Squirt (formally Brownie) gets a new Mom and Dad - Erin's Sami Build (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

@4xsteve is this what you mean? Bowl towards the firewall, choke towards the drivers side.

0721181509.webp


As best I can find, the typical install I see in pics on the internets is like this, with the bowl to the front with the choke to the passenger side.

0721181424_HDR.webp


I been piddling today and will post more later.
 
Man, I know. I'm thinking I should be pushing 50 horse powers when I'm done :steer:

I had to put new rotors and pads on the GX this morning and then I decided that it was time to give the squirt a little TLC. Really want to get it back running so we can use it around the farm. So today was find all the stuff i had stashed away for it and see how much of it I could get put on.

First thing I did was put the carb adapter plates one loose and test fit the carb (same pic from above)

0721181509.webp

It was about that time that I realized I needed some shade, so I drug the awning out and threw it up over my head.

0721181601.webp


Then it was back to work. I had previously bought a new coil, plugs, wires, rotor and cap for it, so that was next on the list.

0721181542.webp


I didn't know they were blue til I opened the box, but I dig it. Need to get some separators for them. They are bigger diameter and wont fit in the OE ones, and besides there was only one in there anyway.

So after I got that done I went ahead and bolted the adapters on but left the carb loose for now. I still have some vacuum lines and fuel lines to plumb. Anyway, with those on good, I bolted the carb up and went ahead and put the air cleaner on and checked for clearance with the hood closed.

0721181621.webp


Well with that done I dug out my new fuel pump and bolted that on.

0721181811b.webp


I'm not 100% satisfied that it is sealed, but I was afraid to keep cranking on it, so I will wait and turn thw motor over a couple times and then try again. I think the cam ecentric may be pressing on it and the last thing I want is to pull the studs out of the head.

In amongst all that i also installed a new throttle cable because the PO had crimped a ring terminal on the old one to work with the old propane carb.

And with that, I had cleaned out box 1, so I went hunting for a few other things that I knew I had stashed away.
 
Last edited:
I knew I had a EGR block off plate and a new heater valve stashed somewhere so I went hunting and found them.

First cleaned up the EGR mount and threw that little billet on the side of the manifold. Nothing fancy, but it is shiny :D

0721181811a.webp


So that only left the control valve. The old one was completely seized up and it just bothered me that it, like lots of other things, was just jinky, so out with the old and in with the new.

0721181828.webp


There's the OE part number in case anyone is looking... I didnt know that it was that mangled until I got it off.

New one went right back on.
0721181835.webp


I need to get all new heater hoses for the truck to replace the ones that he T'd into for the propane solenoid heater lines. But I got it on and set to properly operate with the dash controls.

I grabbed this parting shot which capturea all the new wizbangs that got installed today.

0721181847.webp


So today the ole squirt got:

  • Plug wires
  • Rotor and Cap
  • Coil
  • Carb plates and test fit the weber
  • New throttle cable
  • Heater control valve
  • EGR block-off plate
  • Fuel pump
So, all in all, not a bad afternoon. I need to go to the parts store and get some coolant hose, some fuel lines, and a roll of vacuum line so I can start plumbing everything in. I not sure if I will end up using the current fuel cell I have or not. Been thinking about picking up a round one from speedway motors. I want to still have some utility in the back and I have some ideas on how to make that happen.

Anyway, I'm making headway. Hopefully I will have it up and running in a few weeks.
 
Last edited:
Not sure if that’s the carb I sent you but I’d suggest a fuel pressure regulator as I had a hard time tuning it when it was on my truck. Might also help it off-road. You’re probably better at carbs than me but just my experience.
 
It is one and the same sir. I still have to get the fuel lines plumbed, so I will check into the regulator.
 
Last edited:
Hahahaha, Rocky, you got me. I am doing the harley carb swap with a variable vane turbo setup. Target is 100 rwhp :rofl:

Actually, that looks overly complicated. I dig the squirt, but that setup probably cost more than the original purchase price of the truck...

Right now I am researching fuel lines. I am going to pick up one of these tanks for it this week:

Fuel tank.webp


I did some measuring this afternoon and it should drop right in between the wheel wells behind the seats and still leave me with a decent bed for utility uses. I will build a little bulkhead around it to help protect it from stuff that might get chucked in the back.

Currently I am researching fuel lines. I was thinking about doing rubber all the way, but have stumbled onto some 3/8" aluminum that I think might make for a clean install up into the engine bay. I will do an in-line filter ahead of the fuel pump I think, and maybe a secondary one between the pump and carb if there is room.

I think if I can get the tank ordered, installed and plumbed, then I think I should be in a spot to try and get it started and do a little moving around.

I had originally wanted to swap the 40 axles underneath, but lets be honest, if I want it to move under it's own power anytime soon, I need to not get too ambitious. So for now, I will just plan to rebuild the front knuckles (had the rebuild kit for like 6 years now anyway) and weld up the holes in the rear axle and run it as is.

In my pondering today I also remembered that I have a new clutch for it somewhere that needs to be installed at some point. So while I am I am sorting out the fuel system, i will also see about tearing down the front-end and rebuild the knuckles.

If any of you guys have a decent set of 31x10.50R15 MTs around, I am in the market for something that is a little more road friendly. I'd love a set of Km3's but Erin says they would dry rot before they wore out and for the farm, I agree that I don't need to put too much into a set of tars.

Going to get the tank ordered this week and see if I can figure out the fuel lines and be ready to do some plumbing next weekend.

:beer:
 
Putting back on as many parts as you take off, not willingly turning into a bigger project... did you bump your head buddy? Don’t let those head wounds go that can be really dangerous..
Honestly man props for getting so much done lately, wish I was doing the same.
 
Thanks @jason in tn I need to get those CO's off the 4Runner for you. If the weather is nice, I may try to do that this coming weekend. That is a project that I really need to get some movement on. Getting the 4Runner cleaned up, the bumper back on it, the suspension swapped and get a 4 Sale sign on it. The $$ infusion would be good to help bankroll all these other projects that need doing.
 
Tank arrived today.

0724182023.webp


Holy cow, ordered on Sunday, delivered today. Speedway motors gets an A for shipping speed for sure.

Now i need fuel line and an in-line filter and we will be ready to see if I can make it go vroom again.
 
@4xsteve is this what you mean? Bowl towards the firewall, choke towards the drivers side.

View attachment 1749391

As best I can find, the typical install I see in pics on the internets is like this, with the bowl to the front with the choke to the passenger side.

View attachment 1749394

I think so, but it's been a LONG time since I've messed with it so I can't say for sure. If possible, just try to leave it modular so that you can rotate it later on to try it different ways to suit you.
 
I am going to get the tank in tomorrow and then make a parts store run at some point to pick up oil change supplies, some fuel lines to try and get some fuel to the carb to try and see if I can actually get it up and running on some good ole' 87 octane again.

@4xsteve there aren't many other lines running to it, so swapping it around later shouldn't be much trouble.
 
Well, I had a number of things I had on my mind to do today. The squirt was down a few rungs and I had honestly planned to work on the white 80, but a few stumbles ate up more day then I had intended, so I figured I would just see about rebuilding the front knuckle on the squirt.

Got him pushed over and into the garage and up on stands.

0804181815.webp


I started on the passenger side. It is about as close to working on a Toyota as you can get, but not. Anyway, this was not a good sign.
0804181846.webp


And then off came the rotor and hub, not looking any better.

0804181850.webp


So imagine my surprise to find moly still in the knuckle.
0804181854.webp


And even more surprised to find the inner axle seal still doing a Damn good job keeping the gear oil out.

The inner shaft is oil only, birf is moly only. No soup or mixing at all. So that was good news.

0804181854a.webp


So not all bad, but not great, I call it a decent start.
 
Last edited:
So the cleaning started. After a little wire wheel and some cleaning I was pleased to see the balls cleaned up very nicely.
0804181935.webp


0804181938a.webp


Drove out the old races and pulled the axle seal before I drove in the new races and installed the new inner axle seal. Fun fact, I pressed the inner seal in with my hands.

0804182010a.webp


So then I cleaned up the knuckle and after packing it back full of moly, I bolted the knuckle and spindle back on.

0804182106.webp


0804182057.webp


So now I just need to clean up the backing plate and bolt it back on, then I should be ready to get the new wheel bearings packed and in, then on goes the hub/rotor and the lock-out and that will be one side down.
 
Well I started today by cleaning up the backing plate and caliper bracket and getting a fresh coat of gloss black on them. While those dried I drove out the old races and then drove in the new ones. Then the messy job of packing the wheel bearings. By then the sun had baked the gloss dry so I started putting things back together.

First on went the freshened backing plates.
0805181225.webp


Then when I was greasing the spindle I noticed that the spindles had clearly gotten toasty. Inner side looked ok, but outer is scorched a little.

0805181230.webp

For no more than we will run it, it will be fine.

Then I threw the rotor and hub body back on with the fresh bearings packed full of fresh grease.
0805181249a.webp


I didn't mess with cleaning them up as they need replacing. Been reading and a vented Sidekick rotor and caliper will bolt right on, so I will get a set of those on the way.

Anyway, I had to rob some hub gaskets out of my Terrain Tamer frontend kit since TG failed to send any with their frontend kit. Lucky for me, the hub bodies are the same as the early mini-trucks/40s/60s.
0805181428.webp


Then I fiddled with the lock-out a little to get it to bolt onto the hub body, but eventually I got it on. I need to pull the lock-outs back off and do a proper hub rebuild. The springs and rotating assembly need a good soaking to get all the old rusty crude out. But I didnt feel like fooling with that today. So I hit the spacer with a wire wheel to knock the oxidation off and bolted then back on.

0805181559a.webp


I also pulled the high steer arm off, cleaned it up and hit it with a little glossy goodness too.

And that wrapped up the passenger side, as well as squirts spa visit. Erin and Hannah came in and wanted to go get some dinner so I put it back together and rolled him back outside.

The drivers side still needs to be gone thru and it definitely needs a rebuild. Putting the tire back on that side I could feel a ton of play in the bearings. PS is rock solid, so we are good to go.

One of the back tires has always had a slow leak, so I pulled it off and put the soapy water to it and apparently it is a really small leak on the inner bead at the rim, right around a wheel weight. Been pondering some 31s, so if that happens then I wont worry with it, but if not then I will have to see if I can have the tire broken down so I can clean the bead and remount it.

Anyway, done for now. Still need to get my plumbing for the petrol conversion so I can see if the Damn thing will still run.

Til next time, :cheers:
 
Last edited:
Thanks Chris. I looked that up and I may just go that route for now.

I ordered a pile of fuel line and fittings today and if Summit comes thru then I will be working on fuel plumbing this weekend. Might even work on that Drivers side knuckle and if I can get some rotors and calipers, might go ahead and do the sidekick brake upgrade.
 
Well, now that I have a place to park it, I'm gonna pull the squirt inside the shop and see about doing a little plumbing on the fuel system this weekend.

Back around to that whole, I got parts, I should use them first. I picked up these fuel bits about a year ago, so I pulled them out to take stock.

20191120_065741.webp


With the above I also have 25ft of 3/8" hard lines and 3' of braided.

I roughly laid out the general plan.

20191120_202948.webp


I need a couple more tube nuts and a couple other misc fittings that I ordered today, so well see if we can make any progress over the weekend.
 
@jynx I'm just wondering does the "Fire" sauce make the fuel burn hotter? I also see some good thread sealant from McAlister's, good choice. :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom