No sense in making it difficult if you don't have to.
Hell yes. The anti Jmack method lol
Second round build
- Thread starter mtnpig
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Hell yes. The anti Jmack method lol
Don’t you have some OEM nuts to polish?
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- #23
I saw that post a couple days ago. Good deal, I like the idea of drilling and tapping the clips. A bit of stock rivets and elroberds techniques mixed together.No sense in making it difficult if you don't have to.
OME springs?
Ha ha, I think he was heading down to the truck stop to pick up some big girls...
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- #26
Yes OME springs.
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- #27
Making a little head way. Drivers side outboard perches mostly welded. Passengers side still has a bit of welding to do.
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- #28
Ok so I need a little help here. Neither of my wagons have complete rocker panels behind at the fender. I am waiting on axle parts so jumped back to the rockers today and A-pillar/front door post. Does the rocker just continue to slope / feather into the post and terminate with a 1/2 lap bent at 90° all they way to the bottom of the rocker panel?
If anyone has a good photo of this area I would appreciate it...Thanks
If anyone has a good photo of this area I would appreciate it...Thanks
I'll see if I can take 1 today 
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
Wow!! This is going to be good. Following!!!!
What do you have to do to get a 2uzfe to run on it's own? Do you have to flash the computer like a LS? Is there any threads her on how to motor swap a 2uzfe?
Thanks, MM
What do you have to do to get a 2uzfe to run on it's own? Do you have to flash the computer like a LS? Is there any threads her on how to motor swap a 2uzfe?
Thanks, MM
- Thread starter
- #31
I
I did a bit of research and when it came down to it just a lot of going over the original Tundra electric manual. It helped that I had the entire Tundra to pull harness and components from. Once you have the complete diagram it's just a matter of tracing the sources back to the appropriate fuse/relays and incorporating your own. I paid Kelvin at CarTunes NZ for his written instructions. $135 US, however he took a few weeks to get me the files and I had already figured it out on my own. A bit frustrating but his files did clarify the C/O relay better for me, so it's not a total waste. Plus I might need his help with some other loose ends later? As far a threads there are a couple, most of the info I found was for cars and 4runners, from Google searches. But it really doesn't mater if it's running a log splitter or a car it just needs power to the correct circuits. I don't know that I understand enough about electronics to get a manual to run correctly though. I think that would require some new hardware, tricking the ECM.
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- #32
I forgot to mention my 9yr old son got in on the fun yesterday. I had him fusion weld one of the reverse bends I couldn't complete in my brake. This is for the a pillar post bottom.
Pics! If you need more let me know!
Top pic. Outside of rocker ends where door ends!
Next pic. From above it curves inward towards the inner rocker panel and ends where they join!
Last pic you can see
Next pic. From above it curves inward towards the inner rocker panel and ends where they join!
Last pic you can see
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
Thanks! I have a 02 Sequoia with a 4.7 and it is bullet proof. I have thought often about what it would take to put one in a 40 or 55. I am glad to see that it is a option and that there are few people doing it. Thanks again!!
I love seeing your son weld. My son started when he was about nine as well
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- #36
@bobm thanks that helps. I assumed that's what needed to happen but I just wanted to be sure. Please confirm the tear drop behind the the lower fender then caps over the rocker at the bottom with a 90° bend that makes it way to the bottom of the vehicle flushing out with rocker, correct?
Any thoughts on weather this "tear drop" supports the fender with the rubber padding to minimize deflection in the fender, or is just to clean things up visually when the door is open, and more of a wheel well liner? Also what
are most people using to replace the rubber?
Any thoughts on weather this "tear drop" supports the fender with the rubber padding to minimize deflection in the fender, or is just to clean things up visually when the door is open, and more of a wheel well liner? Also what
are most people using to replace the rubber?
I'm planning on using closed-cell foam. The old open-cell foam that was used originally was completely wasted, not to mention it retains moisture.
Not sure what your talking about 
- Thread starter
- #39
Rush55's comment about pigs retaining water, or the "Tear drop"? Unfortunately I think we all know about pigs retaining water. Bob in your first photo you can see the panel with the foam still attached for about 8-10", which I am calling the "tear drop".Not sure what your talking about
Not sure what your talking about
Piece of sheetmetal hanging out in space with a 90* bent edge on the front of the lower portion of the A-pillar. Gives support to the rear portion of the lower front fender. Most people probably call it, you know, the thing. All pig fenders are created equal, and partly held in place by, by you know, the thing.
