Swing and a miss - KDSS valves

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ElJayBird

ElJayBird

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I was all set to install my new suspension yesterday but couldn’t get the KDSS valve screws to budge. They’re completely seized. I soaked it in PB blaster for a while but so far no luck. I’m considering taking it into Toyota to have them do it. I’m worried about damaging the screws or breaking an allen key. Any ideas?
 
ElJayBird said:
I was all set to install my new suspension yesterday but couldn’t get the KDSS valve screws to budge. They’re completely seized. I soaked it in PB blaster for a while but so far no luck. I’m considering taking it into Toyota to have them do it. I’m worried about damaging the screws or breaking an allen key. Any ideas?
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Unless you’re in a rush, have patience. Mine were seized up as well, sprayed them daily over the course of about a week and they finally broke free. Make sure to use a good quality t handle or socket based Allen bit, you don’t want the hassle of stripping those bad boys. Good luck, and once you do get them loose, grease liberally.
 
In a desperate situation, I have used a little bit of heat on the outer part, then hit the fastener with a compressed air can turned upside down so it squirts very cold liquid to shrink it rapidly. Several cycles.
 
As noted by @Tommy Dwyer , PB Blaster takes some time. I’m not sure time will be your answer, but it’s worth a try. The dealer will want to replace parts and that will get expensive fast.
 
You can install your lift without adjusting the KDSS screws it will just be much more difficult to get bolt holes to line back up. I installed the lift of my wifes GX470 without adjusting the KDSS valve screws because I couldn't find the screws to adjust the system. I used a jack under the front KDSS cylinder and slowly pushed it up to get things to align on the passenger side. No reason it can't be done on a 200, although you will get conflicting replies it can be done and you won't die.
 
KLF said:
In a desperate situation, I have used a little bit of heat on the outer part, then hit the fastener with a compressed air can turned upside down so it squirts very cold liquid to shrink it rapidly. Several cycles.
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I would be very careful with heat - not sure how the O-Ring seals would like it:

KDSS_Valve_10FEB16_zps2zef7kwu.jpg


Better to stick with chemical/mechanical means, IMHO.

HTH
 
Well... that's why I said "a little bit". Like, use a heat gun, not a torch. You're looking for maximum delta T.
 
Try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone. It works much better than PB Blaster.
 
Also, consider grinding the bevel off the end of your hex bit, so you get as much purchase as possible.
 
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not to scare you but I used PB Blaster for a couple of weeks before I changed my shocks out. one of the valves loosened up the other did not, and i broke the bit off in the valve and had to have a nut welded to open it. TIG did not hold, it had to be MIG welded. If that happens to you look for a auto or muffler shop, they use MIG. As stated above use a good quality bit, mine was a cheaper one from Lowes or Home Depot and snapped off flush and couldn't be removed. Good luck
 
I had a local shop over tighten one of my valves a few years back. it was a jeep shop so i forgive their ignorance - ha. at home I snapped a hex key off in the valve head, fun. I ended up carefully drilling the broken hex key bit out and using the next larger size hex key along with a bit of BFH persuasion. that got the job done. NO welding needed.
 
Just a few pieces of advice....
  • Patience - apply the penetrant of your choice, let it sit, keep hitting it with fluid.
  • Heat - a little heat from a very small torch, like the kind a crackhead would use to smoke rocks with, will help the penetrating oil go into the threads. I wouldn't go ape with the MAPP or Acetylene.
  • Clean the valve prior to attempting - wire brush all the schmutz off the outside of it.
  • Sometimes tightening the screws slightly before loosening will get them moving
  • Put a bit in the screw and hit it with a hammer into the valve - this will help shock the threads and keep them moving.
  • Go get a good 3/8" drive bit. I would get a Snap-On. One loose socket can be ordered on-line from Snap On for around $10 and thats a whole lot cheaper than any other option. You can still break a Snap-On but its a lot less likely than a Harbor Freight.
 
ArnieC said:
Go get a good 3/8" drive bit. I would get a Snap-On. One loose socket can be ordered on-line from Snap On for around $10 and thats a whole lot cheaper than any other option. You can still break a Snap-On but its a lot less likely than a Harbor Freight.
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All good advice but especially this. 3/8 drive will better resist the extensions and tools acting like a torsion spring and transmit the increased force directly to the bolt, and a high quality tool like snap-on doesn’t matter in a lot of cases but this is one where it does.

Also put significant upward force into the tool while trying to loosen. This can help prevent the bit trying to walk out.
 
To add, get a pick and make sure the hex socket is clean and empty before you try and torque on it hard. A wire brush wouldn't hurt. If the hex isn't engaged fully to the bottom, good chance you'll strip it. This goes for pretty much any hex or torx you encounter, though not that common on Toyotas (only a few from what I recall). I learned the importance of cleaning the hard way many-a-years ago.
 
ElJayBird said:
Success! I was able to get both bolts free today. I’ve just been soaking them in PB blaster since my original post. I coated the threads with anti-seize and then coated the rest in LPS 3. Now onto the Dobinsons kit...
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WOOO! Congrats!
 
Whew! I can breathe again. :bounce: Sure is a lot of good advice on stuck fasteners in this thread! The wisdom of experience is showing in this crowd.
 
Nice work!!
 
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