- Thread starter
- #161
Oh, and anyone got a lead on an ashtray, mine is beyond grotesque so I have an empty hole!
The moment of truth is coming near (PAINT)
- Thread starter akeyzoo
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tucker74
Moderator
Looking good man, I think your hood alignment issue is due to the bib to fender gap ... looks too tight which would shift your bib back 
Tucker
Tucker
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Looking good man, I think your hood alignment issue is due to the hood to fender gap ... looks too tight which would shift your bib back
Tucker
Or bib and fender....
<edit>
How I square them up in not by working forward, but backwards.
Get the vaseline out if you're not using natural washer to prevent paint damage. With Vaseline lube all faces and then bolt together slowly and gently align the fenders not only front to back, but up and down. then work your way to the hood hinges.
Hot bucket of water with Dawn will clean up the mess.
I am working in a FST and will be powder-coating all soft top hardware, I HIGHLY recommend that, if you need help to color match as you will, shoot me a email.
Shane
She's looking great!
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tucker74
Moderator
I pretty much do what Shane outlined as far a putting it back together, but I never thought of using Vaseline 
Silly question ...did you replace the front bump pads on the top of the bib? Your hood seems way too close to the bib, so I figured I'd ask...I posted a pic I had on file showing these pads...two per side
Seat belts should be the red ones to be correct for the '64, but finding them is not easy. Attached are a couple of pics showing the correct red belts. I am also looking for these belts for mine, even if I am not a fan of lap belts...
You're almost there, just a little more fussing, and you'll have one of the nicest, "period correct" cruisers here...very nice work man...just a little more
Silly question ...did you replace the front bump pads on the top of the bib? Your hood seems way too close to the bib, so I figured I'd ask...I posted a pic I had on file showing these pads...two per side
Seat belts should be the red ones to be correct for the '64, but finding them is not easy. Attached are a couple of pics showing the correct red belts. I am also looking for these belts for mine, even if I am not a fan of lap belts...
You're almost there, just a little more fussing, and you'll have one of the nicest, "period correct" cruisers here...very nice work man...just a little more
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regarding the seat belts... try this company, looks like they offer red belts with the same feel.... never bought anything from them, but had this website in my favorites...
Replacement Seatbelts, Seat Belts, Retractable Seat Belts, and Seatbelt Extenders @ SeatBeltsPlus.co
Replacement Seatbelts, Seat Belts, Retractable Seat Belts, and Seatbelt Extenders @ SeatBeltsPlus.co
- Thread starter
- #167
Dean,
Yes, I replaced the bump pads FYI.
I really need to post up better pics of the mis-alignment.
Chris
Yes, I replaced the bump pads FYI.
I really need to post up better pics of the mis-alignment.
Chris
I looked at your picture some more, and it is hard to tell, but it looks like the gap where the apron meets the tub is not even...looks closer together at the top section, which pitches the front of the apron up, and making it look shorter than the hood...but it is really hard to tell.
The first picture is what I think I see...
The second picture is a picture taken when this blue '64 FST was almost new...look at that gap where the apron meets the tub...
And the last picture are just pics showing different early 40's and how this same gaps varies from tight to wide...even on the picture of the stock '62...and notice how all the corners of the hoods and apron meet up...
Hard to do when on the web and not in person...I hope these help a little.
You are almost there, just loosen it all up, try again, and be patient
The first picture is what I think I see...
The second picture is a picture taken when this blue '64 FST was almost new...look at that gap where the apron meets the tub...
And the last picture are just pics showing different early 40's and how this same gaps varies from tight to wide...even on the picture of the stock '62...and notice how all the corners of the hoods and apron meet up...
Hard to do when on the web and not in person...I hope these help a little.
You are almost there, just loosen it all up, try again, and be patient
- Thread starter
- #169
Dean,
Thanks for the great example pics. I need to wait for some good sunlight and take some better shots of the misalignment. Of course, doing so will only dredge up my hatred for the task at hand....
So as a diversion I worked on my jumpseats this weekend! Sorry, no pics yet, but they turned out pretty well. I did forget the rubber bumbers tho, and they are being sent this week so I should get those installed and be good to go.
I am also making great progress (albeit slow) on my FST doors. Dave at Genesis4x4 has hooked my up with new "glass" and vent weatherstrip as well as a few extra goodies. I will post more detailed pics and reviews when I get things together, but his stuff looks great, especially the vent weatherstrip. It looks DEAD ON.
More to come. Chris. Oh ya, and I need to sort out my seatbelts and may just order a set from the link Folkert sent above. I have some old rear jump seat belts but they are black, should they be red also?
Thanks for the great example pics. I need to wait for some good sunlight and take some better shots of the misalignment. Of course, doing so will only dredge up my hatred for the task at hand....
So as a diversion I worked on my jumpseats this weekend! Sorry, no pics yet, but they turned out pretty well. I did forget the rubber bumbers tho, and they are being sent this week so I should get those installed and be good to go.
I am also making great progress (albeit slow) on my FST doors. Dave at Genesis4x4 has hooked my up with new "glass" and vent weatherstrip as well as a few extra goodies. I will post more detailed pics and reviews when I get things together, but his stuff looks great, especially the vent weatherstrip. It looks DEAD ON.
More to come. Chris. Oh ya, and I need to sort out my seatbelts and may just order a set from the link Folkert sent above. I have some old rear jump seat belts but they are black, should they be red also?
- Thread starter
- #170
Oh, A question for the short running board crew out there. My running boards came with some aluminum diamondplate bolted directly to them, not with the original "frame" holding the plastic diamond plate material. I would like to FAB the frame, as I haven't been able to find any decent ones for sale...
Does anyone have some good pics of a running board "frame", or could you part with an example for a few weeks as I clone it (obviously I will pay to ship). Does the frame have any lip, or would flat stock be sufficient to fab it from. How wide is it, 1/2"? Perhaps just a width measurement will suffice if the frame is flat with no lip as I have a perfect set of templates mounted to my truck
this is what I am looking at...
Also, are the screw holes tapered so that the screw is flush with the top of the frame?
More joy with my hot glue gun
Chris
Does anyone have some good pics of a running board "frame", or could you part with an example for a few weeks as I clone it (obviously I will pay to ship). Does the frame have any lip, or would flat stock be sufficient to fab it from. How wide is it, 1/2"? Perhaps just a width measurement will suffice if the frame is flat with no lip as I have a perfect set of templates mounted to my truck
this is what I am looking at...
Also, are the screw holes tapered so that the screw is flush with the top of the frame?
More joy with my hot glue gun
Chris
Oh, A question for the short running board crew out there. My running boards came with some aluminum diamondplate bolted directly to them, not with the original "frame" holding the plastic diamond plate material. I would like to FAB the frame, as I haven't been able to find any decent ones for sale...
Does anyone have some good pics of a running board "frame", or could you part with an example for a few weeks as I clone it (obviously I will pay to ship). Does the frame have any lip, or would flat stock be sufficient to fab it from. How wide is it, 1/2"? Perhaps just a width measurement will suffice if the frame is flat with no lip as I have a perfect set of templates mounted to my truck
this is what I am looking at...
Also, are the screw holes tapered so that the screw is flush with the top of the frame?
More joy with my hot glue gun
Chris
I'll get you some pics In the mean time, this thread below, starting at post #98 is the best I can come up with for now. The White pyramid mat has to be cut a certain way to be proper...you can see how Jim did it
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/43345-project-krusty-not-resto-5.html
- Thread starter
- #172
Thanks dean. Those pics actually show a lot, perhaps if you can just measure how wide the frame is, I can do the rest. Will need to source the white pyramid stuff too...
BTW, What I was totally stoked to see in that thread were some restored horn buttons! How'd he do that???? Mine looks brutal.
Chris
ps. Dean, I still have your sticker but the post office self service machine wont ship up north and I cant find time to sneak over during normal hours. no worries tho!
BTW, What I was totally stoked to see in that thread were some restored horn buttons! How'd he do that???? Mine looks brutal.
Chris
ps. Dean, I still have your sticker but the post office self service machine wont ship up north and I cant find time to sneak over during normal hours. no worries tho!
Your hood is out past the front bib, right? Needs to be pulled to the rear to line up? Everything is together just like it should be and it's still not aligned correctly, right? 
The tub is too low in the front... You'll want to loosen everything (again) 
then raise the tub in the front and put some shims between the tub & frame at the body mounts, from front to rear. (You may need longer bolts for the body mounts in front.) That should pull the hood back even with the bib. 
Another way to check... if the hood / cowl gap is wider at the corners of the hood than in the center of the hood, the tub is too low (too close to the frame) in front.
I was baffled for the longest time, then when it hit me I was like yeah, of course!!
The tub is too low in the front... You'll want to loosen everything (again) then raise the tub in the front and put some shims between the tub & frame at the body mounts, from front to rear. (You may need longer bolts for the body mounts in front.) That should pull the hood back even with the bib. Another way to check... if the hood / cowl gap is wider at the corners of the hood than in the center of the hood, the tub is too low (too close to the frame) in front. I was baffled for the longest time, then when it hit me I was like yeah, of course!!
- Thread starter
- #174
igotta40, you most definitely have to check in when I post better pics, ok?
Sounds like you have walked this road..
Chris
Sounds like you have walked this road..
Chris
It's all good
Tell me if these pics help...
EDIT: PS...have you seen this great thread; https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/267328-dash-knob-refurbish-how.html
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- Thread starter
- #177
cbmontgo, Thanks man.
Dean, perfect. Heya, so hard to see in pic but what is the correct fastener for these? Loks like a phillips screw with a pan head and not countersunk in your pic.
Chris
Dean, perfect. Heya, so hard to see in pic but what is the correct fastener for these? Loks like a phillips screw with a pan head and not countersunk in your pic.
Chris
Correct on the Philips, not countersunk, and nut on the underside of mine, but have not removed, so not 100% on size and thread
Chris, yep I'll be watching your story, I've been where you are with mine. I bought my 1974 in October 1980, and I know how you feel... It's a love/hate relationship for sure, but worth every busted knuckle and cuss word! If I had a dollar for every "nice truck" , "what year is that?" , or " do you want to sell it?" I could almost buy another one!
Darn that's a beautiful piece of Toyota automotive history you have there!
My best friend Roy has a 1964 he's almost done with, though it's not stock like yours. Visually his looks correct but he upgraded the brakes to 4 wheel disc and added power steering and a lift.
Good luck!
Ron
Darn that's a beautiful piece of Toyota automotive history you have there!
My best friend Roy has a 1964 he's almost done with, though it's not stock like yours. Visually his looks correct but he upgraded the brakes to 4 wheel disc and added power steering and a lift.
Good luck!
Ron
- Thread starter
- #180
FST Doors rebuilt
Folks,
Thought I would share some status from the weekend. Spent some time working on the doors for my rig.
Firstly,
Kudos to Dave at Genesis 4x4. His door glass and wing window weatherstripping is perfect. I honestly cannot tell the difference between the OEM weatherstripping and his. And I can attest to their build quality as well, as getting that last corner installed takes some yanking and flexing, and everything held perfectly.
Dave also hooked me up with a replacement for one of my window handles/the thing that holds it in place. YAY.
Thanks Alex at Paktops for the OD canvas.
Thanks all else for help and advice.
Sooo, before paint I had the frames sandblasted and had some rust repair to do, primarily on the bottom frame and the door weatherstrip channels. I also had about 50% of the screws holding the channels need to be cut out. So once everything was painted I had to re-drill some new holes and line everything up.
Next I needed to get some replacement screws and couldn't find the right size... A #4 was too small and on a #6 the head was too big to fit in the channel. My solution was to use my cordless drill (thank you santa) as a lathe and use my bench grinder to reduce the diameter of the screw heads. Worked great.
Next I attached the canvas using "Amazing Goop" glue, my wife and a bunch of clamps. Started with tension from top to bottom, them glued and tensioned the sides. Attach the weatherstrip frame/channel and all is set.
Next I installed my new (SOR) door weatherstrip and felts for the window channels. My hands are still sore from the door weatherstrip. It was a pain to install. I ended up finding a heat gun to warm the rubber and a flat bladed screwdriver got the best results.
Installed the window glass and built a few rubber bumpers for the bottom using a block o' rubber I have, and bingo - working windows.
Next up, the door handles. Did I orient these correctly? I think I did.
Check out the results. I think the OD canvas on the Sulfurt Yellow looks AWESOME!!! These pics are cell phone, so take my word! ;p
QUESTION - What color should the door handle springs be? Body color?
BTW, This took a while. I was at this for the better part of 7-8 hours, not counting the paint work.
Before: These baby's were in "good" shape but the bottom channels had some significant rust.
Then some primer after blasting and rust repair....
DRUMROLL PLEASE!!!!!
Chris
Folks,
Thought I would share some status from the weekend. Spent some time working on the doors for my rig.
Firstly,
Kudos to Dave at Genesis 4x4. His door glass and wing window weatherstripping is perfect. I honestly cannot tell the difference between the OEM weatherstripping and his. And I can attest to their build quality as well, as getting that last corner installed takes some yanking and flexing, and everything held perfectly.
Dave also hooked me up with a replacement for one of my window handles/the thing that holds it in place. YAY.
Thanks Alex at Paktops for the OD canvas.
Thanks all else for help and advice.
Sooo, before paint I had the frames sandblasted and had some rust repair to do, primarily on the bottom frame and the door weatherstrip channels. I also had about 50% of the screws holding the channels need to be cut out. So once everything was painted I had to re-drill some new holes and line everything up.
Next I needed to get some replacement screws and couldn't find the right size... A #4 was too small and on a #6 the head was too big to fit in the channel. My solution was to use my cordless drill (thank you santa) as a lathe and use my bench grinder to reduce the diameter of the screw heads. Worked great.
Next I attached the canvas using "Amazing Goop" glue, my wife and a bunch of clamps. Started with tension from top to bottom, them glued and tensioned the sides. Attach the weatherstrip frame/channel and all is set.
Next I installed my new (SOR) door weatherstrip and felts for the window channels. My hands are still sore from the door weatherstrip. It was a pain to install. I ended up finding a heat gun to warm the rubber and a flat bladed screwdriver got the best results.
Installed the window glass and built a few rubber bumpers for the bottom using a block o' rubber I have, and bingo - working windows.
Next up, the door handles. Did I orient these correctly? I think I did.
Check out the results. I think the OD canvas on the Sulfurt Yellow looks AWESOME!!! These pics are cell phone, so take my word! ;p
QUESTION - What color should the door handle springs be? Body color?
BTW, This took a while. I was at this for the better part of 7-8 hours, not counting the paint work.
Before: These baby's were in "good" shape but the bottom channels had some significant rust.
Then some primer after blasting and rust repair....
DRUMROLL PLEASE!!!!!
Chris
