-man]

Nice work. Awesome build. Make sure you get your insurance agent to agree to a "stated or agreed value". See my post "wrecked on the interstate"

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Thanks for the compliment fellows. Once all the bumpers get fabbed up the next person that I see is the appraiser and then to my insurance agent.


Bumper fabrication day!!!

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Yay midwest salt and snow! I hate that I just finished a restoration in the middle of the winter.

I'm pretty sure I got one of the last insulators for the 60 in the country!

Ran into a snag with the press break with one of the knife dies. Got it squared away, hopefully I should be welding in next couple hours.

 

[OGBeno]

Insulators are still available.

 

[gregnash]

Insulators are still available.

I am kinda scared to see how much they cost though.

 

[OGBeno]

I am kinda scared to see how much they cost though.

Yes, they are not for the faint of heart.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Great Thread!

I had avoided this one until now because the title led me to believe it was another lamentation about discontinued Toyota parts . My loss obviously 'cause there is some great tech in here and you've done a really stellar job bringing that cruiser back to life.

Sorry if I missed it but what did you use for paint? Single stage or color/clear? Looks great.

Also, interested why you went with Kydex? I don't know anything about it. I fabbed similar rear quarter panels out of 1/8" ABS but I'm wondering if should have investigated this product.

Keep it coming!

Cheers
-Ed