The TexaCali 45 Emprise—Dani California Rising
- Thread starter MadMace
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Always amazed that these stickers survive 50 plus years. Some of the aftermarket bumpers back in the day covered the rear sill and preserved the sticker!
@MadMace if you decide you want a new rear Toyota sticker just let me know. I had a stack made up a year or so ago.
Have we seen anywhere what is the original paint color? Maybe I missed it.
MadMace
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #85
Her original color is Lily White (T-403). I was thinking about trying to recover it but I am very quickly changing my mind. My son's favorite color is green and the green that is on Dani is quite pretty when polished up (I'll include a picture later). The hard part is going to be matching the green--but I am sure it can be done.
I'll be taking a bunch of pictures later this week so we can really start getting into the tech portion of this thread.
Nice 45 and great trip documentation. I have enjoyed following your thread.
You don’t have to keep it technical in the “45 Clubhouse “.......I’m just sayin’
You don’t have to keep it technical in the “45 Clubhouse “.......I’m just sayin’
MadMace
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #89
Let’s get some pics and tech going. Starting with the engine and engine bay. She is numbers matching. Missing, amongst other things, radiator, oil filter canister (got one form @kevos37), air filter housing, oil fill cap. I have the radiator I took out of our 40 that will do to get her running.
She does have a generator vs an alternator.
I love this font.
She does have a generator vs an alternator.
I love this font.
MadMace
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #90
@whitey45 tried to get her engine to turn over when we were there but she was locked up.
As soon as we got home, we pulled the plugs and flooded the cylinders with PB Blaster. Okay, I know everybody has different opinions about what to use to free the piston rings. MMO, ATF, diesel, WD-40, pixie dust, gypsy tears...you name it. PB Blaster has always seemed to win the day here. Yes, it stinks but it works as long as you give it time to work.
So, she was locked up pretty good. Well, after 2 days with PB Blaster down the cylinders, we are now able to turn the engine over without difficulty.
Now, we’ll get some MMO in there to get things lubricated as PB Blaster isn’t as good a lubricator.
As soon as we got home, we pulled the plugs and flooded the cylinders with PB Blaster. Okay, I know everybody has different opinions about what to use to free the piston rings. MMO, ATF, diesel, WD-40, pixie dust, gypsy tears...you name it. PB Blaster has always seemed to win the day here. Yes, it stinks but it works as long as you give it time to work.
So, she was locked up pretty good. Well, after 2 days with PB Blaster down the cylinders, we are now able to turn the engine over without difficulty.
Now, we’ll get some MMO in there to get things lubricated as PB Blaster isn’t as good a lubricator.
Dean,
I was just thinking, with the crusty valvetrain, maybe vacuum it as well as you can. Then pull the drain plug, and then maybe flush the valvetrain with diesel. It can run down the oil drains into the pan and clean out all the crusty bits? Maybe avoid pulling the pan nonsense!
I was just thinking, with the crusty valvetrain, maybe vacuum it as well as you can. Then pull the drain plug, and then maybe flush the valvetrain with diesel. It can run down the oil drains into the pan and clean out all the crusty bits? Maybe avoid pulling the pan nonsense!
It looks like your good to go with the correct voltage regulator for that generator too!
Diesel flush - old school trick!
MadMace
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #93
Will do. What I’ll do is remove the valve train, give it a good cleaning and lubing then, as much as possible, clean all the crustys and chunks from the head. Followed by a diesel dousing.
Should I let the diesel sit for a while in the pan or just do it as a straight flush?
Fill, drain , fill drain, flush, flush....
MadMace
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #95
Today’s task—drain old oil, pull valve cover and valve train.
Nothing is ever easy; drain plug FUBARd so had to lightly grind down the uneven sides to square it off. Was able to finally get it off. Oil looked like ten year old .05 milk shake—gross.
Valve train caked with crud
Head without valve train pre and post light cleaning (still a lot of cleaning to do)
Finished the night by pouring several gallons of diesel into the oil full tube. Gonna let that baste in there for a day or so. Will then scrape as much of the caked on crap from the head as possible then pour some diesel over it to get the drain holes clear.
Nothing is ever easy; drain plug FUBARd so had to lightly grind down the uneven sides to square it off. Was able to finally get it off. Oil looked like ten year old .05 milk shake—gross.
Valve train caked with crud
Head without valve train pre and post light cleaning (still a lot of cleaning to do)
Finished the night by pouring several gallons of diesel into the oil full tube. Gonna let that baste in there for a day or so. Will then scrape as much of the caked on crap from the head as possible then pour some diesel over it to get the drain holes clear.
Congrats, I started with a similar yet slightly worse motor three months or so ago (middle three piston sleeves had rust under the rings locking it solid). It now starts (and drives) at the flick of the key.
Pull the side cover also, you will find a ton of crud/sludge/whatever build-up in there. Keep washing with diesel as you are, but pour it from the top through the head oil return ports to wash as much as possible off. Diesel or ATF in the spark plug holes will not hurt either.
I then went to town with good ol' 3 in 1 oil on the rockers, oiling tube and lifters to really wash them out.
Then I assembled the valvetrain components with engine assembly lube/molyblendium disulfate paste, oiled the distributor shaft and plate best I could, drained the concoction in the pan out, fill with diesel again and start turning the motor with the starter without plugs to get things moving again.
Drain again, fill with a good cleaning lighter weight oil (I prefer Caltex' Delo 400 MGX), connect your oil filter that's missing, get spark, pour some gas down the carburetor (after disconnecting fuel lines) and she might just fire up on you as mine did.
I don't know see a oil fill cap. I see the oil fill tube used until the 72 model moved it to the valve cover.