Starter Replacement and Header Swap

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R

rbrave

Joined
Apr 25, 2023
Threads
13
Messages
213
Location
Mid Atlantic
This week, I had a few scary sounds come from my starter when running errands in the deep cold. Failed starts, followed by screeching / grinding, and eventually starting like normal. In hopes that it’s not the starter, I swapped in a new AGM battery to replace a standard battery that was about four years old. So far so good, but now I have preventative starter replacement in the back of my mind when it warms up.

The starter replacement sounds like a lot of work. In the “while I’m in there” category I’m wondering if this is a good time to do headers as well, since I understand you basically are halfway or more there. Any insight from those that have done either/both jobs? Ideally I’d swap with the Doug Thorley and exhaust at the same time, if I can find the former.
 
I've replaced the starter in the 2UZ in a 100 and I've done headers on a 2UZ in a GX470. I don't think they overlapped much in terms of parts removal.

Headers were a bear. So was the starter, haha. Headers weren't too crazy in terms of the amount of work, but there are lots of hard to reach nuts. I recall needing to use my u-joint with an impact repeatedly.
 
Well my choice was made up for me! Having to do a starter next weekend, will deal with headers once it’s warm out… I’m now deep into the replacement videos and recognize why people say neither are “fun” operations…
 
If you need an excuse to get a top side creeper, this is the time.
 
Agreed on the above, no need to relate the two jobs. Unless, you have an exhaust leak, otherwise focus on jobs that become easier and are nearby when removing the intake manifold / getting at the starter.

Without going into too many details here are a few things to consider :
- Do your heater t's and hoses. These are in the rear of the engine and go into the firewall. Plenty of info on these forums on how-to and it'll be easier to access now. +5 points for the top side creeper mentioned above, always wish I had one of those
- You could consider doing your spark plugs and coils , depending on when they were last done , you'll probably have stuff out of the way and the driver side plugs will be easier to get to
- Any other cooling and vacuum lines running around can be inspected and you can consider replacing . I believe there is a bypass hose back there, again do some searching on the forums and you'll find more info. Some vac lines coming from power steering pump running around up there too
- I've seen mention of the need to replace the connector at the starter, be prepared for any old brittle connectors that might fail
- PCV valve + grommet and hose if needed
- Clean throttle body and MAF sensor / check air filter

-----
As for your original problem, Screeching / Grinding / and a few failed starts?
>> Is your vehicle used to the extreme cold, what temps are we talking here? When it gets really really cold around here, my power steering pump cries out for help for the first few seconds. I've experienced this on my cruiser, GX , and Highlander. I don't worry too much about it, idk
>> Make sure you check your serpentine belt and components that spin , screeching could be something failing in there
>> When you say failed starts, you turned the key and nothing happened at all ? and then it turned over after a few attempts??
 
Weather is in the mid teens during the day (MD) and single digits at night. Definitely out of the ordinary, maybe a couple weeks out of the year. The failed starts began as stalling out instead of full start, and now I hear starter noises like I'm turning the key while the engine is already running. While I’d love it to not be the starter, it seems unlikely to be anything else.

In the 30k I’ve owned this rig, the timing belt / water pump was done, heater Ts, plugs and a broken coil, radiator + belts / pulley / tensioner / hoses, and I just swapped batteries hoping it was a voltage issue. This doesn’t include the front end rebuild. The only non OEM part in it, so far as I’m aware, is the alternator.

I haven’t done the PCV, and will check out the hoses further back that I haven’t gotten to previously. Good suggestions - soon enough there won’t be anything else to replace…
 
rbrave said:
Weather is in the mid teens during the day (MD) and single digits at night. Definitely out of the ordinary, maybe a couple weeks out of the year. The failed starts began as stalling out instead of full start, and now I hear starter noises like I'm turning the key while the engine is already running. While I’d love it to not be the starter, it seems unlikely to be anything else.

In the 30k I’ve owned this rig, the timing belt / water pump was done, heater Ts, plugs and a broken coil, radiator + belts / pulley / tensioner / hoses, and I just swapped batteries hoping it was a voltage issue. This doesn’t include the front end rebuild. The only non OEM part in it, so far as I’m aware, is the alternator.

I haven’t done the PCV, and will check out the hoses further back that I haven’t gotten to previously. Good suggestions - soon enough there won’t be anything else to replace…
Click to expand...
Yeah I feel your pain, I've replaced just about everything under the hood at least once. Its always something, but its worth it to keep these vehicles road worthy. Don't you worry, there will always be broken parts to replace until the end of time lol


"The failed starts began as stalling out instead of full start, and now I hear starter noises like I'm turning the key while the engine is already running."
>> Interesting , stalling out doesn't necessarily mean a failing started. In my mind the starter did its job if the engine turned over and tried to start
>> But then you mentioned hearing starter noises while the engine is running, what do you mean, you hear it grinding and the starter engaging ?

Hard to say what you've got going on. It does seem like something in the starting circuit needs attention but hard to say.....

If you turn the key, and the engine turns over but then fails to start or stalls out, then your starter did its job and is probably OK
If you turn the key, and you hear clicks and no engine turn over, then your starter / starter circuit / key switch may be to blame
 
As mentioned above, the t-pieces for your heater are the parts you would do as it is now easier accessible.
The starter is a pain to get to, but not hard to do.
 
Heater T’s were done right after I got the truck.

The last 25% off sale made for 1,200 orders at Serra. Still waiting on my starter after ordering Jan 31, but they were good about prioritizing my order when I reached out yesterday to check status. They have a two week estimate on fulfilling all orders, but will prioritize those who need parts to get them back on the road. I will hopefully be able to do the swap this weekend - the starter is somehow it’s still hanging on, even if just barely.
 
OP. It's a good idea, to add your: Year, Make & Miles to signature line.

Keys, to start R&R (not year specific):
  1. Clean top of engine, spotless. Pay special attention to area around fuel injectors and along bottom of Intake Manifold (IM) where it meets/bolts to heads.
  2. Disconnect battery negetive cable.
  3. Remove the 10mm bolt, holding A/T main wire harness bracket to A/T. This allow the wire harness bracket and the 3 large wire harnesses attached to it. To move, allowing easier access to start bolt on driver side.
  4. R&R IM gaskets. Clean heads and IM gasket surfaces, spotless.
  5. Vacuum out every spec of dust from intake ports. get up on engine, to see into each intake port. Use a flashlight to clearly see into each port.
  6. Torque IM bolts in three stages, a little at a time. Using a cross pattern, working down to 13ft-lbf.

Consider:
  • R&R of water bypass joints front and rear, gaskets (4). I do on request as PM, or if any leak suspected.
  • R&R Throttle Body (TB) gasket. I typical unbolt TB and just leave in place. This reduce weight of IM. I clean TB throat & butterfly, before reattaching to IM
  • Have wire housing block on-hand. The lock clip almost always breaks.
98-07 start single wire housing block. Lock clip almost always breaks these days.
Starter 2001 2UZ-fe engine 007.webp
Statrer wire housing connector (1).webp

BTW: Any wire housing blocks needed. Look closely at for a 5 digit number. Add prefix 90980-*****


VVTi 06-07
019.webp
020.webp
021.webp

2001LC

Thread 'S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!'

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW!

I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;)

This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
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Also get a new gasket
 
Really appreciate all the input! I’ll be tackling this on Saturday - looks like Serra finally shipped parts. Am I missing anything, from the recommended list?

I’m shocked I’ve been able to limp along for two weeks - sometimes it starts like nothing is wrong, others it takes 2-3 tries with grinding. Looking forward to having that anxiety behind me…

IMG_3221.webp
 
Grinding sound. Indicates, Bendix drive issue. Likely retaining ring and or bearing failure. Best you park and not try to start, anymore than absolute necessary. Since, it's likely, grinding on flex plate.

Starter old (2).webp
 
I’m midway through this job today, taking a quick break before tackling the firewall side starter bolts. The PO clearly had a parts store replacement at some point, judging by the markings on the reman one that came from Toyota.

There’s quite a bit of oil buildup - after I’ve cleaned out all debris, what’s the best strategy for safely getting the gunk out? Or should I just leave it?

IMG_3245.webp


IMG_3238.webp
 
Looks like, I wasted my time, with the rather length and detailed post #11.
 
Sure didn’t. Just because I posted a picture immediately after removing the IM doesn’t mean I’m not following along with recommendations as I go.

What are you cleaning things with?
 
Repost step 1:
Keys, to start R&R (not year specific):
  1. Clean top of engine, spotless. Pay special attention to area around fuel injectors and along bottom of Intake Manifold (IM) where it meets/bolts to heads.
You now have sand, dust, debris dropping into intake port and on to into cylinder walls. This is about the worst thing one can do to and engine. It's worst than not using air filter for 100K miles on dust road.

People come to me, asking me to check compression. Because they thing they may have and issue. Compression test fails. I say likely cause. "Someone did a starter job, without cleaning top of engine first." They turn white, and say: "I did the starter, without cleaning engine first." Oh well!
 
Shop vac as much of that dirt and debris up as you can. Then duct tape a small diameter hose (like 1/2" clear vinyl tube) to end of shop vac hose and use it to carefully vacuum out each port. Once you've done that, put clean lint free towel in each port to keep stuff out while you clean the rest of the area.

When you're done and ready to reinstall the intake, remove each towel (i use blue paper shop.towels) by vacuuming them out.
 
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