Sorry, Another Real Steel Soft Top Bow Question (1 Viewer)

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I did this on my 1974 and my 1969. Worked great, tops fit fine.
After talking with gr8ful we figured I have early doors that were bent to fit later hard top sides. I am going to either bend the frames straight and or get a top half of the old style doors or fst doors if I can find a pair. I am leaving the top the way it is so the new top that is made for this setup fits.
 

HelloKitty65

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Weighing in on a sort of related topic of using hard doors on a 1964 FJ40 with Real Steel soft top bows. The length of my early stock hard top door bow is basically angle iron with some flourishes. Later OEM and Real Steel soft top door bows bevel the inside corner and this material really gets in the way of an early stock hard door. I don't know if an early stock soft top door bow fixes this issue.

20210214_175535.jpg

Red bow is a stock 1964-65 hard top.
Green bow is a '65 or later OEM soft top door bow?
Shiny metal: Real Steel.
20210214_175650.jpg
20210214_180008.jpg

To keep early hard doors soft top compatible a door bow would need to be found or fabricated as described by @Pin_Head in this thread: Post in thread 'DIY OEM soft top bows' DIY OEM soft top bows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-oem-soft-top-bows.607074/post-7792457

1613358934520.png
 
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pacific grove, CA
I once started modifying later two piece hard top bows and as I recall the early hard doors fit, but that may have been while leaving the beveled piece out.View attachment 2585600
@red66toy , @Aravind Dileepan
Thanks so much for this, for now I took out the window tracks and just have the lower half of the doors on. I am still waiting on the fabric part of the soft top before I modify anything
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
109
Location
pacific grove, CA
Weighing in on a sort of related topic of using hard doors on a 1964 FJ40 with Real Steel soft top bows. The length of my early stock hard top door bow is basically angle iron with some flourishes. Later OEM and Real Steel soft top door bows bevel the inside corner and this material really gets in the way of an early stock hard door. I don't know if an early stock soft top door bow fixes this issue.

View attachment 2585554
Red bow is a stock 1964-65 hard top.
Green bow is a '65 or later OEM soft top door bow?
Shiny metal: Real Steel.
View attachment 2585555View attachment 2585556
To keep early hard doors soft top compatible a door bow would need to be found or fabricated as described by @Pin_Head in this thread: Post in thread 'DIY OEM soft top bows' DIY OEM soft top bows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-oem-soft-top-bows.607074/post-7792457

View attachment 2585587
It looks like my hard top is unlike any of your examples, the saga continues...it is allegedly a 5/1969 hardtop, or so i was led to believe.

9680334B-47F1-435A-A6CE-BB86C2012569.jpeg
 

HelloKitty65

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Looks like a bit of both designs. If you remove the cover to the inside corner, does that make enough room for your hard door? A weatherstrip would need to be added like shown in the red bow.
 
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Looks like a bit of both designs. If you remove the cover to the inside corner, does that make enough room for your hard door? A weatherstrip would need to be added like shown in the red bow.
The weatherstrip is on my door, right now i have the window frame out and the real steel frame on the truck and it works, i just have no windows at the moment. I am still waiting for the top to come in. I’m not sure i follow what you mean by the cover to the inside corner.
 
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@upperblack, no. Only interior lights in mine are Vader lights.

@Seamus, this piece is removable. It hides the bolts holding the piece to the fiberglass cap.View attachment 2587632
I think you have it backwards, my hardtop works fine, the soft top is new and the top of the door hits my real steel bow before the door closes but the hard top is fine. The hard top seems to be about 1.25-1.5” narrower at the top of the door than the hardtop
 
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HelloKitty65

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Think of the door bow as a rigid piece connecting the top of the windshield to the B pillar. It offers a few feet of flat for the fiberglass cap's weatherstripping to seal, and a place for a few bolts to help hold the cap down.

You don't see those bolts because they are hidden by the removable trim/beveled piece outlined in the picture above.

Removing this trim made space for my early hard doors. But our situations may be entirely different.

I just removed that beveled 'trim' as I'm calling it, from my Real Steel soft top door bow. It was tack welded in half a dozen spots. Now my hard doors close easily, fit like a glove, and I have the channel to hold my canvas. Got my cake and I'm eating it too.
20210217_000744.jpg

20210217_000548.jpg

PS: the B pillar fits great too, with no mods:
20210214_195134.jpg
 
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Joined
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Messages
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pacific grove, CA
Think of the door bow as a rigid piece connecting the top of the windshield to the B pillar. It offers a few feet of flat for the fiberglass cap's weatherstripping to seal, and a place for a few bolts to help hold the cap down.

You don't see those bolts because they are hidden by the removable trim/beveled piece outlined in the picture above.

Removing this trim made space for my early hard doors. But our situations may be entirely different.

I just removed that beveled 'trim' as I'm calling it, from my Real Steel soft top door bow. It was tack welded in half a dozen spots. Now my hard doors close easily, fit like a glove, and I have the channel to hold my canvas. Got my cake and I'm eating it too.View attachment 2587824
View attachment 2587825
PS: the B pillar fits great too, with no mods:
View attachment 2587826
Ok, that makes sense now, ill look into it. Thank you for your pics and explanation.
 

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