- Thread starter
- #101
I’m referring to the “Fabrication work” part of your “How To”, that’s all
Build SpaceG The FJ60
- Thread starter GojiraFJ60
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That's not mine. I've never done a desmog on a 60, being in Kalifornia.
FAIK, there shouldn't be any fabrication necessary. Just remove smog bits. Plug as necessary. Use Jim C. Carb and Distributor and then maybe a little tuning and off you go. Will vary depending on if you want to keep High Altitude Compensator or not
- Thread starter
- #103
This is where I found the PDF; so I assumed you compiled it. But if I was wrong there, that’s my bad, no worries. It’s not something I’m too hung up on.
Attached is a photo of the “Fabrication work” segment that I’m referring to. If I’m not at all obliged to worry about it, I’ll do just that: Not worry about it. Otherwise, I’ll have to figure something else out there
Oh - I see what you mean ... Jim's kit includes everything you'll need. The 'fabrication' is if you want to butcher stuff and do it without the kit, like fabricating a block-off plate, welding the EGR tube, etc. The kit is much cleaner way to do it.
PLUS, if you can get the bits off without buggering too much stuff, you'll be able to sell it and make back the cost of the kit, and then some, if the smog pump is good.
PLUS, if you can get the bits off without buggering too much stuff, you'll be able to sell it and make back the cost of the kit, and then some, if the smog pump is good.
- Thread starter
- #105
Ah, now THAT makes a lot more sense. Puts my brain at ease LOL. I can just cross that out so I know not to pay it any mind.
Thank you. 
& Thanks for that tip.
I’m beginning to take the intake manifold off, just hitting the bolts with some pblaster and whatnot.
Ah! If you're taking the manifold assy off, then doing the rear block off plate is a breeze, even if you break one of the small studs. If you can't get what's left of the stud out, any machine shop can do it for $20
With the manifold off, it might be a good time to replace or have replaced those two rear horn studs - you can see even in Jim's website pic, the studs have broken off... If you can get the studs out, some people with the de-smog, use bolts with a lock washer and you should never have an issue again.
With the manifold off, it might be a good time to replace or have replaced those two rear horn studs - you can see even in Jim's website pic, the studs have broken off... If you can get the studs out, some people with the de-smog, use bolts with a lock washer and you should never have an issue again.
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- #107
Yes, I’m taking the intake assy off - I was going to give it to a machine shop to get the surface flat again per Jim’s recommendation when I spoke to him on the phone. That might even solve the alleged vacuum leak I believe I was having and trying to track down too when I put it back on with a new gasket.
I will keep an eye out for those rear studs (praying they don’t break
).
- Thread starter
- #108
Did a few small things today; loosening bolts here and there, spraying to prep, halfway disconnecting the “spaghetti” metal vac piping, etc.
I wanted to ask a question that I don’t believe was covered in the Desmog thread that’s attached to the guide: With the removal and subsequent plugging of “BVSV 2”, does BVSV 1 just be left as is with no hoses connected or anything?
I wanted to ask a question that I don’t believe was covered in the Desmog thread that’s attached to the guide: With the removal and subsequent plugging of “BVSV 2”, does BVSV 1 just be left as is with no hoses connected or anything?
Hopefully someone who's done the de-smog can answer, but I thought one of the BVSV gets used for the Carb choke or choke-breaker, but if you're having your carb rebuilt by Jim C it's possible he removes that (breaker) ?
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- #110
I’m having it rebuilt by Jim. In fact, I’ll ask CruiserTrash and see what he tells me. Perhaps I might be missing something.
When you talk to Jim C when your stuff is ready to ship, ask him also. He does de-smog as a service.
@GojiraFJ60 It says right in the instructions on page 15 out of 24
4.3 From BVSV(1)
Port (a) to carb EGR R Port
Port (b) to VCV for EVAP port (s) (unchanged from stock)
4.3 From BVSV(1)
Port (a) to carb EGR R Port
Port (b) to VCV for EVAP port (s) (unchanged from stock)
- Thread starter
- #113
Aha. I thought I might’ve skipped over it somewhere.
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- #114
I might not be THE sharpest tool in the 60 shed, but I want to ask: Can loose intake bolts be a source of a leak?
If you guys remember me trying to track down vacuum leaks…I may have found it.
I’m continuing my work on removing the intake and I come to the bolt on the underside that’s closest to the firewall, get a socket in, and expecting a struggle: It appears to be HAND TIGHT.
If you guys remember me trying to track down vacuum leaks…I may have found it.
I’m continuing my work on removing the intake and I come to the bolt on the underside that’s closest to the firewall, get a socket in, and expecting a struggle: It appears to be HAND TIGHT.
- Thread starter
- #115
Make that two loose intake bolts; there was another by the firewall.
Definitely could be.
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- #117
I believe at this point I’ve removed necessary bolts for the intake, but I think these are the last 2 and it should be free from the exhaust?
Zoom out some but those can stay. There's a triangular connection with three bolts that connects to the downpipe you can remove and pull the whole thing out
No, those two bolts are keeping the intake and exhaust as one assembly. Do not remove those. There are three nuts holding the downpipe onto the bottom of the exhaust side of the manifold assembly. If you haven't removed those yet, you will need to.
- Thread starter
- #120
Okay!
So I’m on the right track. I got one of those bolts out; the other two…well, the nuts came off