The TexaCali 45 Emprise—Dani California Rising

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Drivers side, below tailgate...,

I spy with my little eye...

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Don’t see it, okay how about now?

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Still no, okay, maybe now?

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Vanna, could I have a “Y” please?

To be continued...
 
Have we seen anywhere what is the original paint color? Maybe I missed it.
 
middlecalf said:
Have we seen anywhere what is the original paint color? Maybe I missed it.
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Her original color is Lily White (T-403). I was thinking about trying to recover it but I am very quickly changing my mind. My son's favorite color is green and the green that is on Dani is quite pretty when polished up (I'll include a picture later). The hard part is going to be matching the green--but I am sure it can be done.

I'll be taking a bunch of pictures later this week so we can really start getting into the tech portion of this thread.
 
Nice 45 and great trip documentation. I have enjoyed following your thread.

You don’t have to keep it technical in the “45 Clubhouse “.......I’m just sayin’
 
MadMace said:
When I saw them in pictures being used to tie down M1 Abrams tanks on C-17s I figured they’d be more than adequate, especially with 4 of them. Only disadvantage is they are heavy—but their robustness is what makes them so secure. Super easy to adjust with the tightening ring.
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Yes, great chains that hold well. Gave me flashbacks to "chain watch" on the flight deck during a 6-month deployment.
 
Let’s get some pics and tech going. Starting with the engine and engine bay. She is numbers matching. Missing, amongst other things, radiator, oil filter canister (got one form @kevos37), air filter housing, oil fill cap. I have the radiator I took out of our 40 that will do to get her running.

She does have a generator vs an alternator.

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I love this font.
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@whitey45 tried to get her engine to turn over when we were there but she was locked up.

As soon as we got home, we pulled the plugs and flooded the cylinders with PB Blaster. Okay, I know everybody has different opinions about what to use to free the piston rings. MMO, ATF, diesel, WD-40, pixie dust, gypsy tears...you name it. PB Blaster has always seemed to win the day here. Yes, it stinks but it works as long as you give it time to work.

So, she was locked up pretty good. Well, after 2 days with PB Blaster down the cylinders, we are now able to turn the engine over without difficulty.

Now, we’ll get some MMO in there to get things lubricated as PB Blaster isn’t as good a lubricator.

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Dean,

I was just thinking, with the crusty valvetrain, maybe vacuum it as well as you can. Then pull the drain plug, and then maybe flush the valvetrain with diesel. It can run down the oil drains into the pan and clean out all the crusty bits? Maybe avoid pulling the pan nonsense!
 
MadMace said:
She does have a generator vs an alternator.
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It looks like your good to go with the correct voltage regulator for that generator too!

Diesel flush - old school trick!
 
whitey45 said:
Dean,

I was just thinking, with the crusty valvetrain, maybe vacuum it as well as you can. Then pull the drain plug, and then maybe flush the valvetrain with diesel. It can run down the oil drains into the pan and clean out all the crusty bits? Maybe avoid pulling the pan nonsense!
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Will do. What I’ll do is remove the valve train, give it a good cleaning and lubing then, as much as possible, clean all the crustys and chunks from the head. Followed by a diesel dousing.

Should I let the diesel sit for a while in the pan or just do it as a straight flush?
 
Today’s task—drain old oil, pull valve cover and valve train.

Nothing is ever easy; drain plug FUBARd so had to lightly grind down the uneven sides to square it off. Was able to finally get it off. Oil looked like ten year old .05 milk shake—gross.
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Valve train caked with crud
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Head without valve train pre and post light cleaning (still a lot of cleaning to do)

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Finished the night by pouring several gallons of diesel into the oil full tube. Gonna let that baste in there for a day or so. Will then scrape as much of the caked on crap from the head as possible then pour some diesel over it to get the drain holes clear.
 
MadMace said:
Today’s task—drain old oil, pull valve cover and valve train.

Nothing is ever easy; drain plug FUBARd so had to lightly grind down the uneven sides to square it off. Was able to finally get it off. Oil looked like ten year old .05 milk shake—gross.
View attachment 2700521

Valve train caked with crud
View attachment 2700527
View attachment 2700528

Head without valve train pre and post light cleaning (still a lot of cleaning to do)

View attachment 2700552View attachment 2700551

Finished the night by pouring several gallons of diesel into the oil full tube. Gonna let that baste in there for a day or so. Will then scrape as much of the caked on crap from the head as possible then pour some diesel over it to get the drain holes clear.
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Congrats, I started with a similar yet slightly worse motor three months or so ago (middle three piston sleeves had rust under the rings locking it solid). It now starts (and drives) at the flick of the key.

Pull the side cover also, you will find a ton of crud/sludge/whatever build-up in there. Keep washing with diesel as you are, but pour it from the top through the head oil return ports to wash as much as possible off. Diesel or ATF in the spark plug holes will not hurt either.

I then went to town with good ol' 3 in 1 oil on the rockers, oiling tube and lifters to really wash them out.

Then I assembled the valvetrain components with engine assembly lube/molyblendium disulfate paste, oiled the distributor shaft and plate best I could, drained the concoction in the pan out, fill with diesel again and start turning the motor with the starter without plugs to get things moving again.

Drain again, fill with a good cleaning lighter weight oil (I prefer Caltex' Delo 400 MGX), connect your oil filter that's missing, get spark, pour some gas down the carburetor (after disconnecting fuel lines) and she might just fire up on you as mine did.
 
locklaw said:
Congrats, I started with a similar yet slightly worse motor three months or so ago (middle three piston sleeves had rust under the rings locking it solid). It now starts (and drives) at the flick of the key.

Pull the side cover also, you will find a ton of crud/sludge/whatever build-up in there. Keep washing with diesel as you are, but pour it from the top through the head oil return ports to wash as much as possible off. Diesel or ATF in the spark plug holes will not hurt either.

I then went to town with good ol' 3 in 1 oil on the rockers, oiling tube and lifters to really wash them out.

Then I assembled the valvetrain components with engine assembly lube/molyblendium disulfate paste, oiled the distributor shaft and plate best I could, drained the concoction in the pan out, fill with diesel again and start turning the motor with the starter without plugs to get things moving again.

Drain again, fill with a good cleaning lighter weight oil (I prefer Caltex' Delo 400 MGX), connect your oil filter that's missing, get spark, pour some gas down the carburetor (after disconnecting fuel lines) and she might just fire up on you as mine did.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for all the good information and suggestions. Please keep them coming, I need all the help that I can get.
 
Nice to see another 45 getting resurrected.

Is that an oil fill cap sitting in the battery tray?
 
Living in the Past said:
I don't know see a oil fill cap. I see the oil fill tube used until the 72 model moved it to the valve cover.
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Post #89 first pic and #95 second pic. Could be an old school radiator cap also.
 
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