Stalls out when put in gear question? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 25, 2018
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Location
Pittsburgh PA
Looking for advice.

Recurring issue where LC stalls out when coming off highway to first stop light. In sputters and then stalls. It will restart and run in Park or Neutral - but when engaged in Drive or Reverse it stalls.

This has happened a number of times over the past couple years - but each time after it cools down - the issues goes away. It also does not happen each time I drive distance. I logged 30k miles between recurrences this last time. There does not seem to be a common thread as to what triggers it to occur.

Research suggests is might be an issue with Torque converter, but the significant spread in time and mileage between occurrences is confusing and makes it seem like it could be electrical.

Thoughts?
 
It’s such an intermittent issue that it’s going to be difficult to catch what is going on. My first thought would be torque converter and something internal causing it to stay locked up coming to a stop. However, you really need to be able to monitor the different fluid pressures in the valve body to determine if it is being forced to stay locked or if it is accidentally staying locked.
 
thx for reply - does it seem odd to you there are no error messages delivered via diagnostics?
When it has happened - it seems to re-occur for about 24 hours requiring me to tow vehichle - but once I get it towed to shop and it sits for a day it goes away.... then drives for another 6 months or so.
Is it possible to monetary the different fluid pressure in valve body when it is not occurring - or would this be something that need to be complete when the vehicle is stuck?
 
I had a almost exact same problem with my Discovery, exit expressway, rough idle, wanted to stall, no check engine light.
It was the coolant temp sensor, on my Discovery the temp gauge and the ECU used different temp sensors, once I started watching the data in real time I was able to see, via the data port, that when this happened the ECU thought it was -40*F so it was flooding the engine.
Since hot engines need less fuel than cold engines it would want to stall because of all of the fuel being dumped into it.
Replace the faulty temp sensor, problem solve.
Soooo, watch your engine temps in real time via a OBD II data reader, I have an Ultra-Gauge, you can use whatever you want.
That is where I would start.
 
Thx - i will check that out regarding coolant temp sensor. One point is that once it stalls, I can restart it and it runs fine in park - or if I shift it into neutral. However, once I put it in Drive or Reverse - it stalls. If the ECU was flooding the engine, don't you think it would have the same issue in Park / Neutral?
 
Sounds a lot like my problems I spent HOURS AND hours trying to find and I threw tons of cash at it with new parts. It turns out that the crank shaft sensor wire had shifted and made contact with the serpentine belt. It started out with stalls and continued to get worse till the LC would not start at all.

I think the act of stopping the car shifted the partially broken wire enough to lose continuity and then would make contact enough when stopped to restart the car.

On my 2000 if you look down from the top a bit left of the oil filter around the serpentine belt and crank pulley see if there is a wire harness making contact with the belt or if its loose and may be moving into the bet when you hit the brakes.
 
Best testing method would be to connect to Techstream and see what DTC's are stored and work backward from there. I suspect some vacuum related issue tied to throttle body or electrical sensor issue in conjunction or related to: IAC, TPS/AAPS, MAF, or there about. Also check your throttle cable adjustment.
 
thx - when it last happened, we checked for DTC and none were stored. If it was a sensor issue, would this usually trigger an error code?
 
Thx - i will check that out regarding coolant temp sensor. One point is that once it stalls, I can restart it and it runs fine in park - or if I shift it into neutral. However, once I put it in Drive or Reverse - it stalls. If the ECU was flooding the engine, don't you think it would have the same issue in Park / Neutral?

No, because a flooded engine can still run with no load.
That might not be your issue, I'm just saying that it's a easy and free place to start.
 
Intermit issue are a PITA to find, they can go on for years. If we assume a well tuned engine with no vacuum leaks and with all good filters & fluid including in transmission, then I'd look to heat. Not just engine and trany temp but also OAT for clues.

I had some coils going bad not throw a code. They'd only acted up on hot days when OAT was above 85 F, engine warmed-up and vehicle under load (shift to "N" all was fine).

Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, gas cap, charcoal canister and its valves are just a few others areas that gets buggy with temp changes.
 
When you checked for codes- what kind of reader did you use?

Not my interpretation but as I suggested earlier- worth a look in this direction.

Variation in The Idle Speed
This is probably one of the most common signs of a problematic IAC. In general, most of us know that when we accelerate our car, the RPM of the engine will also increase, and once we step the gas off, this number returns slowly to the usual idling speed. Nevertheless, when the RPM gets below the average level, which is about 800 RPM in most vehicles, it is highly likely that there is a problem with the IAC valve. In some cases, this valve would be clogged or near the replacement age. So your car would stall rather than idling after releasing the throttle.”
 
When you checked for codes- what kind of reader did you use?

Not my interpretation but as I suggested earlier- worth a look in this direction.

Variation in The Idle Speed
This is probably one of the most common signs of a problematic IAC. In general, most of us know that when we accelerate our car, the RPM of the engine will also increase, and once we step the gas off, this number returns slowly to the usual idling speed. Nevertheless, when the RPM gets below the average level, which is about 800 RPM in most vehicles, it is highly likely that there is a problem with the IAC valve. In some cases, this valve would be clogged or near the replacement age. So your car would stall rather than idling after releasing the throttle.”

thx - the garage used a "Snap on Solus" reader. From your question, do you think I would have better luck with Techstream for an 2000 LC 100 Series?
 
thx - the garage used a "Snap on Solus" reader. From your question, do you think I would have better luck with Techstream for an 2000 LC 100 Series?
I would think the Solus to be capable of reading the same data-I have no experience with it so I can't say for sure. Techstream with Mini VCI is an inexpensive, comprehensive, useful tool to help you know whats going on with your truck so you're better able to direct & resolve service concerns.

Quick check: Check all of your vacuum hoses to make sure none are broken or cracked, check your PCV valve for proper function, clean your MAF sensor (disconnect battery first - disconnect MAF- clean- reconnect MAF- reconnect battery after 30min). Check your throttle cable at the intake for looseness. See if any of these resolve your problem.
 
I would think the Solus to be capable of reading the same data-I have no experience with it so I can't say for sure. Techstream with Mini VCI is an inexpensive, comprehensive, useful tool to help you know whats going on with your truck so you're better able to direct & resolve service concerns.

Quick check: Check all of your vacuum hoses to make sure none are broken or cracked, check your PCV valve for proper function, clean your MAF sensor (disconnect battery first - disconnect MAF- clean- reconnect MAF- reconnect battery after 30min). Check your throttle cable at the intake for looseness. See if any of these resolve your problem.

great I will try to above - thx for all the advice.
 
There is no need to unhook your battery t clean the MAF, just unplug the MAF, remove it from the truck and clean with MAF cleaner.
Once dry put it back and plug it back in.
 
Consencus is to disconnect battery on this system.
 
Once you unplug the MAF, it has no power. Unhooking the battery removes power from everything. And the ECU has to relearn all of the drive parameters.
The MAF is not as fragile as you think it is. I agree with removing power from it before cleaning. And unplugging it does this.
You can either turn off the main breaker or you can turn off the light switch on the wall before replacing the light bulb. I prefer to turn off the swtich on the wall.
 

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