Tailgate Rust... How should I deal with it? (1 Viewer)

[Slashzero]

So, I bought a 2003 LC last week.

196,600 miles on it. It spent most of its life in Vermont (1st owner), then 3 - 4 years in Illinois (2nd owner), and finally is now mine. The last owner had receipts showing the belt etc was replaced at 140k. The service records on Toyota.com/owners shows it was serviced regularly. I haven’t replaced the heater Ts yet, and I’m wondering if I should also be replacing the hoses.



Now, about the rust...

I’m in the Northeast, so I was concerned about rust, which this truck doesn’t seem to have much of on the body.

The Fuel Tank Skid Plate is pretty much gone (rusted/rotted... and I have a replacement on the way from CA), and the front skid plate has some rust and a few holes, but I’m not in a rush to replace it.

The only place I see rust that worries me is at the bottom of the rear hatch. I took it to a guy that I trust who does body work, and he told me I should just try to clean it up, and cover it with undercoat or paint.

Now, I’m curious to know what you guys think. Is this just a simple scrape, sand and paint job?

I have a new handle mechanism, and ordered a handle. Note from the pics this assembly/mechanism is also rusty, which is probably why the handle is missing. I need to figure out how to get in there and replace it.

Bottom of rear hatch: most of the rust is around the handle and license plate lights. Sorry about the bad lighting.

The area around the handle (you can see the handle itself is missing):

And around the license plate lights:

The bottom / tailgate has some rust but I’m guessing it could be treated the same way? Scrape / sand / cover with undercoating?

Suggestions on how to best deal with this rust are appreciated! Also any ideas where the water could be getting in from? This truck is missing the rear spoiler, if it matters.

 

[Rad26rio]

I had this exact issue but not to the degree you have. Water is coming through rear brake light cover panel. This is the panel put over the rear brake light spot when they moved the actual light to the spoiler from the lift gate itself. The gasket is a porous foam and lets water through (some engineer ought to be beaten).

I removed the cover, used silicone to seal it back and then tore apart the hatch to replace the latch. I have also since replaced that torsion spring assembly that acts as a counterweight for the tailgate. PM me a cell number and I can walk you through the fix if you’d like, too much to type. I am EDT.

 

[Slashzero]

I had this exact issue but not to the degree you have. PM me a cell number and I can walk you through the fix if you’d like, too much to type. I am EDT.

Thanks! I will probably look to tackle this in the next few weeks, or sooner. I’m too worried about it spreading further.

I might be making a run to the parts store to start collecting materials / tools. Do you have a list of tools / materials you used to repair yours?

Looks like I will need to open up the hatch to install my rear view camera anyway, so maybe I can kill two birds with one wrench.

 

[FLWookie]

mine looks like that a year ago. now the whole pinch seam has rusted through and is almost non-existent. time for a new upper (and lower) hatch for me.

 

[ibrahim83]

Sorry to say but your rust has started inside and is making it's way out now. It's too late to fix. Replace it and be done with it.

 

[Slashzero]

mine looks like that a year ago. now the whole pinch seam has rusted through and is almost non-existent. time for a new upper (and lower) hatch for me.

Sorry to say but your rust has started inside and is making it's way out now. It's too late to fix. Replace it and be done with it.

This is basically what the body work guy I took it to said. He said I’d be wasting money to have him “fix it”, as he would not guarantee his work (the rust would just come back). He could make it look good but at this point I should just clean it up, and paint on some undercoat. He pointed out the pinch seam, and how there was likely rust between/inside, and in a year or two it would fall apart.

He also said I should think of this car as a 95 year old person. Sure they are perfectly fine today, but could unexpectedly die tomorrow.

He doesn’t realize I’ve named this car after Aragorn (Strider), who is part of the Dúnedain.

So, where can I get a new rear hatch (metallic green)? How do I prevent this from happening again?

 

[FxFormat]

Oh man that looks bad, gotta dismantle everything and go crazy with wirebrush, get all the rust off then paint it with POR15

 

[Slashzero]

Oh man that looks bad, gotta dismantle everything and go crazy with wirebrush, get all the rust off then paint it with POR15

That’s what I was thinking. It’s either that or replace the hatch, right?

The question is, which is the better approach? Repair repaint seems like the cost effective method (in terms of money, but will take lots of time and effort) while replacing the hatch seems like it will cost much more. Maybe I can find a hatch off eBay / used, but then I’d have to pay someone to paint it.

I want to care for this car myself, which is another reason I bought it as a second vehicle, and am willing to learn. I’m handy, but new to car maintenance and repair.

 

[FLWookie]

My plan is to get a new hatch and rhino line it completely. So what if it doesn't match the rest of the truck. It's always got stuff bouncing off it, pulling on it, leaning on it, etc. Probably better if it has some protection.

 

[geanes]

New hatch time....as mentioned above. I don't see any way to rectify the current hatch. Just know that with a new hatch, you should make sure the 3rd brake light is sealed up real good. That tends to be the weak point for water intrusion. RTV Silicone is a fantastic fix. I did that on mine and added plenty to every roof mounting bolt on my rack.

 

[FxFormat]

Yeah remove the 3rd brake light and put a bead of silicone around the housing then put it back on. That’s where water enters. Check the upper part of the hatch for any holes that might’ve rusted through and ingesting water. I didn’t want to spent money on a new hatch so I just wire brushed the rust away and primed it and then wrap it with vinyl.

 

[Reg Wang]

Finally found this thread. The only thing that stopped me from buying a used 100 series was this upper tailgate rust. When you can see the bubble/rust, it means the inside is already rusted, when you don't, probably the same just not yet. So much for Toyota engineering. Very commonly there's a rust spot above the gate latch. I guess it's all coming from the third brake light bar moulding?
The 200 series gate is designed differently now, with a push button, but my LX570 has a spoiler sticking out, so I'm not sure if the ones without the spoiler also has porous 3rd bake light surround?

 

[Kmonty66]

My lower tailgate has some rust issues so I just sourced one from @Cruiser Corps (great to deal with). I had read that silicone was bad for things like this (petroleum product)...I would try and replace the porous gasket with one thats not. I purchased flat pieces of rubber varied thickness and just cut my own. Good luck.

 

[implayaz9]

Sorry to bring this thread back allive but can these lines be replaced?., Mine looks very similar to this.

 

[Kmonty66]

I think that is the spring tensioner for the tailgate to keep it from just dropping open. Mine looks about the same. I was just looking at mine today!

 

[bentonrover]

Sorry to bring this thread back allive but can these lines be replaced?., Mine looks very similar to this.
View attachment 2034809

I would try to clean it up and buy a can of fluid film.

 

[skshepherd]

Does anyone know if the lx 470 upper hatch is a direct replacement for the 100 series? Thanks.

 

[skshepherd]

Does anyone know if the lx 470 upper hatch is a direct replacement for the 100 series? Thanks.

Ok, the search was my friend, it seems the tops or upper lid is interchangeable. Hopefully, this will help someone else.

 

[Pucker5]

I get changing it if the door opening mechanism breaks off or you have Water leaking in the cabin or rust that is now visible when the door is shut but if you are eventually going to replace it and rhino line a new one why not just fix the seal, spray some Eastwood rust neutralizer in the cavity and let it ride out till it’s making the truck look ugly or falls apart?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I get changing it if the door opening mechanism breaks off or you have Water leaking in the cabin or rust that is now visible when the door is shut but if you are eventually going to replace it and rhino line a new one why not just fix the seal, spray some Eastwood rust neutralizer in the cavity and let it ride out till it’s making the truck look ugly or falls apart?

That seems like the general rule with rust... it wants to kill your car, it's just a matter of slowing it down