Yeah, just put a BB in the line at the diaphragm. I did that for years before I fixed the system. You're in area that doesn't get very cold too often, so it's not an issue for long warmups.
Build SpaceG The FJ60
- Thread starter GojiraFJ60
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- #62
That said, can you even go about fixing that? If not, I don’t wanna get too hung up on it.
Yes, but it most likely requires the replacement of the HIC valve (Hot Idle Compensator) in the Air cleaner that is almost always no longer working. The valve is long gone, but you can use a GM version as a substitute.
With the new VTV, you should first check to see if the Flap is even going up when engine cold (just take off the snorkel tube) and dropping when warmed up.
If not, if it's either staying up or not moving at all, I'd just do the BB. Replacing the HIC can get a bit involved and the HIC valves have gotten stupid expensive on ebay, like $50-75 if you can find a good NOS one. They used to be like 10 bux.
Plus, it only speeds warm ups. Doesn't do anything for functionality, except at hot idle, depending on how/if the HIC has failed.
With the new VTV, you should first check to see if the Flap is even going up when engine cold (just take off the snorkel tube) and dropping when warmed up.
If not, if it's either staying up or not moving at all, I'd just do the BB. Replacing the HIC can get a bit involved and the HIC valves have gotten stupid expensive on ebay, like $50-75 if you can find a good NOS one. They used to be like 10 bux.
Plus, it only speeds warm ups. Doesn't do anything for functionality, except at hot idle, depending on how/if the HIC has failed.
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- #65
Ya I posted that lol
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- #66
Took a peak in the snout this morning with the engine off and it definitely isn’t working, the flap is down. So BB is it. I’ll have to go and see if Walmart has any that will fit (I imagine so).
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- #67
Got the engine warmed up and took some temperature readings; on top by the valves, and block (second photo).
However…I’ve been spotting these odd coolant leaks while doing a walkaround and checking hoses, tightening clamps and so on. 3rd photo shows this random slow drip that I have no idea where it’s originating from.
Lastly, at least I know my overflow tank is working???? Or is that abnormal? (Quick Edit: I believe my overflow just had too much coolant in it to begin with, I had it filled to the “Max” line
).
However…I’ve been spotting these odd coolant leaks while doing a walkaround and checking hoses, tightening clamps and so on. 3rd photo shows this random slow drip that I have no idea where it’s originating from.
Lastly, at least I know my overflow tank is working???? Or is that abnormal? (Quick Edit: I believe my overflow just had too much coolant in it to begin with, I had it filled to the “Max” line
).
Last edited:
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- #68
Took a “major” leap today and got my carb out so I can do my manifold gasket replacement.
@Spike Strip I think at this point, I’m probably better off starting a desmog. I feel as if I’m too far in to say “No” or “I’ll wait”.
@Spike Strip I think at this point, I’m probably better off starting a desmog. I feel as if I’m too far in to say “No” or “I’ll wait”.
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- #69
A question I’d like to pitch, but before that:
As any of you have seen at this point, I’ve got my carb out. I ran into another snag, that being the plate that the carb sits on. It doesn’t seem like it’s going to come free unless I remove the air rail. Given that at this point, a desmog is practically staring me in the face, I may as well remove it. But that leads me to my question.
This last nut. Doesn’t seem like I can really get to it unless I take that engine hook out. Unless I’m mistaken???
As any of you have seen at this point, I’ve got my carb out. I ran into another snag, that being the plate that the carb sits on. It doesn’t seem like it’s going to come free unless I remove the air rail. Given that at this point, a desmog is practically staring me in the face, I may as well remove it. But that leads me to my question.
This last nut. Doesn’t seem like I can really get to it unless I take that engine hook out. Unless I’m mistaken???
First time I've been able to log on since the server update 
Glad it's finally fixed.
You may be running a little hot, that's why it's pissing out the overflow. Could have an air bubble. You opened the heater valve when you burped the system? This is why I like an auxiliary temp gauge if for nothing else, peace of mind.
If you're going to desmog (time is right when carb/manifold is off), get a big can of PB Blaster and start spraying all the rusted bolts and unions now. Really. Do it for at least a few days a couple times a day with light tapping from a hammer to set up the capillary action that'll break the rust. Works every time.
If you can salvage all or most of the emissions junk (particularly the Air Injection manifold without twisting the tubes) you can sell it to us suckers in Kalif who still need it. Those small thin tubes bend very easy.
Use the Toyota manifold gasket- it's the best.
Good luck with the carb. There are some YT vids on it.
Glad it's finally fixed. You may be running a little hot, that's why it's pissing out the overflow. Could have an air bubble. You opened the heater valve when you burped the system? This is why I like an auxiliary temp gauge if for nothing else, peace of mind.
If you're going to desmog (time is right when carb/manifold is off), get a big can of PB Blaster and start spraying all the rusted bolts and unions now. Really. Do it for at least a few days a couple times a day with light tapping from a hammer to set up the capillary action that'll break the rust. Works every time.
If you can salvage all or most of the emissions junk (particularly the Air Injection manifold without twisting the tubes) you can sell it to us suckers in Kalif who still need it. Those small thin tubes bend very easy.
Use the Toyota manifold gasket- it's the best.
Good luck with the carb. There are some YT vids on it.
- Thread starter
- #71
No worries dude!First time I've been able to log on since the server update
You may be running a little hot, that's why it's pissing out the overflow. Could have an air bubble. You opened the heater valve when you burped the system? This is why I like an auxiliary temp gauge if for nothing else, peace of mind.
If you're going to desmog (time is right when carb/manifold is off), get a big can of PB Blaster and start spraying all the rusted bolts and unions now. Really. Do it for at least a few days a couple times a day with light tapping from a hammer to set up the capillary action that'll break the rust. Works every time.
If you can salvage all or most of the emissions junk (particularly the Air Injection manifold without twisting the tubes) you can sell it to us suckers in Kalif who still need it. Those small thin tubes bend very easy.
Use the Toyota manifold gasket- it's the best.
Good luck with the carb. There are some YT vids on it.
I actually did not touch the heater valve when I burped…but I assumed I got all that coolant coming out was because I had the overflow tank already filled to “full”. Kinda weird as that’s the first time that’s happened. But since I’m definitely “down” for the time being, I’m definitely going to get one of those gauges.
I have your “How to desmog” PDF that I’m going to print and was reading about the air rail. I’ll try to preserve it; I had some very slight bending in those tubes, but I hit all 6 nuts with PB and let it sit for a bit and got them loose. Except for the one by the firewall…which I think I may need to take the engine hook off to get better access to.
CruiserMatt in FL sent me a Toyota gasket a while back, so it will be getting used.
I also have Pinhead’s carb rebuild on YouTube ready to go when I’m ready.
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- #72
Pulled the carb over this past weekend.
Won’t really be able to do anything else until Friday (working all weekend).
But…progress.
Won’t really be able to do anything else until Friday (working all weekend).
But…progress.
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- #73
@Spike Strip
I’m trying to have some foresight with this eventual desmogging. I was shown two kits; one from TLC (I believe that’s Jim that I’ve heard about), and another from Man A Fre. I figure if I’m going to send my distributor over to TLC for recurving, maybe just buy his kit at the same time?
I’m trying to have some foresight with this eventual desmogging. I was shown two kits; one from TLC (I believe that’s Jim that I’ve heard about), and another from Man A Fre. I figure if I’m going to send my distributor over to TLC for recurving, maybe just buy his kit at the same time?
Go with TLC, Jim Chenoweth, over Man A Fre. If you can afford the down time (months) and $$ also send him your carb along with the distributor. When it comes back all you need to do is install it.
Both kits will work fine. I think Jim's is a little cheaper. But if you're going to send the distributor to Jim, might as well get everything at same place.
Just an FYI, last time I used Jim C/TLC’s services was for a dizzy recurve and it took just shy of two years from initial contact attempt to receiving my finished dizzy back in the mail. Super talented guy, and super popular. That was over a year ago now so maybe things have changed, but it’s worth keeping in mind.
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- #77
Considering I’m in “peak season” at my job, I really only have 1 day out of my week where I’m off (Friday), so I can use that down time to focus on some smaller/misc stuff that needs to be done in the meantime.
Yes, his is cheaper. And I figured it’d make more sense to get everything done in one place. I’ll shoot him an email today.
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- #78
I’m not sure HOW your comment went unnoticed dude, as I’m just now catching it (I don’t have a notification for it or anything) but TWO years?
I sent him an email over the weekend (wasn’t expecting a speedy reply because of the holiday), but I’m going to give him a call today too…
FWIW , I had both my distributor and carb rebuilt by JIm C , at different times. Distributor took 3 months to get back, Carb took 6 months to get back. Both times I initially emailed him, no response, so I called and talk to him on phone. In my opinion well worth the wait.
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- #80
That’s fine, I’m not entirely too perturbed by a “long wait”. I haven’t really been doing any driving; I still need new wheels/tires, new suspension, and some general maintenance things so in general, I’m “down”. I haven’t gotten a response from my email either so I’m going to call him tomorrow morning/afternoon.