Swing and a miss - KDSS valves

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If you need more distance from face of valve I suggest a standard 3 or 6 inch socket extension as it won't twist like a 5mm long allen unit would. There are impact drivers that one strikes with a hammer to loosen stuck fasteners but I would caution not swinging for a home run on them. There are several of potential solutions, most of which can make things worse if used wrong. Seems like everyone eventually succeeds though. Who knows the system my even it's self out.
 
That makes sense, use my 3/8" extensions, instead of extending the actual allen bit. Thanks for the tip, hopefully i can still cancel that order at snap on.
 
DPA200 said:
@RET2 is this what I'm looking for?

Amazon product ASIN B001DKPTAM
I was able to cancel my original SnapOn order.
Click to expand...

Yes. Use 3/8” extensions instead of 1/4. Also any upward force to keep the bit from walking out. Putting light upward pressure with a floor jack isn’t out of the question.

Also depending on your resources some heat on the lower end of the valve body could help with seizing. Obviously you want to be careful with this, given the internal pressure and likely rubber seals at the other end of the screws. Bringing a cross sectional diagram to someone good worth working metal would be my strategy if sheer force/persistence didn’t get the job done in my driveway.

Edit: RET2’s idea of the hammer-impact driver is a very good one. It gives you inward/upward force along with a shock of torque at the same time. Get some practice on something else first though. Brake rotor hat to hub face screws are another use for this tool.
 
bloc said:
Yes. Use 3/8” extensions instead of 1/4. Also any upward force to keep the bit from walking out. Putting light upward pressure with a floor jack isn’t out of the question.

Also depending on your resources some heat on the lower end of the valve body could help with seizing. Obviously you want to be careful with this, given the internal pressure and likely rubber seals at the other end of the screws. Bringing a cross sectional diagram to someone good worth working metal would be my strategy if sheer force/persistence didn’t get the job done in my driveway.

Edit: RET2’s idea of the hammer-impact driver is a very good one. It gives you inward/upward force along with a shock of torque at the same time. Get some practice on something else first though. Brake rotor hat to hub face screws are another use for this tool.
Click to expand...
One of those resin head mallets
 
To be clear when I referred to the jack I meant while actually trying to loosen the screws. The jack can provide constant upward force to keep the bit from walking itself out.
 
Like has been said, clean the outer edges of the hex head with a pick. Spray, soak and clean inside that groove.

Look at the tools in my pic some posts above. Get a tap and gently tap inside the hex head and carefully around the edges of the screw. And spray again.

Rinse and repeat.
 
I don't understand how you can get a tap on any threads when the fastener head is flush with the surface. Could you say a few more words about how you used the tap in this process?
 
CharlieS said:
I don't understand how you can get a tap on any threads when the fastener head is flush with the surface. Could you say a few more words about how you used the tap in this process?
Click to expand...
FWIW, I'm guessing he means a punch, something to "tap" on the affected area to try and break the fastener free from corrosion.
 
Well my patience was wearing thin on day 6, didn't want to wait to order a snap on bit so i went to Ace and got the most expensive one they had, a $8 craftsmen 3/8" version. When i got home, I still took it super gentle, assuming it would still be stuck. i cleaned the hex hole, and applied upward pressure as i gently tried again. Boom...both broke free! So for me, 6 days of Free All spray and a toothbrush was all i used in the end. I bought a small tap too, but didn't end up needing it. Also never found my wire brush collection.

Thanks all for the advice and hope that it just takes patience. I'll make sure to apply some protectant so this doesn't happen again. Side note, in this struggle i realized my KDSS metal protectant cover is completely missing, has been for who knows how long, i just noticed. Does anybody have the part number and/or name of this? My truck is a 08 if it makes a difference.

IMG_1387.webp
 
DPA200 said:
Well my patience was wearing thin on day 6, didn't want to wait to order a snap on bit so i went to Ace and got the most expensive one they had, a $8 craftsmen 3/8" version. When i got home, I still took it super gentle, assuming it would still be stuck. i cleaned the hex hole, and applied upward pressure as i gently tried again. Boom...both broke free! So for me, 6 days of Free All spray and a toothbrush was all i used in the end. I bought a small tap too, but didn't end up needing it. Also never found my wire brush collection.

Thanks all for the advice and hope that it just takes patience. I'll make sure to apply some protectant so this doesn't happen again. Side note, in this struggle i realized my KDSS metal protectant cover is completely missing, has been for who knows how long, i just noticed. Does anybody have the part number and/or name of this? My truck is a 08 if it makes a difference.

View attachment 2132290
Click to expand...
See it's like others have said one of the best tools to use for this application is patience. A little Never Seize on any exposed threads woudln't hurt either. You will most likely never loosen them again but will sleep better. Congrats on your success!!
 
Cover: 48826-60020
Bolts(need 3): 91674-80818

You’ll probably want to run a M8-1.25 blind hole tap in to the holes to clean the threads and use anti seize. The middle one will have similar materials to the bottom that likes to corrode heavily, the others will be better but could probably use cleaning based on what your valve looks like.
 
bloc said:
Cover: 48826-60020
Bolts(need 3): 91674-80818

You’ll probably want to run a M8-1.25 blind hole tap in to the holes to clean the threads and use anti seize. The middle one will have similar materials to the bottom that likes to corrode heavily, the others will be better but could probably use cleaning based on what your valve looks like.
Click to expand...
i just ordered from toyotapartsdeal. Cover was only $40, so not too bad. Thanks for the info, i was coming up blank trying to find that part number!
 
Finally got the 2nd KDSS valve free!

My mechanic advised "lots of heat and a impact wrench". Unfortunately they had to fight with installing the lift kit (IRONMAN FOAM CELL PRO 2" lift kit) before the valves were loosened. My truck looked like a twisted mess when it was sitting on the garage floor. The front right was compressed all the way down to the tire and the left rear was sticking straight up in the air! They decided to take another wack at the valve and finally broke it free.
So far I am liking the feel of the new suspension however the rear is sitting a little higher than I would like. I am going to take it back in a couple of weeks and see if they can bring the front up another inch (if there is any adjustment left) or I may have to go with a shorter rear spring?

Measurements taken from the top of the wheel well to the ground:
Front right = stock 35" lifted 37"
Front left = stock 34.5" lifted 37"
Rear right = stock 36.5" lifted 39.25"
Rear left = stock 36" lifted 39"
 
I posted this a few years ago - glad to see the same methods are still working!
I can't say enough about Kroil - I swear my KDSS valves snickered at me the first time I sprayed them with PB Blaster...
forum.ih8mud.com

KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...

As several folks here have discovered, the KDSS cast housings are prone to rust (this is possibly the understatement of the year). The valves - which need to be opened in order to level a vehicle while installing a suspension upgrade - are conveniently located in the place most vulnerable to...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
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