Build The Oddball 80 - Middle East GX Renovation

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love that thing! nice job Nolan. I am a huge sucker for that spec Cruiser :)
 
Took the carpet out and pressure washed it and put it back in. I ordered a set of mats to cover the wear.
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The OEM pintle hitch is cool
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Rear seat is back in and that row cleaned up real nice as well.
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Finally, check out this cool Irwin screwdriver I found in the truck

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The screwdriver is a "perfect handle" screwdriver and was commonly referred to as a "mechanic's screwdriver." William S. Ward patented the design in 1903 and assigned the patent to H.D. Smith & Co. of Plantsville, Connecticut for production. Smith didn't make it through the depression, so the design became widely imitated after that - hence the Irwin version. From what I understand, Irwin manufactured them through the late 80's until the American Tool Company bought Irwin.

From what I understand, they were included in Government issue tool kits. Are there any other numbers/markings on the screwdriver? The GI ones would have the stock numbers on them.

There are still a few manufacturers making such screwdrivers - Garrett Wade for one: Wood-Handled Heavy-Duty Screwdriver Set
 
Thanks for the history lesson on the screwdriver.
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I did not pull the front carpet. It’s a bit more worked but it came mostly clean with scrubbing, air and vacuum. The only tear in the interior is on the side of the drivers seat.
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For some reason the clam shell is missing. No idea what US model I would even start to try to get to fit this.
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The dash and radio are super simple. There are holes where the choke and hand throttle were pulled out. AM radio and a tape deck!
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Also I found a cool VIN tag and what was likely the price tag when it sold at some point somewhere

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That double decker radio is amazing.

I think it’s the same clamshell. Readily available.
 
Thanks for the history lesson on the screwdriver.
View attachment 2361247
I did not pull the front carpet. It’s a bit more worked but it came mostly clean with scrubbing, air and vacuum. The only tear in the interior is on the side of the drivers seat.
View attachment 2361245
For some reason the clam shell is missing. No idea what US model I would even start to try to get to fit this.
View attachment 2361250
The dash and radio are super simple. There are holes where the choke and hand throttle were pulled out. AM radio and a tape deck!
View attachment 2361252
Also I found a cool VIN tag and what was likely the price tag when it sold at some point somewhere

View attachment 2361253
I’ve never noticed that style clock before. It makes sense the stripped down versions wouldn’t get that boujee ass alarm clock. Cool.
 
Partsouq.com is showing the original clamshell as NA but a substitute is available. $58.

Original number: 452866094101
Available substitute: 4528660954C0

I have been trying to figure that site out without much luck. Thanks. Ordered. $89 shipped.
 
Conversion from 3F to 3FE, any indication how the wiring was done for the EFI system? Possibilities come to mind, compete wiring harness swap, EFI wiring subharness patched in (wiring cut etc.), or did Toyota provide a basic 80 series harness that could be used in either engine version with EFI plugs available on the 3F harness?
 
Conversion from 3F to 3FE, any indication how the wiring was done for the EFI system? Possibilities come to mind, compete wiring harness swap, EFI wiring subharness patched in (wiring cut etc.), or did Toyota provide a basic 80 series harness that could be used in either engine version with EFI plugs available on the 3F harness?
What I’ve been wondering too. Curious if they just swapped the head, whole engine, just the intake? Is that even a possibility? And of course the wiring.

Has the hood been popped on this thing yet?
 
Conversion from 3F to 3FE, any indication how the wiring was done for the EFI system? Possibilities come to mind, compete wiring harness swap, EFI wiring subharness patched in (wiring cut etc.), or did Toyota provide a basic 80 series harness that could be used in either engine version with EFI plugs available on the 3F harness?

Looks like a complete wiring harness swap. I have two pretty big unused plugs where the harness comes out of the firewall on the passenger side. Computer is behind the glove box like normal.

It looks completely factory Except for the position of some of the things under the hood versus a US FJ80.

I’m going under there to clean today and get ready for a desmog and fuel pump redo. I’ll get better pics

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I’d think the fuel pump dealio would be a walk in the park. I’m kinda surprised they did it the way they did. Dropping in a sending unit and maybe adapting a hose is small potatoes compared to the other work I assume they did.
 
Looks like a complete wiring harness swap. I have two pretty big unused plugs where the harness comes out of the firewall on the passenger side. Computer is behind the glove box like normal.

It looks completely factory Except for the position of some of the things under the hood versus a US FJ80.

I’m going under there to clean today and get ready for a desmog and fuel pump redo. I’ll get better pics

View attachment 2361994

If a complete wiring swap then OEM fuel pump wiring will be present.

Desmog is easy. Plug the air rail ports, and use a freeze plug in the EGR spot on the intake manifold, and go with a huge allen head plug for the EGR spot on the exhaust manifold. I think @FJ40Jim carries these parts. When I desmogged the 3FE in the 60 I left the smog pump in place instead of sourcing a replacement non-OEM belt.
 
I have been trying to figure that site out without much luck. Thanks. Ordered. $89 shipped.

Just put in your VIN (in your case FJ80-0022662) and it will bring up all the parts diagrams. Very similar to ToyoDIY. You then click on the diagrams and it brings up parts options; often with photos. It's a great resource even if you don't buy from them. Fair warning; you can buy a lot of stuff in a hurry!

I bought a pintle hitch in the Riyadh wrecker yards off a 200 series that was like new for about $75 with all the hardware. It will go on my FJ55. You can still buy all the OEM hardware for them as well for around $20 IIRC. That MENA region pintle hitch design hasn't changed at all as far as I can tell from the 55 to the 200. I have the same one on my 75 as my new 200.
 
Engine bay got its bath so here are the photos.

I have never owned a 3FE except to flip a couple of turd FJ62s so I’m not familiar with how anything is supposed to be laid out.

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When it died on me the first time I found this breaker tucked down under the coil. You can see the genius scotch locked the power wire and then grounded it to an old washer bottle holder on the firewall. I assure you, whatever pump was in the truck before it was not done like this.

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Full View of the passenger side

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These are the two plugs that I was talking about that are not being used

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Front View

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Drivers side. The EGR valve with the blue label is just venting to atmosphere. The rest looks like it’s in the correct place.
 
What’s the best about the fuel pump is that it is before the fuel filter. Brilliant.

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This sticker is interesting. You can see a Toyota sticker just below the Nissan

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The only place (besides the hack fuel pump) that’s not neat in the wiring is this bundle of wires at the kick plate on the drivers side.

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What I’ve been wondering too. Curious if they just swapped the head, whole engine, just the intake? Is that even a possibility? And of course the wiring.

Has the hood been popped on this thing yet?

Do the EFI blocks come with a fuel pump plate of is that eliminated in the cast?

This one has a block off plate which plays into the theory that they swapped the top end only.
 
If a complete wiring swap then OEM fuel pump wiring will be present.

Desmog is easy. Plug the air rail ports, and use a freeze plug in the EGR spot on the intake manifold, and go with a huge allen head plug for the EGR spot on the exhaust manifold. I think @FJ40Jim carries these parts. When I desmogged the 3FE in the 60 I left the smog pump in place instead of sourcing a replacement non-OEM belt.

I guess this type air pump can be run without being hooked up? I know 40 and 60 ones will burn up if you try that.

Do you just leave the pump ports open to atmosphere or do you plug them?
 
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