Build The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times.

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those would level it!
I've got a pretty similar setup to your 60. Rear kaymar, OME medium and my rear sits up probably 1" higher than the front, but once I'm loaded it is pretty level.

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How was your handling after adding the long shackles? I'm always leary of relying on shackles to get significant lift.
I did the lift and shackles at the same time, but I've had no issues with it for 3 years or so...it's a little tippy but I don't run a front sway bar either (Need to get extended sway bar brackets).
 
Not to hijack @HemiAlex thread but I'm in the very same boat, even more so recently.

Originally I had OME CS003's front and CS004's rear...thats a bad combo IMO, I bought wrong before I understood what all the OME spring options are. CS003 Fr. and CS004 Rear don't even belong in the same solar system together, vastly different looking springs. I soon did AAL to the front 003, which helped a lot, similar to @mattressking results, but still had some rake.

Fast forward numerous years...during a recent spring removal and clean up, I said screw it and just ordered brand new CS004's up front, thinking newer better fresher lift. I swear the new 004 actually sit lower than the old 003 w/AAL. Didn't measure before/after...wish I had. Visually the stinkbug rake seems to have increased with the new springs. I'm pissed. But I have matching 004's F & R now, forwhateverthatsworth.

So looking at individual options and/or a combo of some:
1- extended front shackles on the new CS004 (still leary of going too long on shackle length here)
2- adding my old AAL to the new front 004's (this could make a very stiff spring (?) )
3- remove the extra leaf from the rear 004's (but I love the rear height...it's perfect, but it might soften them up some, compromise)

Debating what combo of options to try, maybe all 3. Likely 1 and 3 (?). All it will cost me is a set of new front shackles and elbow grease.

Alex, I'd like to see our rigs side by side.
 
Not to hijack @HemiAlex thread but I'm in the very same boat, even more so recently.

Originally I had OME CS003's front and CS004's rear...thats a bad combo IMO, I bought wrong before I understood what all the OME spring options are. CS003 Fr. and CS004 Rear don't even belong in the same solar system together, vastly different looking springs. I soon did AAL to the front 003, which helped a lot, similar to @mattressking results, but still had some rake.

Fast forward numerous years...during a recent spring removal and clean up, I said screw it and just ordered brand new CS004's up front, thinking newer better fresher lift. I swear the new 004 actually sit lower than the old 003 w/AAL. Didn't measure before/after...wish I had. Visually the stinkbug rake seems to have increased with the new springs. I'm pissed. But I have matching 004's F & R now, forwhateverthatsworth.

So looking at individual options and/or a combo of some:
1- extended front shackles on the new CS004 (still leary of going too long on shackle length here)
2- adding my old AAL to the new front 004's (this could make a very stiff spring (?) )
3- remove the extra leaf from the rear 004's (but I love the rear height...it's perfect, but it might soften them up some, compromise)

Debating what combo of options to try, maybe all 3. Likely 1 and 3 (?). All it will cost me is a set of new front shackles and elbow grease.

Alex, I'd like to see our rigs side by side.

Shackle angle is what you're 'limited by'. Once the shackle angle is perpendicular to frame, it's no longer functioning as designed. If you have room to play, shackle is easiest. If it still has room, throw an AAL in, the longer one. D1XL I think is part number.

...Sorry @HemiAlex
 
No major updates so far. I've got parts ready for a 3FE exhaust manifold swap with @samc2447 soon, and I'd like to decide what I'm doing for a Colorado trip this year. My 2F exhaust manifold has worn me out with leaking. It's time to improve things.

It's been good for the most part. No major leaks or issues. AC is blowing cold and the Texas summer isn't beating it up too bad.
 
Leaving these here for reference.
My Toyo MT have been causing a pull. I spent a pretty penny to resolve it, in the end it is 100% the tires and they will be warrantied out.

I swapped with a buddy while his truck is down for a hub rebuild. The pulling is gone completely.

These are 16x6 FJ company aluminum wheels with the optional clips for factory 40 series caps. He’s running a 285/75-16 on them.

I love them, but I can’t handle another set of wheels at the moment. Really spruces the old rust bucket up.

I’ll be switching to a 255/85-16 KM3 or a 255/85-16 Yokohama G003 if they will give me a full refund.

If I get crazy I’ll do 285/75-16, but it’s a bit wide for my tastes.

4 wheel parts has been amazing to deal with and their warranty is awesome.

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Also, with the temps being so hot here with a heat index of 104* I’m amazed I’ve not had more issues with the cooling system.

It really suffers with the ac on at idle. So I’m upgrading to the FCT049 fan clutch from a 3FE 80 series. Should be a bit better at idle since it was intended for use in a heavier vehicle with an auto trans. This is the only thing I can do short of adding a pusher fan, which I don’t feel like messing with.
 
Leaving these here for reference.
My Toyo MT have been causing a pull. I spent a pretty penny to resolve it, in the end it is 100% the tires and they will be warrantied out.

I swapped with a buddy while his truck is down for a hub rebuild. The pulling is gone completely.

These are 16x6 FJ company aluminum wheels with the optional clips for factory 40 series caps. He’s running a 285/75-16 on them.

I love them, but I can’t handle another set of wheels at the moment. Really spruces the old rust bucket up.

I’ll be switching to a 255/85-16 KM3 or a 255/85-16 Yokohama G003 if they will give me a full refund.

If I get crazy I’ll do 285/75-16, but it’s a bit wide for my tastes.

4 wheel parts has been amazing to deal with and their warranty is awesome.

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Those are aluminum?? Wow. What is the width of the 16” OEM steelies...6” ?
 
Those are aluminum?? Wow. What is the width of the 16” OEM steelies...6” ?

Yes. They are aluminum. My 70 series Steelies are steel, but the back spacing on these is pushed out a little more. They sit way closer to flush. I like the fitment more on these.
 
Leaving these here for reference.
My Toyo MT have been causing a pull. I spent a pretty penny to resolve it, in the end it is 100% the tires and they will be warrantied out.

I swapped with a buddy while his truck is down for a hub rebuild. The pulling is gone completely.

These are 16x6 FJ company aluminum wheels with the optional clips for factory 40 series caps. He’s running a 285/75-16 on them.

I love them, but I can’t handle another set of wheels at the moment. Really spruces the old rust bucket up.

I’ll be switching to a 255/85-16 KM3 or a 255/85-16 Yokohama G003 if they will give me a full refund.

If I get crazy I’ll do 285/75-16, but it’s a bit wide for my tastes.

4 wheel parts has been amazing to deal with and their warranty is awesome.

View attachment 2394665View attachment 2394666

View attachment 2394667
Man I actually really like those 285s on there with the 16x6s. The hubcaps with your paint color are badass :cool:
 
I’ll just leave these here. The truck looks better on real film.

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Swapped the tires again. The Toyo MT weren’t working for me. They had a bad pull that was likely one tire. It stopped with rotation but it was a mess. 4wheelparts were great to deal with and warrantied them out.


I swapped to a 255/85-16 E rated km3. Initial impressions are great. They feel like a slightly more aggressive k02 which is a good thing. No rumble at low speeds, no pulling and I’m sure they aren’t a true 33.1” tire like stated but after all I did to the front end, I’m done setting little details. I want to drive the truck hard; and these will do it for me.

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They look great on stock wheels too. I've been told they perform well in Moab country climbing ledges from the guides who use them on 80 series.
 
They look great on stock wheels too. I've been told they perform well in Moab country climbing ledges from the guides who use them on 80 series.

They are supposed to be on a minimum 6.5 wheel, but they work well on this 16x6.

I ran 10.5 on wagon wheels for 30k, this is a great proper width combo. I can’t wait to air it down and try them out in a few weeks.
 
Advertised at 33.1”, actual is 32.6” at 35psi. I’m happy.
 
The truck just did a little trip. 3000 miles in a week and it did great at what it does naturally. I beat on it and it brought me back home. Rolled 325,000 miles and didn’t miss a beat. More to come in a little story soon.

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