- Thread starter
- #41
Yup! Just keeping it simple.. Wanting to enjoy it as it is for now, especially with the nicer weather.
Build The Farm Fresh 72
- Thread starter biggestlittle55
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- Thread starter
- #42
Bit of an update....pulled trans to put in a new input seal, relocated the horns , added a fuse panel under the hood, and took it for a cruse. Still chasing leaking at the clutch line but likely going to reflare the line where it goes to the soft line.
- Thread starter
- #44
Oh I agree. Electrically, my cruiser is far from the simple and pure carbonated fj55 electrically. But yes, I will be addressing the wiring. The fuse panel was the first step to remediate the just throw it in and get it running wiring originally.
Great, first we got da shackle po-lice, now we gots the electricity po-lice all up in here!
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- #47
Small update....I suppose the vented rear quarter panels and swiss cheese rear fenders got the better of me. Live edge wood tables are a thing, so this is basically the same thing. Ultimately decided to cut it all off
Lots of work later and its looking like something. Essentially just loped off the rusty fender flare and used 3/16ths rod to give me something to tie in the lip of the wheel tub with the outer skin. This also was how I attached the 1" flare. Far from done as I have to finish the rear body mount and finish up a bunch on this side before ignoring the other side some more.
Lots of work later and its looking like something. Essentially just loped off the rusty fender flare and used 3/16ths rod to give me something to tie in the lip of the wheel tub with the outer skin. This also was how I attached the 1" flare. Far from done as I have to finish the rear body mount and finish up a bunch on this side before ignoring the other side some more.
Nice! You are cleaning her up!!!
Like your approach to bringing her back! Practical and cool. What vehicle is that console from? Need one for my 40. Any chance you can get me some measurements (length, width, height)?
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- #50
Thanks!
Center console is from the jungle site. Really meant for CJs and YJs but it fit great!
- Thread starter
- #51
Weekend update. Outer door seals replaced since the likely original ones were turning to dust. Also forgot to include my updated "evap" system for the tank. Since I have both the Sniper EFI and the original stuff was broken/removed, I had to get creative. Picked up a universal charcoal canister and a one way rollover valve. I am using one of the 4 corner vents on the tank for an EFI return, however I redid the other 3 and tied them all into one with the canister/valve. Functional, maybe, but really just trying to keep fuel in the tank at steep angles off road. Had to tell but maybe the gas smell is less?
Oh and more work on the rear passenger side body mount/quarter panel. I'm just kind of winging it...its not like I can make it worse.
Oh and more work on the rear passenger side body mount/quarter panel. I'm just kind of winging it...its not like I can make it worse.
I made some “caps” for mine with some thicker sheetmetal (14ga?)
Started this on page 30
Started this on page 30
Build Thread 'Fly By Night'
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
Small update. Honestly have not done a whole lot recently. All of the recent body work got a quick coat of primer just for something other than bare metal. Unsure on final painting but thats not a priority at all at the moment.
Rear swaybar is now installed again with fresh bushings and links. I hadn't driven it with it installed before. Still pretty boaty but it helps a little I guess. Exhaust and the swaybar were occupying the same space so had to modify things. It's 3" tube so not really worried with a 100% non performance functional 3.9 litres of forward motivator under the hood.
Installed a fan.
I have no idea how many miles or what kind of life this F had but initial cold pressure is great about 40. Hot idle is like 15 and pressure would seemingly dip when revving. It also dropped while at cruise on the highway at like 2500 rpm but when I got back to surface streets it went back to "normal", even at the same rpms as I shift through the gears.
Yes, I had originally been running an electronic oil pressure gauge but threw in a mechanical gauge, just to confirm what the electronic gauge was reading. Replaced the return line from the oil filter but ultimately just ended up taking the whole bypass assembly off. The valve was indeed stuck between the two holes and had to be punched out. The bore and the piston are scored, so it got some sort of metal shrapnel at some point. Game plan is to just get a used one from SOR and toss it in.
Still doing research on how the valve functions and specifically what sort of effect the valve would have on oil pressure if it was stuck like mine ; if there was any insight on that, would be appreciated.
Rear swaybar is now installed again with fresh bushings and links. I hadn't driven it with it installed before. Still pretty boaty but it helps a little I guess. Exhaust and the swaybar were occupying the same space so had to modify things. It's 3" tube so not really worried with a 100% non performance functional 3.9 litres of forward motivator under the hood.
Installed a fan.
I have no idea how many miles or what kind of life this F had but initial cold pressure is great about 40. Hot idle is like 15 and pressure would seemingly dip when revving. It also dropped while at cruise on the highway at like 2500 rpm but when I got back to surface streets it went back to "normal", even at the same rpms as I shift through the gears.
Yes, I had originally been running an electronic oil pressure gauge but threw in a mechanical gauge, just to confirm what the electronic gauge was reading. Replaced the return line from the oil filter but ultimately just ended up taking the whole bypass assembly off. The valve was indeed stuck between the two holes and had to be punched out. The bore and the piston are scored, so it got some sort of metal shrapnel at some point. Game plan is to just get a used one from SOR and toss it in.
Still doing research on how the valve functions and specifically what sort of effect the valve would have on oil pressure if it was stuck like mine ; if there was any insight on that, would be appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #56
Quick update.
Used but correctly functioning oil bypass valve installed. The little spring and piston mechanism moves as it should and some how I'm now seeing 44-46 psi at cold start and 18-20 at hot idle. Oil pressure also now bumps with the throttle....it never did that before in my ownership. Lines to the oil filter have also been replaced. No idea if it is fixed, but it is different.
Relay rod ball joints got inspected, cleaned and regreased with new boots. Old ones were just gone.
And I suppose this would be a large mod, but the ole 55 got some new hooves. No regrets going to 33x10.5s. While i did consider MTs, this is just an around town cruiser and dirt road camp truck so I didn't see much to be gained there. Plus, the lower rolling resistance may be in my favor when it comes to that powerhorse of an F under the hood.
Used but correctly functioning oil bypass valve installed. The little spring and piston mechanism moves as it should and some how I'm now seeing 44-46 psi at cold start and 18-20 at hot idle. Oil pressure also now bumps with the throttle....it never did that before in my ownership. Lines to the oil filter have also been replaced. No idea if it is fixed, but it is different.
Relay rod ball joints got inspected, cleaned and regreased with new boots. Old ones were just gone.
And I suppose this would be a large mod, but the ole 55 got some new hooves. No regrets going to 33x10.5s. While i did consider MTs, this is just an around town cruiser and dirt road camp truck so I didn't see much to be gained there. Plus, the lower rolling resistance may be in my favor when it comes to that powerhorse of an F under the hood.