Haha, ya, I'm in the prairies, about 12 hours of driving to get to the foothills of the real mountains in Canada.
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Haha, ya, I'm in the prairies, about 12 hours of driving to get to the foothills of the real mountains in Canada.
I don't know. Is that what's at the base of the screw? If so, maybe I should just adjust the boost compensator back before messing with it. (?)
thanks for that one, here is another
I use a spacer plate and longer stiffer spring, as I think at high boost even at the max upper star wheel setting the standard spring compresses too early, and may even coil bind with the star wheel wound up so far
with this set up you remove the star wheel completely, and use shims to fine tune the new spring
That's a nice setup @SeaJay.
I was thinking along those very lines myself.
Where did you find that gear?
In case anyone is interested, I turned the aneroid rod to the minimum fueling position and turned the off boost fuel (screw in the top plate) to the thinnest position yesterday. (I left boost at 23psi) On the drive in, my truck no longer feels like a race car but temps are way back down. And smoke is down to an acceptable level too. If I'm in 4th at 50-60mph and press the gass 50-60% (where it doesn't down shift) I can get EGTs to climb a little over 1100 degrees. But, if I press the gas down farther, it will downshift and EGTs will drop back down. I think I'll leave the settings as-is for a week or so, just to see how it performs. If temps remain manageable, the performance is acceptable.
The screw has a lock nut to stop it moving after adjustment. It definitely looks like the anti tamper sleeve (thin sheet metal sleeve) is still attached to the lock nut. Also looks like it has red loktite on it.
You can remove the screw and locknut completely, remove the sleeve, then reinstall the screw and lock nut, but it needs to be done carefully
Glad you are getting it where you want it. We need more people posting their adjustments and results in this thread.
I had to remove mine before i could increase fuel
Getting closer to what I want out of my tune.
Had dialed up the star wheel quite a lot (two turns) to account for the 25 PSI of boost, and then had to dial back the main fuel 1/4 turn as was still too rich at idle. Rotated the aneroid from 80% to max fuel, and then loosened up the star wheel four clicks. Minimal smoke coming off idle, spools quickly, and pulls hard to 3800 RPM getting on the freeway in the first four gears. Uphill pulls running still around 850-900 F. Around town and cruising are in the 550-650 range.
Still want to get my wideband O2 bung installed, but have been too busy to get that done yet...that will definitely let me know where there may be room for more fuel, and where some may need to be trimmed. May also see if I can get my iPhone to do a 0-60 time, LOL.
Had dialed up the star wheel quite a lot (two turns) to account for the 25 PSI of boost, and then had to dial back the main fuel 1/4 turn as was still too rich at idle. Rotated the aneroid from 80% to max fuel, and then loosened up the star wheel four clicks. Minimal smoke coming off idle, spools quickly, and pulls hard to 3800 RPM getting on the freeway in the first four gears. Uphill pulls running still around 850-900 F. Around town and cruising are in the 550-650 range.
Still want to get my wideband O2 bung installed, but have been too busy to get that done yet...that will definitely let me know where there may be room for more fuel, and where some may need to be trimmed. May also see if I can get my iPhone to do a 0-60 time, LOL.
Hey Steve,
Your temps are awesome! I was considering doing what you just did... turn down the main fuel, then rotate the aneroid rod to the max fuel position. Right now, I'm running 23-24psi with the main fuel untouched and my aneroid at the minimum fuel position. I can still get temps around 1100 degrees, if I lug it with the torque converter locked out in 4th. What intercooler setup are you running? I'm considering trying to fit my old Evo 9 intercooler in there but it will be tight with my transmission cooler. Looking at your temps along with the fact that you are running more fuel than me is a real motivator.
I am running the Safari FMIC. It definitely makes a difference. Temps here are in the 50's and 60's, so I expect my numbers to be higher when summer comes. I want to tune conservatively, this not pushing things too far.
So you are running 23psi with not intercooler? I ask because I have not finished my intercooler build but am getting the MMP group buy turbo and planned to install it and run it anyway. I am getting the wastegate set to 18psi and then I can use my MBC to run into the 20's if I want later. Any issues you can see with that plan?
Yes sir, 23psi without an intercooler. I'm running the extra boost to keep EGTs cool but can't tune much fuel in without the intercooler. Still, I believe that my rig is quicker than a stock 80, diesel or gas.
@CycloSteve
Post up some 0-60 results and I will do the same. Then we can see how much faster an intercooled rig is than not.
Also, I'm hoping to get a little dyno time to see power now. If/when I get an intercooler and turn up fuel, I'll do it again.
I found this yesterday for the 1HD-T and didn't see it posted here. Thoughts?
That makes sense to me... as long as the spring/rod in the boost compensator allow for the extra travel length. I think they do, since guys seem to grind their pins beyond the typical cutoff point.
That's where the shim under diaphragm comes in to play, right?
I think the "over-boost" section marked in red is too abrupt. There's no flat and no transition from the fuel ramp taper to the"over boost" taper.
I don't think the follower pin would ride freely across the abrupt transition, IF the aneroid pin is depressed that far.
Yes, the spacers, or shims stop the aneroid pin traveling beyond the end of the taper.
I don't think the follower pin would ride freely across the abrupt transition, IF the aneroid pin is depressed that far.
Yes, the spacers, or shims stop the aneroid pin traveling beyond the end of the taper.
Hi,
I've been re-reading this absolute avalanche of intel and like in another web place I'll also try my luck here.
A little back ground, I own a 300K km 1994 HDJ80, 1HDT, Manual, intercooled, straight 60mm exhaust, running around 15psi and already had a pump tweek. But I'm not sure of what has been done and how, since it was done by previous owner. Soon to be fitted a snorkel and full 3'' exhaust.
Anyway... I always noticed a little estrange behaviour going up the RPMs, good low down power OK, then between 2200 till 2600 RPMs quite flat... And form there till 3800 goes strong (thinking about it, maybe even stronger than in the low RPMs)! In higher gears like 4th 3500 RPMs and not much more happens. Any thoughts on this?
I'm thinking bout going all around the diesel pump and use Graeme's guide to check as it is along with some other tips that I read here. Mainly to check where the pin is riding in the arenoid and ensure it's riding the green marks and not the red marks on the following image.
What else?
Cheers
I've been re-reading this absolute avalanche of intel and like in another web place I'll also try my luck here.
A little back ground, I own a 300K km 1994 HDJ80, 1HDT, Manual, intercooled, straight 60mm exhaust, running around 15psi and already had a pump tweek. But I'm not sure of what has been done and how, since it was done by previous owner. Soon to be fitted a snorkel and full 3'' exhaust.
Anyway... I always noticed a little estrange behaviour going up the RPMs, good low down power OK, then between 2200 till 2600 RPMs quite flat... And form there till 3800 goes strong (thinking about it, maybe even stronger than in the low RPMs)! In higher gears like 4th 3500 RPMs and not much more happens. Any thoughts on this?
I'm thinking bout going all around the diesel pump and use Graeme's guide to check as it is along with some other tips that I read here. Mainly to check where the pin is riding in the arenoid and ensure it's riding the green marks and not the red marks on the following image.
What else?
Cheers