I just took readings on my front hubs today.
Start: 0 miles:. 89 and 91 all parts
After 3-1/2 hours of driving:
Cap:. 119 and 119
Drive flange:. 121 and 120
Brake rotor: 161 and 152
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Start: 0 miles:. 89 and 91 all parts
After 3-1/2 hours of driving:
Cap:. 119 and 119
Drive flange:. 121 and 120
Brake rotor: 161 and 152
- Thread starter
- #342
Dang, sounds like something is busted on mine then, should I bother replacing the grease in the hubs with things having been running hot?
No.
Depending on the grease you use the drop point is usually in the 450' range.
You haven't cooked it yet.
- Thread starter
- #344
napa is fast as usual, ordered parts before 
this morning, parts were at my local 2 hours later.
Upon pulling the calipers off, I found that the pads have a 1/8" lip on the outside, so new pads as well I guess
and while I am in there, the brake hardware was looking pretty sad
woooooooooooo
this morning, parts were at my local 2 hours later.Upon pulling the calipers off, I found that the pads have a 1/8" lip on the outside, so new pads as well I guess
and while I am in there, the brake hardware was looking pretty sad
woooooooooooo
napa is fast as usual, ordered parts before
Upon pulling the calipers off, I found that the pads have a 1/8" lip on the outside, so new pads as well I guess
and while I am in there, the brake hardware was looking pretty sad
woooooooooooo
The pads were either the wrong pads or installed wrong.
But if they're grooved like that it's possible the top was rubbing and causing your heat.
- Thread starter
- #346
okeydokey then
Reman brakes are on, did a questionable bleed last night, little bro will be in town, so if the test drive does not go well, will have a helper.
New front pads as well (did 100 series pads)
Need to figure out if I messed up the rear diff breather with my breather extension / reroute, going to pull that off, and blow some air through to see if it "breathes"
Reman brakes are on, did a questionable bleed last night, little bro will be in town, so if the test drive does not go well, will have a helper.
New front pads as well (did 100 series pads)
Need to figure out if I messed up the rear diff breather with my breather extension / reroute, going to pull that off, and blow some air through to see if it "breathes"
lumbee1
Native American
Don't suck on the breather with your mouth like I did to check it.
- Thread starter
- #349
Brakes seem to be ok? (hot hubs)
Took little bro out fishing this morning, a country road was traveled at 65 for ~20 mins, hubs were at 110 when we coasted into a parking lot.
Will do a highway only test tomorrow for a longer duration.
Took little bro out fishing this morning, a country road was traveled at 65 for ~20 mins, hubs were at 110 when we coasted into a parking lot.
Will do a highway only test tomorrow for a longer duration.
At some point, ignorance is bliss. If the preload is set right and the brakes arent dragging, send that s***.
lumbee1
Native American
At the same time, I've had sticking calipers. I didn't discover them until I was on a trip to Hurricane Creek with you coming down those twisty mountain gravel roads and noticed I had a lot less braking power. When we stopped at the bottom, my rear wheels were HOT.
Yeah, that's kinda what I'm saying though. Can't predict every failure. If something is going wrong, it'll make itself apparent eventually, lol.
- Thread starter
- #353
@lumbee1 per usual can predict what is causing the issues from many miles away.
removed the front driveshaft, and alllllllllll of the angry noises went away with the driveline, was nice and silent
also coming back from the beach, one of the corner light's plastic mounting brackets gave up the ghost, so looks like I will be on the hunt for some of those too
removed the front driveshaft, and alllllllllll of the angry noises went away with the driveline, was nice and silent
also coming back from the beach, one of the corner light's plastic mounting brackets gave up the ghost, so looks like I will be on the hunt for some of those too
- Thread starter
- #354
Alternator seems to be done, have discovered that someone previously *might* have used some RTV to hold the alternator plug in place on the back, so going to think about what to do there
if the alternator is done, might be time for a larger one
if the alternator is done, might be time for a larger one
- Thread starter
- #355
Good news: got the alternator out, ended up needing to rotate it while in the engine bay to get enough purchase on it to pull the plug out, the plug was infact not held in by RTV, was just full of grime
Bad news:
In order to get the alternator out, I unmounted it from all of it's respective brackets, rotated it 90 degrees
from what I can gather, a mix of age, and getting rained on by ATF for the past little while made the wiring harness pretty brittle, all of the sheathing on the wires has cracked at the connectors
Bad news:
In order to get the alternator out, I unmounted it from all of it's respective brackets, rotated it 90 degrees
from what I can gather, a mix of age, and getting rained on by ATF for the past little while made the wiring harness pretty brittle, all of the sheathing on the wires has cracked at the connectors
Brush on electrical tape. It's a liquid, but dries relatively hard.
- Thread starter
- #357
I might have a blown rectifier holder?
I followed the rectifier test at the top of the page, with the red cable from the multimeter (MM) going to the positive terminal, I got no beeps or number for all 4 of the positive terminals (terminal #4 is out of shot).
When I switch the leads (black cable from MM to positive terminal), I get numbers (but no beeps) for 1,2,4
I see that a new rectifier holder is $112, which is close enough to what a reman denso is though :/
I followed the rectifier test at the top of the page, with the red cable from the multimeter (MM) going to the positive terminal, I got no beeps or number for all 4 of the positive terminals (terminal #4 is out of shot).
When I switch the leads (black cable from MM to positive terminal), I get numbers (but no beeps) for 1,2,4
I see that a new rectifier holder is $112, which is close enough to what a reman denso is though :/
- Thread starter
- #358
Reman denso installed, was a medium PITA trying to line up all of the bolt holes
The alternator seems to be ok? but isnt outputting fully at 14v once I have driven around for a while.
Will continue to watch the meter in the cab
Now I am pretty sure the front bushings are done, there has been a wobble which happens at low speeds
(my thinking is partly informed by the PO including a box of ironman bushings)
The alternator seems to be ok? but isnt outputting fully at 14v once I have driven around for a while.
Will continue to watch the meter in the cab
Now I am pretty sure the front bushings are done, there has been a wobble which happens at low speeds
(my thinking is partly informed by the PO including a box of ironman bushings)
- Thread starter
- #359
Installed a Tom woods DC driveshaft, and the driveline grumble is gone at highway speeds! how nice it is!
now its just the roar of 35s M/Ts lol
Installed some corner lights, one headlight is missing the socket on one side, so going to try and have to run down a headlight assembly at some point
put an el-cheapo lightbar on the front for an upcoming trip, will see if that contributes to headgasket failure
now its just the roar of 35s M/Ts lol
Installed some corner lights, one headlight is missing the socket on one side, so going to try and have to run down a headlight assembly at some point
put an el-cheapo lightbar on the front for an upcoming trip, will see if that contributes to headgasket failure
No pics?Installed a Tom woods DC driveshaft, and the driveline grumble is gone at highway speeds! how nice it is!
now its just the roar of 35s M/Ts lol
Installed some corner lights, one headlight is missing the socket on one side, so going to try and have to run down a headlight assembly at some point
put an el-cheapo lightbar on the front for an upcoming trip, will see if that contributes to headgasket failure
