MatthewMcD
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- #141
Having watched the videos above, I now understand this statement!
Seeking Advice for Suspension Upgrade
- Thread starter MatthewMcD
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- springs suspension
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Well technically I should have the pinion flange down at 4* to match the tcase flange, I run it at 10*( pointed at tcase flange because if I dont it wont drop out all the way to suspension stop without ears hitting, I custom ground the dline flanges so the ears have room and it does have a bit of vib at certain speeds when let off throttle.
The Skyjacker Softride springs are excellent as far as ride quality goes once they're broken in. I've had them on three different 40's and they are going on my '72 also. I'm going with a 2.5" but they are also available in a 4". I would order the kit without shocks and go with Bilstiens. You'll love it.
MatthewMcD
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- #145
Everything arrived yesterday. Today was day one of removing the rear springs. I got a late start and summer has returned to Texas, so there is a mix of sweat and PB Blaster on the floor, lots of rust and dirt mixed in. I was able to get the rear shackles off with some hammer and punch persuasion. The fixed ends are a different story. They are very difficult to shift. The pins are rusted inside the dried bushings. I blasted everything with penetrating oil and decided to call it a night. Tomorrow's another day.
RevISK
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The fixed side gets you. I meant to check in with you but life and stuff.
Just go with your nuclear option on them, whatever it is. They will not play nice.
This bastard fought hard and was the easiest one.
Green Bean
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^^ What he said. If I recall, I employed the torch. It stunk up the garage pretty badly, but in the end they gave up the fight.
Sawzall
This, I would not mess with anything else.
MatthewMcD
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- #150
I finished up the rear end and started on the front. One issue I encountered is the driver's side upper shock mount is stripped. Apparently by the PO. All the rest were 12mm castle nuts and this one is now 10mm and stripped. I'll need to figure out how to get a die on it up under the chassis. I went ahead and mounted everything so I could show you all the progress and get an inspection. I think I have everything oriented the right way, let me know if I missed a detail. These are the driver's side, passenger side is a mirror.
I am super excited, the ride height in back is significantly better.
I am super excited, the ride height in back is significantly better.
I’ve read your thread and hate to hear what you have been through. Except for some Alcans I had built for a pig, I’ve purchased maybe 5 sets of OME 2.5” lifts for 40’s and 62 series from Kurt at cruiseroutfitters.
I’ve had zero issues except for little caster work.
Looking good!!
I’ve had zero issues except for little caster work.
Looking good!!
MatthewMcD
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- #152
Thanks! I am amazed at how complete this kit is. The only parts that I have to go hunt for now are replacement washers and castle nuts for the shock installation. My shock mount hardware was toast. I was planning on getting some stainless fender washers unless someone says that I really need those $3 curved washers...
Round outer dies are for cutting threads, octagonal/hexagonal are for chasing threads - usually.
On mine it looks like the "bolt" is welded in. Center punch the dimple, drill it out, install new bolt and weld it in
On mine it looks like the "bolt" is welded in. Center punch the dimple, drill it out, install new bolt and weld it in
@MatthewMcD Your post has a lot of attention and I have read all of it and a ton on springs…I know you’re putting in all the work and energy but I feel like I’m right in there with you. Waiting on some information on the Terrain Tamer parabolic springs ONLY BECAUSE I’m looking for a softer ride (within the scope of soft for an FJ40)… now that the Sniper and Hyperspark are done, I have the disk brake conversion, steering knuckle rebuild and spring/shock replacement all on my calendar for starting this coming weekend and however long it takes me beyond that.
Looking really great…you have all my vicarious support!
Looking really great…you have all my vicarious support!
Looking forward to your review (post flexing). Nice work and “way to stay with it”.
MatthewMcD
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- #156
Thanks @knuckle47 that means a lot. Mine came to me with the mini truck conversion, so I just rebuilt the drums on the back (a year ago) and the calipers on the front about a month ago. Same time I did my steering knuckles.
The one piece of gear I am missing is a lift. I spent most of the day on the ground. This morning my elbows and knees are letting me know about it.
One more spring to go.
MatthewMcD
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- Thread starter
- #157
Mine looks the same. I didn't know about the thread chasing dies, I'll have a look.
I am going to try and fix it in place for now. Replacing it will have to wait 'till I take the body off (and learn to weld.)
@MatthewMcD I can sympathize with you on that. All in my 40’s and 50’s I did much work on motorcycles and 90% on the garage floor and even then, my joints felt it. When I retired, I took some money and built the pole barn 2 yrs ago. I should have had this way back when…my productivity and enjoy,ent would have risen substantially. This works pretty well for me these days 
MatthewMcD
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- Thread starter
- #159
Ran into another issue on the front passenger shock mount. The front shocks did come with replacement hardware, unlike the rears, but the threads required to get the castle nut started just aren't there, So I got it "good enough" to move it back into place while I order new castle nuts all around.
I ended up dropping the front drive shaft so I could get the axle seated correctly on the caster shims. That made it really easy to dial in the placement. After I reconnected the drive shaft and got the tires on I spun the drive shaft and it hits the skid plate on one of the 4 universal join lugs. I'll address that this weekend.
And here is the result. I think it looks amazing. The kit created the clearance I was looking for in the rear wheel well. That's where I picked up the biggest boost. Before on top, After below.
A big Thank You to @cruiseroutfit for your attention to detail on the shipment. I got to the bottom of the box and found this! I'll have to add some velcro for morale patches!
I ended up dropping the front drive shaft so I could get the axle seated correctly on the caster shims. That made it really easy to dial in the placement. After I reconnected the drive shaft and got the tires on I spun the drive shaft and it hits the skid plate on one of the 4 universal join lugs. I'll address that this weekend.
And here is the result. I think it looks amazing. The kit created the clearance I was looking for in the rear wheel well. That's where I picked up the biggest boost. Before on top, After below.
A big Thank You to @cruiseroutfit for your attention to detail on the shipment. I got to the bottom of the box and found this! I'll have to add some velcro for morale patches!
"Its always something" Danna Rosanna Danna. Castle nuts with a cotter pin worked for years. Nylocks and thread locker could be a good substitute. I haven't seen rust crawl under threadlocker yet.
Looks nice. Has your pumpkin to ground clearance improved?
Looks nice. Has your pumpkin to ground clearance improved?