STLCA 60 Series Club Thread (1 Viewer)

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as i recall the design on the seal from marlin was better and it fit better, not that the yota part may be bad...just seemed to be clear that there was a better product in the marketplace at least for the 60's...
 
I've been told the same thing as @jynx. I went OEM on my 80 and haven't had any issues.

Well, I've clearly stepped into a puddle. :poof: So I will retract my statement as it applies to the 60/62, but on the 80 series I believe the consensus is that OE seems to hold up better then the Marlin seals. I believe it has to do with the AWD vs PT. 60/40/mini/etc which are part-time seem to do fine with the marlin seals, but the 80 doesn't seem to care for them.
 
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I'm in need of a used wiper linkage ASY. The plastic swivel pieces that surround the brass spherical bearing on the motor arm fail which causes the sloppy wiper syndrome. There is another identical connection on the linkage that could be re-used to fix the motor end. Does anybody have one?
 
I don’t think I’ve introduced my new to me ‘82 60 here. I’ve had it about 3 months now. I bought it from a guy here on Mud. Truck spent most of its life in Texas and in the past few years has resided in Charleston.

I bought a cheap Southwest one way into Charleston and drove her back home 9 hours.

~277k miles when I picked it up, bone stock except an aftermarket head unit and rear speakers. The truck had virtually zero rust and the body and frame are in great condition. Sporting 28” tires, a nasty power steering leak and needs some TLC.

One of the first weeks I had it, I took it down to a customer meeting in Waynesboro and drove the Trace the whole way there. She drives great for her age and mileage.

Last week, I acquired an ‘89 FJ62 from another Mud member. Truck spent it’s life in the Midwest sadly and has a bunch of cancer, but I have good plans for it. I drove up to Cleveland, OH in a rental car this past weekend and drove this one back 8 hours (can you tell I like roadtrips?).

This week I took the front ARB and 33s off the 62 and swapped it onto my 60. I plan to take the rear Kaymar off the 62 and get it blasted and powder coated over Christmas and the put it on the 60.

More updates to follow...

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View attachment 1574953 Installed some new eyes for the 60. Pretty good price IMO ($50/pair).

Hey are those lights a direct bolt in? Does the retainer ring fit the bulb assembly correctly? I came up with some headlights based off a recommendation off one of the threads off the main forum, but for whatever reason the rings don't fit tight against the bulb (some minor fit difference).
 
Hey are those lights a direct bolt in? Does the retainer ring fit the bulb assembly correctly? I came up with some headlights based off a recommendation off one of the threads off the main forum, but for whatever reason the rings don't fit tight against the bulb (some minor fit difference).

Yes, fits perfect, no mods needed
 
Here’s a few updated pics of my 60. I pulled the rear Kaymar bumper off the tan 62 and sent it to PTS downtown to get sandblasted and powdercoated. Also,
pics from this weeks snow days.

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Where did you go ride? Cool bridge and low water crossings. Those on the dirt devil route or elsewhere?
 
Yes sir, we do.
 
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In the past I had a one wire alternator on my truck and it was a single wire custom CS144 alternator. A lot of the hot rods guys use these for simplicity. Well, I decided I wanted a stock CS144 alternator so that if I had alternator issues...no matter where I was I could get a replacement at autozone or anywhere else that fit a 1999 GM suv/pickup with 5.7 vortec (the CS-144 is the optional HD alternator). By the way one of the best GM alternators about there. at the time of this note, I've just tested the configuration and used some jumper wires and let the engine run about an hour or so. Two parts from Napa, one wire to sense battery voltage, one wire for ign on = 14.3 to 14.5 volts out the door...as i recall this is 140 amp alternator. No interface with dash or Toyota factory alt gauge or idiot light (my choice on this as I don't care about the stock gauge working. On the 5.7 vortec the CS 144 alternator mounts in the stock configuration with no alternation needed to the mounts. As I recall the stock alternator is a CS-130. Anyway I'll post pics up at a little later. Key notes...red wire goes to either alt output terminal or to battery (sense voltage), white wire goes to ign on source or for testing I just ran to battery. Good info on the pirate web site on GM alternators , I'll post a link to that and I found the part numbers for the napa parts from one of the online corvette forums. Can't speak to extended run time yet but so far things are good. More to follow in pics later today.

here are pics of the NAPA part numbers, and a pic of the vc80 harness, I'll take a pic of the other harness and post it up too (the one in that interfaces with this)as noted in the pn pic listed. This is one approach to get a stock type GM CS144 alternator up and running on your vehicle (in this instance) the dash gauge will not work, the configuration to get the dash guage to work is very similar but you have to ..."have" a wire that runs back to the dash... in my case since I have some aftermarket gauges I did not care about the dash gauge working.

look here
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world. down near the bottom of the document for some good wiring tips on GM alternators. Great info overall on alternators..(GM)... there is another related document in the tech section on pirate too.

I'll post some other links to parts that I've purchased but so far I've not used , but might work...I've just not been able to test them and since this works I don't think right now I'm going to screw with anything else on the alt wiring for now.

may want to check out this CS121, CS130, CS144 Regulator Plug Adapter 3-Terminal, wo/ Built-In Circuitry for adapting GM CS series alternator to GEO & Toyota vehicles with mating plug.

a google search toyota alternator adapter‏ - بحث Google‏

also may want to contact this source for some wiring solutions if you need something he makes/has fj40coolerman@gmail.com
Part 1
 
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part 2 Alt, here you see the MM readouts for each battery...they are a little high but the truck has not been run for some time and the batteries were very low, later after running for a while voltage settled down to around 14.3 to 14.5. Notice the crap multi-meter from china with the craftsman name...
 
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part 3, this picture shows the two napa connectors plugged together. on the alt side which is not very clear the plug simply plugs into the alternator, then you see the other connector where the wire colors change to red and white. Of note...see the yellow wire where the black tape/heat shrink stuff is...there is a resistor in the harness there. Part numbers are in the pics above for the two harness plugs. (1) white wire is to be connected to ign on signal (2) red wire is to be connected to the primary battery or the alt output stud at the alternator to sense voltage output.

Use PN EC82 + VRC148 for using without alt guage or idiot light wiring
Use PN EC80 + VRC148 for using with factory alt guage or idiot light (EC80 does not have a resistor and requires wiring through the idiot light/alt guage.

*** my notes based on research and reviewing other forums. My notes on wiring I've illustrated only apply to the EC82+VRC148 combination. I've tested and will run this combination.

This is not the only way to do this and you could make your own wiring setup, you can buy the alt pig tails and rock auto and other places. So in summary, the two noted napa connectors plug into each other. (once both connectors plugged together) One end plugs into the CS144 alternator and the other end has the two wires (red)(white), white goes to ign on signal, red goes to bat or alt output stud...to sense voltage.

I've come across some other adapters that did not exist to my knowledge that long ago that interfaces with the gm alternator and then allows you to marry with the stock Toyota alt plug (round green plug). Since this setup works that I've noted here... I've not tested those other potential solutions.

Hope this may help others. You could use these two connectors to install a CS144 on the vehicle of your choice, in this configuration there is no interface with the stock Toyota dash or alt gauge/idiot light.
 
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some more interesting pictures
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2nd batch interesting pics
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the green OEM type alternator connectors are from fj40coolerman POC noted above. The part number box is related to the other alternator adapter that is is black in cooler that interfaces from GM alternator to toyota alt plug as shown. (good product from fjcoolerman) on the OEM style plugs.

I've not tested the black adapter plug so I can't confirm it works, but the web site noted above is the point of sale. I wish I would have known about these a long time ago...my wiring now is a little chopped up at this point. showing pics of stuff that might benefit others.
 
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I use the all rubber one that is about 10-12” tall. I think both O’Reillys and Auto Zone both carry them.
 
I've bought one but so far not installed it, it was a random buy so don't know how good....rubber duck
Likely i got it off amazon or somewhere, I can hunt it down and let you know the brand/model ...then you could test it to let me know :)

edit, I'll be messing around in the storage building this weekend, if I see the antenna I bought I'll post up whatever it is (brand/model), I'm fairly sure it came of amazon and had good reviews. I plan to install mine over on the driver's fender since I have my cb setup on the passenger side.
 
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