Selling my 40 - question about engine serial numbers vs VIN? (1 Viewer)

[Weber Sarge]

Time to let go, move on. I've been curious, due to a basically unknown history - is there any source of information to determine whether or not my Cruiser's engine is original ? Old Mopars are easy - the VIN is dupliated into the engine's serial number, hence their insane values if they are numbers matching.

My '77 is a March built NA vehicle, serial is 219344. Engine number is 2F 155 145....any clues as to if it's period correct or original ? I was told it was the original motor, but don't totally trust the previous owner who was just flipping it for a profit. Engine runs really strong, I almost suspect it's either been rebuilt or has very low miles - or just lucky.

Second question - I've already had several ask about shipping the truck, which could be done but only if they make the arrangements/expense. Between the truck and it's parts stash I have, it's going to be quite a load. What I'm really wondering about is secured payment - last car I sold to a private party was done at my bank, in person via direct account to account transfer. That, I know is reasonably secure and cannot be undone or rescinded, is there any other acceptable methods to prevent a problem?
Cash is King, but done remotely is tough...

Sarge

 

[thebigredrocker]

I bet @Indygbd has bought/sold enough rigs to have good advice to offer.

 

[Splangy]

After 1964, they stopped stamping the data plate win the engine serial number. You can get a good idea based on production date and the info on this forum and SOR website, but there’s no certainty in it. Because of that, collectors don’t twally seem to care with these trucks. It’s not like the muscle car world.

 

[shawnfj40]

I have never had a problem with bank drafts. They get deposited and I don’t release what I am selling until my bank assures me it has cleared. There is no way for someone to take money once your bank clears it.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I knew at one time they engraved the plates with the engine serial, didn't realized it was stopped that early in production years. I was just curious more than anything, otherwise the engine appears to be original to the vehicle, which is good. Doesn't ever appear to have had the head off, either, odd.

Bank drafts, once cleared are fine. But, cashiers checks can be faked easily as well - per a warning directly from my personal bank. I honestly don't think there's anything besides cold, hard cash or direct account transfers that is secure, just wondered what other methods others used. I will not sign a title until money is cleared, either way.

Got a really nasty attitude from the GSD the other day while I was cleaning out his water bowl and leash, he laid next to it the whole time and wouldn't move - he must know it's going away soon and the rides in it will stop. Actually, he's had a crap attitude since, lol...

Sarge

 

[Robert Keller]

Your best bet to make sure you have payment is a wire transfer to your bank account. Your bank will supply you with the transfer information to give to the buyer. If the buyer sends the wire before noon you should see the funds arrive same day. If I were the purchaser, I would want a copy of the title, a copy of the seller's drivers license and proof of a current address (a current utility bill for example). Both sides of the transaction need to know that the other side is legitimate. My seller sent the title via overnight after the funds hit the account and I flew out to take delivery to make sure the vehicle was as represented before I took delivery.

 

[sproggy]

Paypal works well. They pay with a credit card and the transfer is immediate. But come to think of it if you don't already have an account I think there are some limits until you've established yourself. There is always Western Union or MoneyGram, too.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Wire transfer is what I basically did when I sold the car - just directly at the bank in person, with the buyer, worked excellent and both of us were satisfied. I really don't want to deal with a buyer sight unseen, prefer to deal with someone face to face.

Build date on the truck is 03/77...? At least that's what the main tag says on the door jamb.

Sarge

 

[AutaviaFJ40]

Paypal works well. They pay with a credit card and the transfer is immediate. But come to think of it if you don't already have an account I think there are some limits until you've established yourself. There is always Western Union or MoneyGram, too.

The ONLY method for large transactions is cash or wire transfer...anything else potentially risks a chargeback, even PayPal.
The bigger issue with PayPal is the fees though. I would only accept cash or wire transfer for a large face to face purchase like a vehicle. Western Union and MoneyGram are common scammer tools...generally if the buyer suggests Western Union, its a sign to walk away.

 

[Weber Sarge]

That's what I figured - appreciate the insight guys, it helps a lot to make a rotten situation a bit easier. Not sure what I'd do without this forum, MUD rocks....period.


Sarge

 

[Indygbd]

I have a zero balance account at my bank. I always request wire transfer. In order to do that, you need to provide your routing and account information. The zero balance account ensures that once the money hits the account it automatically transfers the money to another account. Hence maintaining a zero balance. This keeps you protected by ensuring someone can not use your information to remove money from your account or make fake checks using your real routing and account number.
PayPal does not give you seller protection or buyer protection for purchasing autos. That is not safe either.

 

[Martyt]

Wire transfer. If your seller were really cautious, he would request title be escrowed pending receipt of funds— but that is just lawyer talk and for his mother to worry about

 

[Weber Sarge]

Hmmm, now I'm wondering if the title and door jamb tag were swapped off a '77 onto a '76 donor rig, ggrrr. That would explain some panels having a different base color from dune beige, some are blue and others are red - that's enough to justify a beating of the PO....

The zero balance account is a great idea. I have a buddy that uses one for his Paypal setup, funds are transferred through his bank app when he needs to make Paypal purchases to protect his main account from being locked or messed with by Paypal's policies. Think I'll talk to the bank and do just that - they offer free checking accounts and I can use that to isolate things away from my personal account/information.
Great idea, thanks for that.

I'll grab a photo of that VIN plate from the door jamb, this is really bugging me.

Sarge

 

[Weber Sarge]

Well, something is off in the information, either the data base or this particular truck. Door jamb VIN tag matches to the frame serial - all the same.

Does @beno or @cruiserdan have access to frame/build date info? Far too easy to swap things around from various rigs to make a complete one, I know some parts are not original to this '77, or whatever it is. North American market seems to be a bit fuzzy at times anyway, perhaps the dates don't line up due to production versus export time frames?

Sarge

 

[JohnnyC]

You original post is off

You posted 219344

Tag says 244319 tag is correct for 3/77

But it’s ok because I read your engine number wrong .... I thought I read 115xxx but... the number you posted 155xxx is correct for the time frame and looks to be original

 

[1969FJ]

One thing for sure, the door jam tag is screwed into it and all were originally riveted. So, someone was doing something.

 

[Indygbd]

One thing for sure, the door jam tag is screwed into it and all were originally riveted. So, someone was doing something.

Since the frame number and door data plate have matching numbers, my guess is that someone did a tub replacement at one time and swapped the vin plate onto the donor tub. That is why they screwed it on. I would be more concerned if the frame number did not match. People are always swapping bodies on these cruisers. I would rivet the plate back on though just so it looks more original.

 

[Weber Sarge]

You're right - I pulled the number out of my head and that was obviously a mistake, lol - glad that got solved. I noticed the screws when I bought it and brought that up with the seller - he claimed it was pulled off during the paint work, but the black paint obviously goes around the tag, looks like it was just masked off - albeit sloppy at best.

Is there any obvious signs that can identify a '77 tub ? I know all the various holes for the jack, tool bag, starter handle brackets/clips, jack handles, ect...they are all there. Vacuum hose on the booster is dated in '77, as is the booster itself. No real idea on this thing's history - that's all I was concerned about and my point is to represent it the best that I can in an honest manner.

I do appreciate the help/insight - you guys rock.

Sarge

 

[Living in the Past]

77 is pretty easy to indentify as long as the tub has not been messed with. 77 will not have the vent in the center of the cowl like 66-76. Nor will it have the brake/seat belt lights in the face of the dash like 78-82 on LHD. Those we're on a bracket bolted to the bottom of the dash left of the steering wheel. There should also be another VIN plaque on the passenger's fender below the battery. It is held on with two sheet metal screws.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Ok - forgot about those items - thanks, I'll check it out today to make sure. I know the interior metal is there for the cowl vent, but it's closed off on the outside, not sure if that was factory or not. As in the door jamb pic, the seat belt/brake lamp pod is on a bracket below the dash by itself and still works as it should.

Memory is a bit fuzzy, but I did have the heater box out to reseal and clean the heater core out - there was something odd about that cowl...but that was within the first year when I bought the truck.

Sarge