Build SpaceG The FJ60

[GojiraFJ60]

The phone number that’s listed on TLC’s website still works, I presume. I did call, and left a voicemail.

If he had an additional number, it’d probably be listed too.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

It’s pretty funny how all of my other air rail nuts were generally “easy” to loosen, but it’s the LAST one here that’s a complete pain in the A$$. I’ve talked with a couple of different fellas about a strategy on how to deal with this thing…

I’ve got a punch set. May/may not be helpful, but I’ve been giving it a try.

I DO NOT feel comfortable using a torch in the engine bay…I’ve briefly tried it but it literally scares the hell out of me

I’m about to go get a crow’s foot set to see if that can give me the extra “torque” I feel that I need to finally knock this piece of sh*t loose…

But Idk anymore at this point, any other suggestions are welcome! I’m gonna need another can of PB…

 

[Spike Strip]

Your reluctance to use flame in the engine bay is understandable, but with the carb out, there isn't a big fuel source nearby. You could always drape everything around the area you want to flame with sopping wet towels. It really helps if you can get the union nut cherry red a couple of times with in-between squirts of PB Blaster or touch a candle to it. Wax is supposed to work well.

If you really are against the blue wrench, just keep hitting the nut with Blaster for a week with some taps from a hammer after: Vibrations help set up the capillary to loosen the nut.

I have a crows-foot line-wrench I use for that one. (it is 17mm, right? Been a while).

17 mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench | TEKTON | Made in USA

3/8 inch drive x 17 mm 6-point flare nut crowfoot wrench. Use to disconnect brake, fuel, and hydraulic lines without rounding-off fasteners. WCF16217

www.tekton.com

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6-Point-Crowfoot-Wrench-WCF16217/dp/B0CCQ1MVK2/?tag=ihco-20

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Your reluctance to use flame in the engine bay is understandable, but with the carb out, there isn't a big fuel source nearby. You could always drape everything around the area you want to flame with sopping wet towels. It really helps if you can get the union nut cherry red a couple of times with in-between squirts of PB Blaster or touch a candle to it. Wax is supposed to work well.

If you really are against the blue wrench, just keep hitting the nut with Blaster for a week with some taps from a hammer after: Vibrations help set up the capillary to loosen the nut.

I have a crows-foot line-wrench I use for that one. (it is 17mm, right? Been a while).

17 mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench | TEKTON | Made in USA

3/8 inch drive x 17 mm 6-point flare nut crowfoot wrench. Use to disconnect brake, fuel, and hydraulic lines without rounding-off fasteners. WCF16217

www.tekton.com

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6-Point-Crowfoot-Wrench-WCF16217/dp/B0CCQ1MVK2/?tag=ihco-20

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Funny how you mention a flare crowfoot. I ran to HF and grabbed a set.

The good news: The air rail IS off.

The bad: Well. Nobody will be able to use it. I was trying to keep it intact, but…

 

[Spike Strip]

There are places that can repair it, if someone needs one bad enough. That tube is just brazed in.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

There are places that can repair it, if someone needs one bad enough. That tube is just brazed in.

Ah. Well that’s fair. I’ll hold on to it then.

Still no word from Jim, I left him a VM this afternoon. I’ll call again tomorrow.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Finally got in touch with Jim to discuss details. In his words: “I am so far behind, I don’t know how far behind I am”

But, as I explained to him, I’m in no particular hurry. And considering everyone trusts his work (and keeps him busy), I’ll still work with him.

He mentioned to me about checking the camshaft as a potential “issue” that needs resolving. And while I am going to put a new manifold gasket on, he also mentioned that it would be smart to get the manifold machined flat again. So that’s lovely.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yup. He's a busy man for a reason. Definitely have the Int/Exh manifold assy at least checked for flatness, while it's off. Don't take it apart unless there's something wrong. Check that the flap in the Exh side is functional. Look down the throat of the Intake side and see if there's a 'crack' - could be very faint.

I think with the camshaft, he's talking about potential wear from improper oil? M1 15w50 is good stuff and easy to get at Wally World. If not, Rotella T4 or T5 is also good and usually at the WalMart

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Proceeding with taking the distributor out so I can send it to Jim. Cap didn’t show anything worthy of note, but what can be said about the distributor itself here?

 

[Spike Strip]

Doesn't look too bad. Make sure engine is at exact TDC before removing distributor. Will make it a lot easier to reinstall. Mark where the brass tip of the rotor is pointing on the edge of the dissy housing, at TDC, to give a simple visual for re-install.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Doesn't look too bad. Make sure engine is at exact TDC before removing distributor. Will make it a lot easier to reinstall. Mark where the brass tip of the rotor is pointing on the edge of the dissy housing, at TDC, to give a simple visual for re-install.

Okay…you’ll have to explain what “TDC” means because that’s a new one for me.

Edit: Nevermind, TDC means Top Dead Center.

That may require some additional tinkering. Now…I took a peek in the little hole that the dizzy sits in and I noticed a slot down there, my guess is that’s for the bottom tip.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes - TDC Top Dead Center for #1 piston (front of engine) on Compression stroke.

Yes - The slot you see in the hole, is in the top of shaft that drives the Oil Pump. The Bottom of the distributor shaft fits into that slot and the gear on distributor is driven by the camshaft gear, so the oil pump and distributor are turned together.

If the distributor is not fully seated into that slot in the oil pump, you won't have any oil pressure. That's why all the TDC and marking helps to get everything back together the way it came apart.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Yes - TDC Top Dead Center for #1 piston (front of engine) on Compression stroke.

Yes - The slot you see in the hole, is in the top of shaft that drives the Oil Pump. The Bottom of the distributor shaft fits into that slot and the gear on distributor is driven by the camshaft gear, so the oil pump and distributor are turned together.

If the distributor is not fully seated into that slot in the oil pump, you won't have any oil pressure. That's why all the TDC and marking helps to get everything back together the way it came apart.

Got it….

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Carb and Dizzy has been boxed and dropped at FedEx to send off to Jim. Let’s hope it doesn’t take “too long”.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Got some new side marker lights from Matt and a new air filter that I installed yesterday.
I haven’t the faintest idea what happened to the old marker lights. But, “like new”. And once again, I wonder what this 60 has been through.

(And I dream of the day I’ll get this thing repainted…I can’t stand the current paintjob, though I like the selection, it just looks poorly done.)