Starter or Neutral Safety switch

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burbuja96 said:
I'm having the same issues, got a new starter, new battery and it still does it when is hot.

I went to a road trip this past weekend and it did it twice, the first time it started right after the second try however, the second time it happened I could only star the truck in N ( neutral). It will start right on..

Can someone please give me some advice? is this the same issue as everyone had before or should I look into something else?

I am planing a trip to Florida ( From Texas) and I do not want it to be something that ruins my trip.

Thanks in advance,

B.
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You didn't say you checked the connecter on the tranny that was the cause of this problem
 
roncruiser said:
Wire in a relay. I went through the same mess you're dealing with. Replaced almost every little thing I could.... starter... starter contacts... ignition switch... just to name a few. I posted on a thread somewhere about wiring in a relay to get the black wire on the starter the proper voltage. I'd post it up myself but I'm on my way to work.

It's the proper fix. I haven't had a problem since. Do this simple fix first and all the others secondary. I say that because it's quick, simple and easy to do.

Good luck. I'll check back later!

Ron
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Thanks for your reply, please send me the link to your post whenever you can.

Thanks again

B
 
or you could look at the tranny connector. redo the connections and have it fixed per design instead of a kludge

Just sayin
 
Romer said:
or you could look at the tranny connector. redo the connections and have it fixed per design instead of a kludge

Just sayin
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Got it, I was under the impression the fix to my issue was his way..

The instructions to redo the connections are those discussed in here correct?

Thanks

B
 
I haven't had reverse lights all summer and this looks like the culprit, anybody got a part number for the connector? I hate to take my favorite parts guy away from his frosty beverage :beer: I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the NSS and could get away with just the new connector.

part0.webp
 
I love this description of the starter circuit here. Are there any differences as to what I would be looking at in a 91? Black/red at the starter so thats a check.


96r50 said:
The current in the starter circuit starts at the battery, passes through fusible links and fuses, then through the ignition switch (switch is closed when the key is at the START position) and then takes a tour over to the glovebox before coming into the NSS as the black-with-white-tracer wire. From there, assuming the transmission is in neutral or park, the current leaves the NSS as the black-with-red-tracer wire and goes to the starter solenoid. It is a fairly easy circuit to troubleshoot (when the problem is present).

In my case (as well as Romer's and TOY350's) the connectors on the two wires were faulty. The black/red trace wire was broken inside my NSS, and the black/white trace wasn't far behind. Your symptoms sound similar enough to mine/Romer/TOY350's that I would strongly suspect the NSS connector. The only other relatively complex part in the starter circuit is the ignition switch (not the tumblers) and it is clean and dry up inside the dash.

Spend half an hour (at most), unplug the connector off the transmission and examine the two larger gauge wires I mentioned above. Disconnect the two wires from the plastic connector body and examine them up close to make sure they aren't separated. This will either be your problem (my guess is that it is), or it will rule it out and let you check the next part of the circuit.

:cheers:
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InsideTheStorm said:
Is there a part number or source for the larger gauge wire connectors on the nss plug? Both of mine were broken off inside the connector housing and need to be replaced.
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82998-12480 x 2
82998-12440 x 8 (just in case you need it)
 
Reviving an old thread. I'm troubleshooting a no start issue and have ruled out most things and I'm not checking the NSS. I've got the plug disconnected and I'm trying to remove the pins of the two larger wires from the connector. For the life of me I can't get the pins to come out of the connector. Can anyone give me some direction on removing those?
 
Box Rocket said:
Reviving an old thread. I'm troubleshooting a no start issue and have ruled out most things and I'm not checking the NSS. I've got the plug disconnected and I'm trying to remove the pins of the two larger wires from the connector. For the life of me I can't get the pins to come out of the connector. Can anyone give me some direction on removing those?
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From what I recall you only have so many tries with the little tab release before they get jammed up. You may try to quickly source a replacement connector and you may need to cut the plastic to remove the pins.
 
NorCalFJ100 said:
From what I recall you only have so many tries with the little tab release before they get jammed up. You may try to quickly source a replacement connector and you may need to cut the plastic to remove the pins.
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hmm. well that sucks.
 
Box Rocket said:
I've got a very small flathead screwdriver I'm using.
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Yeah Joey @witsend of course sells a fantastic tool. But your screwdriver may be fine too. I've also seen people make one out of the little piece of metal in an old wiper blade.

But that plastic is so brittle it's a pita. The housing replacements are readily available in a lot of cases from the dealer.

There's a 5 digit number on there or someone may know off hand what it is.
 
the 5 digit number is only a partial part number, so to add to the info the full part number for the plastic connector (in case you need to replace it) is

90980-11332​

 
Hmmm I've always had better luck with a pick and I have never had a tab fail. But they can be a PITA. Especially, the ones with the water proof packing, You have to work the tab and pull on the wire at the same time. But, when the tab unlocks you'll know it.
 
you'll want to go in through the open end. not all connectors are double locking

IMG_2845.jpeg
 
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