The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread

[mudgudgeon]

Better turbo efficiency directly translates to better fuel economy (as long as you drive the same speeds as prior).

I've found ~1 litre/100km difference between turbos. All else being the same.

Sure, but in the context, turbo efficiency was more pertinent.

More efficient turbine design requires less energy to drive it, or less fuel loading to get it to spool.
More efficient compressor provides higher volume intake charge at the same psi, and potentially across a broader engine RPM range, without heat penalty.

What else?

 

[mudgudgeon]

HX35

Compressor: 54/77mm
Turbine: 65/55mm
Turbine housing: Single entry T3 8cm

Even with 8cm exh. housing? Turbine is just a tad bigger than stock CT26.
What size compressors G-Turbo uses on his high output turbos?

It's a long way bigger than 1HD-FTE turbine.
Standard 1HD-T CT26 is kind of lazy in comparison.

The smaller turbine, and 6cm housing on the 1HD-FTE is responsible for a big chunk of the power upgrade from 1HD-T, to 1HD-FTE.
The 1HD-FTE turbo spools up 5-600rpm lower (conservative, probably more) than the 1HD-T CT26, and has more legs on the highway.

A big part of gturbo upgrade is also due to turbine and turbine housing size and design.

 

[HoJo 61]

Alright, thanks @Dougal and @mudgudgeon i'm still trying to learn more about turbos.

 

[GooSe77]

I gues the compressorcover from the supra won't fit ?

So to make the hdfte Turbo a direkt fit I would need this ... Compressor Housing 2.2" A/R.57 Mitsubishi 4D34T TD05 TD06 14G

 

[mudgudgeon]

I gues the compressorcover from the supra won't fit ?

So to make the hdfte Turbo a direkt fit I would need this ... Compressor Housing 2.2" A/R.57 Mitsubishi 4D34T TD05 TD06 14G

Supra compressor cover is a direct fit.

Check out my turbo build thread linked in my signature.
1HD-FTE turbo with supra compressor cover.

 

[GooSe77]

That's perfekt

 

[Dougal]

Sure, but in the context, turbo efficiency was more pertinent.

More efficient turbine design requires less energy to drive it, or less fuel loading to get it to spool.
More efficient compressor provides higher volume intake charge at the same psi, and potentially across a broader engine RPM range, without heat penalty.

What else?

The more efficient your compressor is the less shaft energy it requires to turn.
The more efficient your turbine is the less drive pressure (and flow) is requires to produce the same shaft power.
The less drive pressure you have the more power your engine will produce due to lower parasitics.
The less drive pressure you have the better your fuel economy will be.

It's a win everywhere.

 

[absalom]

I’m hoping @dan1554 will chime in with his Wink experiences soon

 

[dan1554]

There are some issues with fueling I need to work through before I can really speak to it. This weekend I will be completely detuning the cruiser to fight very rich fueling at idle, and working my way back to (clean) power. I will say this though, having the aneroid at the most agressive setting and the turbo at 18psi, I hardly ever see 900f. Intercooler is cold after long highway trips. It is much more efficient than the stock setup.

Tuning is going to take a while, especially since I exist in a vacuum of 1hdt knowledge (other than mud). So lots of trial and error.

 

[dan1554]

Gave it a hot supper doing 120kph over 10 miles of nearly 2000ft incline. Wink turbo does well. I saw 1100f max temps, and could not mash the throttle enough to get it hotter. No more watching EGTs. This is with the most aggressive stock aneroid setting. Its pretty clear that I am now limited by fuel. The turbo also spools quite a bit lower. 4th gear lockup is still a pain but not as much as it used to be. Seemed to be pretty evenly matched with the v8 100 series following me.

Only complaint is the turbo is nearly silent. But that's probably the sound of efficiency.

 

[Dougal]

Gave it a hot supper doing 120kph over 10 miles of nearly 2000ft incline. Wink turbo does well. I saw 1100f max temps, and could not mash the throttle enough to get it hotter. No more watching EGTs. This is with the most aggressive stock aneroid setting. Its pretty clear that I am now limited by fuel. The turbo also spools quite a bit lower. 4th gear lockup is still a pain but not as much as it used to be. Seemed to be pretty evenly matched with the v8 100 series following me.

Only complaint is the turbo is nearly silent. But that's probably the sound of efficiency.

What are your boost numbers? Intercooler upgraded or stock? Any smoke? Where is your EGT probe and how long is it?

Yes silence is a sign of compressor efficiency. My current turbo is buggered and noisier than the engine.

 

[dan1554]

18psi, hpd front mount, egt pre-turbo, not sure on length. No smoke that I can tell at full boost, but I have to be careful with the throttle off the line and the very low end of 4th gear lockup. Might just require some more tuning.

 

[DancesWithMutts]

18psi, hpd front mount, egt pre-turbo, not sure on length. No smoke that I can tell at full boost, but I have to be careful with the throttle off the line and the very low end of 4th gear lockup. Might just require some more tuning.

I'm gonna need a ride in this.

 

[DancesWithMutts]

The reason why I wan't to stick to that hybrid is chash only. Getting a supra CHRA and the small turbine housing will cost 500€, everthing else I have seen is twice the price .... But I understand what you mean - better desing, better effiency ( less fuel ? ), better performance, more fun

The downside is that it does not look like the original .....

I like your reasoning. I am almost happy with the power from my current setup. I just wish I could hold 4th up some of the mountain passes here. A hybrid setup that spools lower seems like a good cost/performance place to be.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I like your reasoning. I am almost happy with the power from my current setup. I just wish I could hold 4th up some of the mountain passes here. A hybrid setup that spools lower seems like a good cost/performance place to be.

Try putting up a Wanted to Buy ad for a stock, used 1HD-FTE turbo on lcool.org/forum, or offroad80s.com
Both popular Aussie based landcruiser forums.
Or on the 1HD-T, 1HZ upgrade facebook page if you're that way inclined.

I picked up my 1HD-FTE turbo for $300ish from a low mileage cruiser. The owner upgraded to a gturbo, my turbo turned up in a gturbo box

There's got to be loads of good 1HD-FTE turbos sitting on shelves in garages after upgrades.

 

[DancesWithMutts]

Try putting up a Wanted to Buy ad for a stock, used 1HD-FTE turbo on lcool.org/forum, or offroad80s.com
Both popular Aussie based landcruiser forums.
Or on the 1HD-T, 1HZ upgrade facebook page if you're that way inclined.

I picked up my 1HD-FTE turbo for $300ish from a low mileage cruiser. The owner upgraded to a gturbo, my turbo turned up in a gturbo box

There's got to be loads of good 1HD-FTE turbos sitting on shelves in garages after upgrades.

Really? I was looking all over ebay last night and coming up with nothing. I'll have to try this.

 

[absalom]

Gave it a hot supper doing 120kph over 10 miles of nearly 2000ft incline. Wink turbo does well. I saw 1100f max temps, and could not mash the throttle enough to get it hotter. No more watching EGTs. This is with the most aggressive stock aneroid setting. Its pretty clear that I am now limited by fuel. The turbo also spools quite a bit lower. 4th gear lockup is still a pain but not as much as it used to be. Seemed to be pretty evenly matched with the v8 100 series following me.

Only complaint is the turbo is nearly silent. But that's probably the sound of efficiency.

With regard to lockup, don’t be afraid to ring her out in 3rd. Apparently, trans temps will stop climbing above 3k rpms. She should only go into OD when there isn’t a demand for power.

 

[dan1554]

I'm gonna need a ride in this.

PM me if you want to meet up some weekend. Would like to see another HDJ myself so I can compare a few things that I think might be issues with mine.

I like your reasoning. I am almost happy with the power from my current setup. I just wish I could hold 4th up some of the mountain passes here. A hybrid setup that spools lower seems like a good cost/performance place to be.

I could hold 4th with the stock turbo around 15psi and the HPD intercooler, generally at 110kph up to loveland pass. I was always watching the egts, and the turbo was borderline heat pump - intercooler was hot to the touch.

With regard to lockup, don’t be afraid to ring her out in 3rd. Apparently, trans temps will stop climbing above 3k rpms. She should only go into OD when there isn’t a demand for power.

Slow twisty inclines demand 3rd. That wholesale valve body is reaching for my wallet.

 

[absalom]

I bet!

Toyota 80 Series with 5 Speed A750 Tip-Tronic Auto - Wholesale Automatic Transmissions

Or could also consider an A442f electronic version swap, though it would never touch the effiency of the A750

 

[Nz Nath]

So I'm posting in here rather than starting a new thread, I want to upgrade the ct26 on my 3.4l 13bt. Of course the main goal is earlier boost, and maybe to run mid teens max boost.

What I think ive read in this thread is that the ct20b turbine wheel is a far better design than the ct26 wheels and more efficient. If my current turbine wheel is bigger and more suited to higher rpm boost, then the 1hdfte wheel would be a decent upgrade even with my small displacement engine?

I've took my turbo into the local diesel shop, and he wants to upgrade just the compressor wheel, with I think the 1hdfte item. This is the opposite of what I've read here.