These 16" wheels will work and they look great, but...

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But the outer measurements for the clips for the hubcaps are 11 5/8". There's no way to get the OEM Toyota hubcaps on these is there?? I'm looking for 16" wheels that are wider than the 5.5" that the City Racers have. 7" would be preferable but I'd go as narrow as 6". 5.5" on 255/85/16 (33x10x16) is not where I want to live! Danke schön!
 
City racer sells just the clips. Might be possible to drill and bolt the clips on.

I’ve got the slightly more narrow 235/85R16 on my cityracer wheels.
 
Cut the inner part of the cap made for those wheels and weld ( or glue or srew) it to the back of the toyota hubcaps ,
Not able to picture what you're recommending. Are you saying cut off the flange on the wheel? The "nubs" are where the hubs attach to I believe. Cut the entire flange where the 4 nubs reside?
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But the outer measurements for the clips for the hubcaps are 11 5/8". There's no way to get the OEM Toyota hubcaps on these is there?? I'm looking for 16" wheels that are wider than the 5.5" that the City Racers have. 7" would be preferable but I'd go as narrow as 6". 5.5" on 255/85/16 (33x10x16) is not where I want to live! Danke schön!

An Aussie Mudder suggested this:

PS. Got a set of four for my 40-Series, quality as expected!
 
Fifteen 52 wheels. Clips added IOT run the OE hubcap. Installation by RCLC @Jdc1. Three colors available. I went with the 16” flavor. Running a 285-75 R16 Tire.

Edit. Grey is currently sold out. Black is available.


IMG_3610.webp


IMG_3611.webp
 
Not able to picture what you're recommending. Are you saying cut off the flange on the wheel? The "nubs" are where the hubs attach to I believe. Cut the entire flange where the 4 nubs reside?View attachment 4176985

Several years ago a member found a set of cheap hub caps that fit the aftermarket wheel nubs, then adapted those hub caps to fit inside the stock Toyota hub cap. You would have to search for the post here or on the internet.
 
Here ya go. It's post #57 in this thread. It looks like @luckynb hasn't been here for couple of years.
 
Not able to picture what you're recommending. Are you saying cut off the flange on the wheel? The "nubs" are where the hubs attach to I believe. Cut the entire flange where the 4 nubs reside?View attachment 4176985


No , just modify the cap not the wheels
Can't find the thread that shows how to do it , but post #20 of this thread show a modified hubcap to fit on custom wheels

 
Here ya go. It's post #57 in this thread. It looks like @luckynb hasn't been here for couple of years.


That is what im talking about 👍
 
Alright fellas! First and foremost, I want to thank everyone for their input! Did a lot of research and helped formed my decision to go with an aluminum wheel that is wider than 6". Actually settled on 7" to keep the narrow profile without the tires bulging out at the sidewall. I have it narrowed down to the Fifteen52 Analogs that Chungas posted a pic of and the Nomad 504 Field. Both are made of aluminum: the Analogs being cast aluminum, and the 504s being Formlite, which is a hybrid cast/forged wheel. The 504s have Nomad labeled look-a-like hubs but that's not a deal breaker. The Analogs require drilling and tapping, and requires purchase of tabs and hubs. But I can get OEM hubs. Price for each option is similar.

All that said, the 504s lead due ti the Formlite process. That overrides the negatives.
 
Update on my wheels and tires:

I've been waiting for Nomad to restock the 504 Fields in satin black, 16"x7". They are still a couple weeks out. However, they have 16"x8" wide wheels available. Should wait for the 7" or go 8"? Is the extra inch of width going to make it look different? I thought it might "flatten" the sidewall a bit, but as long as it doesn't lose any diameter height, I'd be fine with it.
 
I currently run stk steelies with a 35 and 33-10.50's and they're OK. I've run 15x8 wheels in the past with 36-12.50's and will likely be running 15x8's with a 35-12.50 with about a 3.75" or 3.5" offset in the future. In my experience, The side walls usually are slightly proud of the 1/4 panel and tend to tuck inside the fenderwell on compression. This seems to help keep the 1/4 panel out of harms way in certain situations. The added width adds to stability. The tread tends to stay under the fenderwell. I would not run 10.50's with an 8" wheel. I like to squeeze the bead on the wheel. Your results may be different. I run a 4" lift.
 
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