The TexaCali 45 Emprise—Dani California Rising

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Living in the Past said:
I don't know see a oil fill cap. I see the oil fill tube used until the 72 model moved it to the valve cover.
Click to expand...

pjohnson said:
Post #89 first pic and #95 second pic. Could be an old school radiator cap also.
Click to expand...

I was hoping that it was the oil fill cap but no. I am not sure what it goes to--likely is the now-gone radiator's cap.
 
MadMace said:
I was hoping that it was the oil fill cap but no. I am not sure what it goes to--likely is the now-gone radiator's cap.
Click to expand...
It's a radiator cap, correct ones had a chain on connected to the radiator.

When the time comes for spark plugs, don't overlook your local lawnmower/chainsaw/generator store. They tend to have the correct 3/8" reach spark plugs cheap which you will likely foul while running in the motor and burning off the oil/diesel/etc.

Two stroke oil mixed with gas will take care of the valve guides which are likely still from the leaded gas era.

Acetone mixed with fuel helps to get the varnish and gunk from the fuel tank, lines and pump while straight acetone could clean the carburetor enough to run fine without opening it
 
locklaw said:
It's a radiator cap, correct ones had a chain on connected to the radiator.

When the time comes for spark plugs, don't overlook your local lawnmower/chainsaw/generator store. They tend to have the correct 3/8" reach spark plugs cheap which you will likely foul while running in the motor and burning off the oil/diesel/etc.

Two stroke oil mixed with gas will take care of the valve guides which are likely still from the leaded gas era.

Acetone mixed with fuel helps to get the varnish and gunk from the fuel tank, lines and pump while straight acetone could clean the carburetor enough to run fine without opening it
Click to expand...

Being that the engine is a leaded gas era engine, do I do like a 40:1 or 50:1 2 stroke oil to work against valve seat regression. From my understanding as well, it is important to use ethanol free gas, which fortunately I have access to.
 
pjohnson said:
Post #89 first pic and #95 second pic. Could be an old school radiator cap also.
Click to expand...


That makes sense. Since no posts were quoted was going off the last post with an engine picture.

I know my 68 still has it's original oil cap if you need a picture. In another location have some old radiators that might have an original cap. I know both had chains to prevent them from getting lost just like the gas cap.
 
Oil fill cap for that vintage (PCV isn’t, I added that). Orange is the correct color too 😂.
1778968D-66FE-438F-BC1E-F6CFF7476929.jpeg
 
MadMace said:
Being that the engine is a leaded gas era engine, do I do like a 40:1 or 50:1 2 stroke oil to work against valve seat regression. From my understanding as well, it is important to use ethanol free gas, which fortunately I have access to.
Click to expand...
I don't use a special formula, usually chuck about a pint of 2 stroke in about 10 gallons (so roughly 80:1) in my older vehicles which don't see too many miles but double the amount in freshly resurrected ones such as yours to about 40:1. Ultimately, spark plugs are cheap, rebuilds are not.

In my part of the world (South Africa) we fortunately don't get ethanol gas but likely get lower quality stuff than what you do, so I would go with the lowest grade normal gas you can get (cetane/octane rating), the higher ratings would be a waste.
 
MadMace said:
One thing I remember researching with my son is safe tie down. We used a tire lasso for each tire and 4 chain tie downs with axle straps. The chain tie downs we used were military surplus ones we tracked down on line. The best tie downs I’ve used and simple. Over 2000+ miles they didn’t have to be adjusted once—and let me tell you, we went through some pretty hairy roads on the way home, especially through the mountains in Colorado. Should anybody need any info on them, do not hesitate to PM me.

I’m going to put some trip stats together later and things I learned/recommend should anybody plan a trip like this in the future. I’d do it again in a heart beat and other than going to Vegas, literally would not do anything different.View attachment 2697574View attachment 2697575
Click to expand...


Yup, that is the proper way to strap a rig down on a trailer.

Many people like to put chains and binders on the frame and pull down the suspension. Not safe at all.

Cheers
 
middlecalf said:
Oil fill cap for that vintage (PCV isn’t, I added that). Orange is the correct color too 😂.
View attachment 2700870
Click to expand...

The PCV is debatable. Only ones I seen that didn't have the PCV fitting had the draft tube and slits in the valve cover. Back to the FJ25 Toyota had a way of working to get blow by fumes out of the crankcase, even if it was crude method with the draft tube.

Every oil cap I've seen have been black including my 68 FJ40 which I bought in 1974. The steel fan I've seen plenty of orange ones.
 
Mmmm, yummy. Anybody want some, I’m happy to share...but no seconds!!!!

D0BFCF5E-BE16-4F5A-B4F4-AAAEC1A9440F.jpeg


And after one round of cleaning...I continue to be impressed with PB Blaster. Final wash and soak will be with diesel...but there is a lot of scrubbing to be done between now and then.

AA68873A-4E6A-4D16-BC8A-67A0B1A92574.webp
 
Last edited:
MadMace said:
Mmmm, yummy. Anybody want some, I’m happy to share...but no seconds!!!!

View attachment 2701191

And after one round of cleaning...I continue to be impressed with PB Blaster. Final wash and soak will be with diesel...but there is a lot of scrubbing to be done between now and then.

View attachment 2701294
Click to expand...
Great going. When I was at this stage I pulled the lifters and push rods (mark the location where they came from) and get into the lifter bore and the camshaft surface with a soft scoring tool/wire brush/etc while turning over the motor.

The cam lobes like to get surface rust/gunk on them from standing and rather clean it off while you're in there instead of grinding it off with/in to the lifters.

Give the lifters a bath in diesel to flush out nasties and coat the cam, lifter bore and lifters liberally with engine assembly lube before assembly. One less thing to worry about when starting it up.

Also, try to get the oil galley plugs out and flush the worst out with diesel/gas/acetone/whatever you have that's flammable
 
Recovery efforts underway. I tried to convince myself the green was okay. I do like the green respray BUT matching it would be very, very difficult. I am definitely going to need paint to be available as the passenger door is toast and will have to be replaced. I know her original color is Lily White. I have had very good luck with 66 Auto Color paints so I figure I can either spray a replacement door or get one that is already Lily White.

I have tried several different ways to remove the respray. Acetone, citrus stripper too strong. In the end, using a razor blade skating over the surface does the trick. You can see in the first picture how it essentially scraps it off. Then, able to get down to the original paint wet sanding SOFTLY with 400 grit sandpaper. Will definitely be a patina rig.

The dark grey is the primer they used for the respray.
668F4B15-031A-4292-BBE6-F66E838461EE.webp


Slow and steady will win this race.
BDD583D1-6592-4788-864A-0B4AF15CD877.webp
 
So I am starting to think that her color is NOT Lily White. I am starting to think that her color is actually Colorado Beige that is known to fade/age to a salmon/BandAid color. You can see that color peeking through and I have actually seen this color on the door frames. Anybody have any thoughts on this?
 
Look up under the dash. That will be the true color.
 
I am starting to put together a list of plethora of parts I'm going to need for Dani. Topping the list are wheels. I have 2 OEM steelies (riveted) and 2 GM wheels. I am planning on leaving the drum brakes for now. Can I buy the new welded wheels from Toyota with drums or are they only for disc? I know the riveted cannot be used with disks but don't know about vice-versa.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom