Build SpaceG The FJ60

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All of that being said, I’m a step closer to figuring out why this was plugged on the air cleaner:

But that thread link you sent does help! So thank you @Spike Strip

IMG_9714.webp
 
Spike Strip said:
It's plugged because someone didn't know what they were doing. Proper routing of the the Vac hoses will go a long way in making the truck run well and/or helping to diagnose any problems.

🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
Click to expand...
That probably explains the whole “vacuum leak” I had been having in the first place anyway in all honesty.

I will persist until it is resolved…
 
@Spike Strip Any guesses on what size those other hoses are for the dizzy? And maybe a part number for that part that goes in that bracket under the air cleaner?

Even with a desmog I imagine I’m probably still gonna need those.
 
I think the large hose is 5 or 6 mm and the small one is same as the 3mm vac hose. If you go to NAPA, etc, they'll have a SAE size that works.

That Vac Control Valve (VCV) is long gone, but there's a substitute available from 80-series. Only difference is they're Blue/black and the nipples out the side are reversed, so just pay attention to what hose goes where (I forget, but it's in the FSM). You will need that valve for that system to function properly. Also check that the flap in the Air Cleaner snout is down when engine is fully warmed up. If it's not, just put a BB in the hose leading to the diaphragm on top.

VCV - OEM part # 90925-03192

www.cityracerllc.com

OEM Vacuum Control Valve / VCV for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 FZJ80

New OEM Vacuum Control Valve (VCV) for: '77 and later Land Cruiser FJ40 Land Cruiser FJ60 '92 to '97 Land Cruiser FZJ80 OEM part # 90925-03192. Plug and play replacement for the original white VCV, part # 90925-03058, which has been discontinued. Note that for FJ40 and FJ60 applications, the...
www.cityracerllc.com

Also avail from Toyota dealer and ebay
 
10-4!
It might’ve just been me, it didn’t seem like the 3mm hoses fit that smaller nipple on the dizzy, but I’m going to check again with the other cap I have to be sure and I’ll go from there.

And if we had spotted this earlier, I could’ve gotten that VCV when I got new tail light gaskets 😂

Either way, it’ll get done. 🤙🏾🫡
 
Old taillight gaskets vs new from City Racer.

Still waiting on a VCV substitute from CR as well.
IMG_9774.webp


IMG_9778.webp


IMG_9776.webp


IMG_9780.webp
 
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Putting this back together today…
Or at least lining everything up.

And still trying to muster the courage to take the carburetor off and do my rebuild and new manifold gasket 😅

IMG_9820.webp
 
I am NOT happy this morning.
I haven’t touched on anything since my last update earlier this month, but today I was PLANNING on refilling the cooling system and trying to gauge how much coolant I lost on my last drive.
Dumped a gallon in, it’s going to need more. But before I left, I decided to check underneath the truck to make sure I wasn’t leaking, and lo and behold, I’ve got coolant leaking from the hose that connects to the bypass.

IMG_9913.webp
 
Spike Strip said:
And it ALWAYS has to be the hardest one to get to....
Click to expand...
EXACTLY.

The hose is definitely a tad too short. And I remember when I put my water pump on, I was “somewhat” concerned, but considering I’ve even driven around without it leaking from there, I honestly didn’t think there was an issue. So I’m not sure what happened.

I spent about 3 hours readjusting the hose, the bypass itself (I had to shorten the hose that connects from the bottom of the radiator by about 2in), trying to find a “sweet spot” where everything “just” connects/clamps, but I believe it should be okay now. I was trying to avoid taking the radiator, alternator, and everything associated.
 
It’s wild. I had every intention of going out there this morning and taking my carburetor off so I can start the takedown and rebuild. Instead: Cussing up a storm fooling around with coolant hoses 🤣☠️

Speaking of, I imagine I’m going to need some sort of cleaning solution once I get in there, do you have any recommendations @Spike Strip
Or will it just be plain ol Brake Clean?
 
Spike Strip said:
Sorry, just saw your question. I just use some degreaser from Home Depot and a brush if it's dirty. I don't like brake clean. Hard on the lungs.
Click to expand...
No worries, I was in the midst of adding on to my initial post after you left a like, so I understand missing it. Nonetheless, that sounds good. 👍🏾
 
Spike Strip said:
I think the large hose is 5 or 6 mm and the small one is same as the 3mm vac hose. If you go to NAPA, etc, they'll have a SAE size that works.

That Vac Control Valve (VCV) is long gone, but there's a substitute available from 80-series. Only difference is they're Blue/black and the nipples out the side are reversed, so just pay attention to what hose goes where (I forget, but it's in the FSM). You will need that valve for that system to function properly. Also check that the flap in the Air Cleaner snout is down when engine is fully warmed up. If it's not, just put a BB in the hose leading to the diaphragm on top.

VCV - OEM part # 90925-03192

www.cityracerllc.com

OEM Vacuum Control Valve / VCV for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 FZJ80

New OEM Vacuum Control Valve (VCV) for: '77 and later Land Cruiser FJ40 Land Cruiser FJ60 '92 to '97 Land Cruiser FZJ80 OEM part # 90925-03192. Plug and play replacement for the original white VCV, part # 90925-03058, which has been discontinued. Note that for FJ40 and FJ60 applications, the...
www.cityracerllc.com

Also avail from Toyota dealer and ebay
Click to expand...
Wanted to touch on this since I’m out bleeding the cooling system. I do believe I have this set up properly.

I also wanted to touch on the flap in the air cleaner snout that you mentioned to me. I believe this is correct? I’m not entirely sure, but I assume that if the engine is cold, that flap will be up, and let’s use the tstat as a comparison, it opens up as the engine warms up. Whereas this flap will go down under the same conditions. Do I have that correct?

IMG_9983.webp


IMG_9984.webp
 
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Moving along, I ran the engine for a good 15-20 minutes and bled the system until it didn’t want to receive any more coolant. I was watching the temperature gauge and it seems to be holding in the range shown in the photo here. It did go higher, but came back down once coolant was let in and stayed there.
Now, I imagine that’s going to look much different once I put it on the road, but for now, this is what I’m looking at.

IMG_9985.webp
 
I also ran 2G of ETH fuel to see what kind of a response I got. Not nearly as much smoke or any of the other usual things I’d see/hear. No real “backfiring” or anything of that nature except when I applied some throttle.

ETH free gas may be more expensive, but I’ll more than likely use that going forward.
 
VTV looks correct, but I can't see all of it. It's a little confusing, but the diagram in the Emissions manual is good. As long as you follow that you're good.

Yes, Air Cleaner Flap should be UP when you start a cold engine (vacuum directed to the AC diaphragm), this is to speed warmup by sucking in heated air from around the exhaust manifold - Then, when engine warms, the flap will drop, sealing off the Hot Air Intake tube on the exhaust manifold (HAI) and allow colder air to be drawn into the engine.

Temp seems to be right where is should be.

I STRONGLY suggest to anyone with a 60-series to get an aftermarket Temperature gauge, even the cheap electrical ones. The stock is just not reliable and by the time it warns you of overheating, or by the time you notice it, the damage is already done.

This one is the simplest to install and just fits in any 5/8 Heater Hose line:

 
Spike Strip said:
VTV looks correct, but I can't see all of it. It's a little confusing, but the diagram in the Emissions manual is good. As long as you follow that you're good.

Yes, Air Cleaner Flap should be UP when you start a cold engine (vacuum directed to the AC diaphragm), this is to speed warmup by sucking in heated air from around the exhaust manifold - Then, when engine warms, the flap will drop, sealing off the Hot Air Intake tube on the exhaust manifold (HAI) and allow colder air to be drawn into the engine.

Temp seems to be right where is should be.

I STRONGLY suggest to anyone with a 60-series to get an aftermarket Temperature gauge, even the cheap electrical ones. The stock is just not reliable and by the time it warns you of overheating, or by the time you notice it, the damage is already done.

This one is the simplest to install and just fits in any 5/8 Heater Hose line:

Click to expand...
Okay! I will refer back to the ESM to make sure. I was also looking at some photos from another thread (can’t think of which one at the moment) for a compare/contrast thing.

I honestly have no idea if that flap is even working properly lol. Something tells me it probably isn’t, but if it’s not, you did suggest putting a BB in the hose connecting to the diaphragm. I’ll have to look back at that again later on today when I get a chance.

I can invest in that temp gauge.
I have a laser thermometer was “conveniently” in the house and out of mind, otherwise I would’ve taken a temperature reading then and there with it. 🫠
 
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