- Thread starter
- #181
But that's what makes trips memorable, suffering and near death experiences! (Of others)
Build TDI-J70 - LJ70 TDI Swap (Erika)
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
- Start date
Member Builds and Stories
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
I bought all of my wiring from this guy... 2000 - 2003 VW 1.9L TDI ALH immobilizer delete service for ecu p/n: 03 - https://d-cparts.com/products/2000-2003-vw-1-9l-tdi-alh-immobilizer-delete-service-for-ecu-p-n-038906012
He sells ECUs with the immobilizer delete service for $75. If you hit the wall with getting your de-immobilized, he can hook you up.
- Thread starter
- #183
I should have just bought one with the immobilizer off already, but wanted the extra stuff as well. Was tempted to just order one of those but wouldn't arrive in time, and I've spent a bunch of money on this thing recently.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
I hear you. Money tends to fly away a little too fast. Stoked to see your truck running soon.
- Thread starter
- #185
They did manage to get the cable and get it done, paying out the a$$ not to have it shipped in to save time but with some luck it could be running tonight 
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Good luck, brother.They did manage to get the cable and get it done, paying out the a$$ not to have it shipped in to save time but with some luck it could be running tonight
- Thread starter
- #187
Called it a night, got pretty close but these loose ends are taking longer than I hoped.
Rear diff filled, brakes mostly bled (ran out of fluid), new wheels installed, heater cores flushed, clamps on all coolant lines, coolant mostly filled, charge and intake pipes installed.
To do list for tomorrow:
Idler spacer
Fuel filter
Get a can of diesel (gauge is reading empty, not sure if correct)
Wire up ECU trigger wire
Cross fingers and hope it fires
Rear diff filled, brakes mostly bled (ran out of fluid), new wheels installed, heater cores flushed, clamps on all coolant lines, coolant mostly filled, charge and intake pipes installed.
To do list for tomorrow:
Idler spacer
Fuel filter
Get a can of diesel (gauge is reading empty, not sure if correct)
Wire up ECU trigger wire
Cross fingers and hope it fires
- Thread starter
- #188
Today was a mix of victory and new issues to fix. Got the last of the small things done and went to prime the fuel lines, but just could not pull fuel from the tank. Ended up giving up from that for a while and got it started out of the fuel can. Starts and idles great, but for some reason it doesn't seem to be making boost. I for some reason assumed incorrectly that the N75 black line went to the boost port on the intake, forgetting there is a whole dang MAP sensor for the ECU to know what the boost pressure is. I am pretty sure now it is supposed to go to the air box, so need to decide how I'm tying that in.
I then started messing with the idler pulley bracket again. This thing is kicking my a$$, and I'm not sure what the deal is. I have it perfectly aligned with the alternator pulley, and the belt starts to just walk right off the idler as soon as I crank it over. I did notice that this pulley has just the slightest bit of play that the old one does not. I unfortunately can't use the old one as it was damaged on the engine. I may see if Cascade can ship me out a new one. But in the meantime, i experimented with drilling new holes to mount the pulley in different spots. Further out did not help. Moving it up did not help. I then made a hole to put the idler right up to the alternator pulley. Now I am able to start it without it falling off, but the belt still tries to slide out. It is RIGHT on the edge of the idler, the groove on the alternator pulley seems to be keeping it in check. The bracket does not seem to be deflecting when the belt is tightened, but it's a possibility. I made it out of 3/16 which seemed adequate to me, they guy I copied used 1/4. May try remaking with some 1/4. Going to look things over with fresh eyes tomorrow, but it's got me stumped. For now, it should be good enough for a test drive.
Clearance is clearance, right?
After running it with the belt on, I discovered that the engine now does not shut off when the ignition is turned off. I unplugged the alternator exciter wire and it shut off. Without that wire though, the alternator does not charge. So, that wire is working to turn on the alternator, but I think I need to find a new circuit to tap into for the ECU trigger wire. Or, find the correct exciter wire because I believe the battery light was staying on. I am currently using a fuse jumper on the "engine" fuse. Need something that stays on while cranking.
I then got back to the fuel priming. Wasted most of the day on this, ended up dropping the tank and it ended up being that the supply and return lines had been mixed up at the tank barbs. Hooked them back up correctly, and was finally able to prime fuel to the lift pump and get it running on its own fuel. In the process of doing this I found some issues to fix with the filler neck, there are a number of lines that seem to do nothing that are rusted out. Need to cap one or two and fix some rust issues on it.
Got the coolant burped, but it's running pretty cool and couldn't hardly get it over 190 so will need to drive it some to test the fan. Power steering works. I think tomorrow I will bleed the brakes, clean up a few things and try taking it for a spin.
I then started messing with the idler pulley bracket again. This thing is kicking my a$$, and I'm not sure what the deal is. I have it perfectly aligned with the alternator pulley, and the belt starts to just walk right off the idler as soon as I crank it over. I did notice that this pulley has just the slightest bit of play that the old one does not. I unfortunately can't use the old one as it was damaged on the engine. I may see if Cascade can ship me out a new one. But in the meantime, i experimented with drilling new holes to mount the pulley in different spots. Further out did not help. Moving it up did not help. I then made a hole to put the idler right up to the alternator pulley. Now I am able to start it without it falling off, but the belt still tries to slide out. It is RIGHT on the edge of the idler, the groove on the alternator pulley seems to be keeping it in check. The bracket does not seem to be deflecting when the belt is tightened, but it's a possibility. I made it out of 3/16 which seemed adequate to me, they guy I copied used 1/4. May try remaking with some 1/4. Going to look things over with fresh eyes tomorrow, but it's got me stumped. For now, it should be good enough for a test drive.
Clearance is clearance, right?
After running it with the belt on, I discovered that the engine now does not shut off when the ignition is turned off. I unplugged the alternator exciter wire and it shut off. Without that wire though, the alternator does not charge. So, that wire is working to turn on the alternator, but I think I need to find a new circuit to tap into for the ECU trigger wire. Or, find the correct exciter wire because I believe the battery light was staying on. I am currently using a fuse jumper on the "engine" fuse. Need something that stays on while cranking.
I then got back to the fuel priming. Wasted most of the day on this, ended up dropping the tank and it ended up being that the supply and return lines had been mixed up at the tank barbs. Hooked them back up correctly, and was finally able to prime fuel to the lift pump and get it running on its own fuel. In the process of doing this I found some issues to fix with the filler neck, there are a number of lines that seem to do nothing that are rusted out. Need to cap one or two and fix some rust issues on it.
Got the coolant burped, but it's running pretty cool and couldn't hardly get it over 190 so will need to drive it some to test the fan. Power steering works. I think tomorrow I will bleed the brakes, clean up a few things and try taking it for a spin.
- Thread starter
- #189
Update:
It runs.
It drives!
It even stops. Kind of.
This morning I removed the barb from the EGR delete manifold, drilled and threaded a hole in the air box and moved it there for the n75. I now believe I need to add a check valve to one of the vacuum lines, will be looking into that tonight.
I then patched up the fuel filler neck. I will need to make a new one eventually. The overflow drain was not hooked up to the tank and had some pinholes, so welded it shut. Will need to be more careful fueling up until I make a new filler neck. The vent currently consists of fuel line running up to a fuel filter at the top of the neck. This will also need attention, eventually... There are 2 lines coming off the side of the tank that currently are looped together with a piece of fuel line, but they appear to have run to some weird tube thing on the filler neck. Going to ignore that for now.
I was then ready for a test ride around the block, and just my luck the city parade was starting, blocking my only side street access... Other option was to immediately merge on to he highway, which I wasn't going to do lol.
After the crowds dwindled, went for a spin around the block. Everything felt great, considering I had no power steering. The brakes may need additional bleeding, but I'm thinking I may need to upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder out of a 2nd gen 4Runner. I believe they recommended that for the rear caliper conversion due to being higher capacity. But, it stops. Maybe not well enough for an emergency stop though. Will be playing with that.
I am taking it easy driving it, I am waiting for a VCDS cable to arrive Tuesday to do pump timing. But, I set everything with the locks which should put it pretty close. But so far today the GF, Dad, and uncle who has had a number of Landcruisers have gotten rides around town. The FJ may not see many miles this summer once it's reliable
I then took another look at the idler. I decided to try using the original tensioner idler, as it is slightly bigger and has a center groove that may help keep the belt centered. No difference. I then finally put a ruler across the belts and found the idler is sticking out due to deflection from tightening the belt. So tonight, I remade the bracket with 1/4 stock that I forgot I had and would have used originally had I known, and now it's rock solid. I think I am going to stick with this idler, but the mount hole is the same between the two so I can use either.
So this leaves me now with figuring out the exciter wire for the alternator. I see now there is a "charge" circuit on the fuse box. I believe this is what I need. I have no idea what the wire I used for the exciter is for, it originally hooked up to the old voltage regulator so it was a bit of a gamble if it was the right one. But now I think it's actually part of the "engine" circuit, which as I write this now would make sense as it was blowing that fuse before when grounded. I will investigate this tomorrow.
It runs.
It drives!
It even stops. Kind of.
This morning I removed the barb from the EGR delete manifold, drilled and threaded a hole in the air box and moved it there for the n75. I now believe I need to add a check valve to one of the vacuum lines, will be looking into that tonight.
I then patched up the fuel filler neck. I will need to make a new one eventually. The overflow drain was not hooked up to the tank and had some pinholes, so welded it shut. Will need to be more careful fueling up until I make a new filler neck. The vent currently consists of fuel line running up to a fuel filter at the top of the neck. This will also need attention, eventually... There are 2 lines coming off the side of the tank that currently are looped together with a piece of fuel line, but they appear to have run to some weird tube thing on the filler neck. Going to ignore that for now.
I was then ready for a test ride around the block, and just my luck the city parade was starting, blocking my only side street access... Other option was to immediately merge on to he highway, which I wasn't going to do lol.
After the crowds dwindled, went for a spin around the block. Everything felt great, considering I had no power steering. The brakes may need additional bleeding, but I'm thinking I may need to upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder out of a 2nd gen 4Runner. I believe they recommended that for the rear caliper conversion due to being higher capacity. But, it stops. Maybe not well enough for an emergency stop though. Will be playing with that.
I am taking it easy driving it, I am waiting for a VCDS cable to arrive Tuesday to do pump timing. But, I set everything with the locks which should put it pretty close. But so far today the GF, Dad, and uncle who has had a number of Landcruisers have gotten rides around town. The FJ may not see many miles this summer once it's reliable
I then took another look at the idler. I decided to try using the original tensioner idler, as it is slightly bigger and has a center groove that may help keep the belt centered. No difference. I then finally put a ruler across the belts and found the idler is sticking out due to deflection from tightening the belt. So tonight, I remade the bracket with 1/4 stock that I forgot I had and would have used originally had I known, and now it's rock solid. I think I am going to stick with this idler, but the mount hole is the same between the two so I can use either.
So this leaves me now with figuring out the exciter wire for the alternator. I see now there is a "charge" circuit on the fuse box. I believe this is what I need. I have no idea what the wire I used for the exciter is for, it originally hooked up to the old voltage regulator so it was a bit of a gamble if it was the right one. But now I think it's actually part of the "engine" circuit, which as I write this now would make sense as it was blowing that fuse before when grounded. I will investigate this tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #191
It does, may be doing wrong order but started at furthest from MC and worked back a few times. Fronts I know are fine. I still think it could benefit from upgrading the booster and mc with the extra fluid capacity of the new calipers.
I think you do the valve first, then the axle?
Google it. There's a thread on here in the 80 section. I just helped one of my employees with an 80 replace a leaky valve and bleed everything out.
And really, you're probably right and the booster isn't up to the task. I'd bet its the same one that matt has though. Somebody on here will know better than me. My 40 has an 80 booster in it for whatever that's worth. But I dont have rear disc either. I've got the newer style drums that you took off.
- Thread starter
- #193
So looks like the 4Runners and pickups the disk brake conversion were intended for had 13/16" master cylinder bores, and looks like my 70 has a 15/16" bore. So fluid capacity should be ok, booster upgrade should still be worth it. I'm guessing there is still air in the lines though.
Depending on the style of master cylinder your LJ has a non-ABS 80-series dual diaphragm booster could bolt right in. I've got one on my LJ78 and it works great, just had to modify the brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the bracket on the inner fender.
I can get you a photo of the VW vacuum diagram if that would help. My ALH didn't have a check valve on any of the lines to the N75 and it worked fine.
Does your engine harness not have an alternator exciter built in? On both my TDI swaps I've used the VW harness for everything alternator related. Somehow my charge light still worked as intended, probably just through the charge fusible link still being attached to the battery.
- Thread starter
- #196
I believe I found the scanned wiring manual at some point, will see if I can find that again. The harness I had to go with did not have any alternator wires, so basically the ECU won't bump idle up for it and I'm on my own for the exciter. The idle issue doesn't really matter since I don't have AC.
- Thread starter
- #197
So looking at this, I think I used the correct exciter wire (pretty sure it was black with yellow stripe), but the engine and charge circuits appear to be linked? So, may need to fine a new fuse to use for the ECU trigger because when I shut the ignition off, the alternator is still turning and I guess back feeding power to the engine circuit and keeping the ECU on and engine running. Need one that stays powered while cranking. Or, maybe a diode on the exciter wire? But maybe that wouldn't keep the warning light off then.
- Thread starter
- #199
Diode is on the way. In the meantime, my VCDS adapter came early, so I got the IP timed. At first I thought it wasn't working, but then noticed it was so retarded it was off the graph. Not unlike myself. Anyways, this should do. My understanding is slightly advanced is preferred for clean burn and mpg.
Then did a 2-person brake bleed, and there was indeed a bunch of air in the new rear calipers that just wasn't getting pushed out with the 1-man method. Took it for a 10 mile loop and the brakes feel MUCH better. Going to hold off on the booster upgrade. Got it up to about 110 km/hr and it seems happy. After I fix the alternator wire tomorrow, it'll pretty much be good to go. I did find a coolant leak from a loose clamp, and there is a small slow oil leak I need to find. But otherwise, starting to build some confidence in it.
On the drive I did find that the turn signals would randomly go off faintly, need to figure that out now too.
I tried putting the spare on, needs a spacer to fit. When I went to put one on, I realized the carrier isn't even bolted on the bottom. This carrier doesn't seem to match the door. This probably has something to do with the spare doors it came with. They are currently buried so can't check. There is no structure where the bottom holes line up, so not going to just drill new ones. Spare will have to live in the back for now.
Then did a 2-person brake bleed, and there was indeed a bunch of air in the new rear calipers that just wasn't getting pushed out with the 1-man method. Took it for a 10 mile loop and the brakes feel MUCH better. Going to hold off on the booster upgrade. Got it up to about 110 km/hr and it seems happy. After I fix the alternator wire tomorrow, it'll pretty much be good to go. I did find a coolant leak from a loose clamp, and there is a small slow oil leak I need to find. But otherwise, starting to build some confidence in it.
On the drive I did find that the turn signals would randomly go off faintly, need to figure that out now too.
I tried putting the spare on, needs a spacer to fit. When I went to put one on, I realized the carrier isn't even bolted on the bottom. This carrier doesn't seem to match the door. This probably has something to do with the spare doors it came with. They are currently buried so can't check. There is no structure where the bottom holes line up, so not going to just drill new ones. Spare will have to live in the back for now.