Sandy the Tan FJ60 (4 Viewers)

[LETSROLLEM]

You've heard the saying "Putting lipstick on a pig"? Well here it is.

While I had the bumpers off, it motivated me to remove the grill which was badly faded, as were all of the plastics, and give all the plastics a coat of paint. The grill, headlight buckets, Toyota emblem, fender vents, mirrors, and pillar vents all got a coat of semi-gloss black.

Gave the Toyota emblem a coat of matching body paint instead of the factory white.
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Mirrors were disassembled and painted:
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And vents:
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Just did the same to my headlight surrounds and grill. Painted my “TOYOTA” white. Need to do the rear pillar vents

 

[Skniper]

Lots of little items done today in preparation of the first ONSC club event of the year this weekend.

First was to finally extend the breathers for the axles. Didn't do the transmission breather at this time. Ran them both up to the engine bay. New valves, clips, and hose front and rear.
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Then replaced the heater hose which one of the POs had put a port in and caused the pipe to kink. The rear heater was always WAY hotter than the front heater and I thought this may have played a role. I replaced it with some green stripe hose, burped the system again, and now the front heater is just as hot at the rear. WIN!
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Also put in a cheap dash pad to help preserve my *relatively crack free dash. Planning to re-adjust it once it gets a few days in the sun and flattens out a bit more.
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Care to share #'s for the extended breather valves & clips & clamps, clean.

 

[Hokie LX]

Care to share #'s for the extended breather valves & clips & clamps, clean.

Thanks. I pieced some stuff together to make them and then reused the factory holders and just relocated them to the engine bay and anchored them on existing bolt holes.

Breathers - 90930-03097
Clips - 96132-30600
25ft of 1/4" fuel line - Amazon product ASIN B0013FXTTU

 

[Hokie LX]

Just did the same to my headlight surrounds and grill. Painted my “TOYOTA” white. Need to do the rear pillar ventsView attachment 2940766

It is such an easy and worthwhile thing to do to improve the aesthetic of the truck. Especially in my case where all the plastic was faded and chipped from a previous round of spray paint. Looks good.

 

[LETSROLLEM]

It is such an easy and worthwhile thing to do to improve the aesthetic of the truck. Especially in my case where all the plastic was faded and chipped from a previous round of spray paint. Looks good.

You’re right, easy “upgrade”, but still getting used to it. Because my 60 is white, kinda makes it look like a raccoon or The Lone Ranger

 

[Hokie LX]

Another day, another small item off the neverending checklist.

Truck had a 4wd sensor wiring mod done to reduce weight and increase vehicle performance when I bought it.

New sensor put in today and now the light in the dash works!

 

[Hokie LX]

Drove the truck for the first time in a month and a half over to my buddy @GLTHFJ60's house to grab some parts from his 2F days. Believe it or not, he had a trusty 2F in his rig at some point but has since been hypnotized by the dark side of turbos, glow plugs, and torque.

Drive was about 30 minutes round trip and when I got home I noticed the distinct smell of brakes. Turns out my e-brake was not releasing on both sides to varying degrees. Driver side read 150* when I pulled in and the passenger read 275*. Pulled the drums and actuated the e-brake and sure enough, it tightens but doesn't release. I disassembled the mechanism on each side and removed the boot and cleaned them out until they actuated freely. Still need to readjust the shoes but truck drives better now.


Yesterday I started soaking the rear bumper bolts which were rusty in the pics previously in some rust remover and then gave them a coat of paint last as well as the hardware. Having put all the effort into the frame, having old rusty bolts on the rear bumper just killed the look.

The winch power wires were previously pushed through some big rubber tube for protection which had since fallen apart and split due to wear points where the wires were routed. I put some nice sheathing over them today and hooked them back up.

 

[Hokie LX]

New sliders went on last night just in time for the first ONSC club event of the year.

WKOR DOM tubing, standard angle, bare metal. I coated them in POR DTM topcoat.

 

[Hokie LX]

Truck made it to it's first club event this weekend. It was roughly a 2 hour drive each way and truck ran great however the truck developed a whistle under load on the way back. It is only audible at 20-80% throttle but it is higher pitched at partial throttle and lower pitched as you give it more gas. It isn't audible at no throttle or full throttle.

Weird part is it takes ~8-10 seconds of being at partial throttle for it to come on and then it stays until you either go no gas or full gas. I will check into it tomorrow but didn't see anything obvious during a quick look. Any ideas?


In other news, late night drinks around the campfire resulted in the truck finally getting a name...Sandy.

 

[Hokie LX]

Updated the thread name to reflect the girl's new name. Now to continue documenting the life and adventures of Sandy the Tan 60.

 

[Hokie LX]

Pulled the axle yesterday to start tearing into it for a full brake, knuckle, and seal rebuild. Space is limited in the garage with the bikes and truck in there but there's just enough space to have room to work.

Today I tore down the driver side and will do the passenger tomorrow and start prepping for paint pending weather. Lots of wire wheeling, scraping, and cleaning ahead of me before paint can go on due to the years of a leaking PS pump and mud/grime packed in everywhere. Driver side bearing preload nuts were loosened by hand and had no torque on them whatsoever. Luckily at least the washer tabs were bent down to the keep them from completely coming loose...

The seal at least on the driver side was toast. Bearing were completely washed out and knuckle was full of soup.

 

[Hokie LX]

Few updates. Still waiting on parts to get the axle put back together so I've been spending time cleaning some items up and installing new parts. Hoping to get parts in hand this week and get the axle rebuilt and back in the truck this weekend and then start on the rear.

Parts: still waiting on some more knuckle studs, flange studs/hardware, and new wheel studs.
- Tie rods
- New calipers, rotors, pads, booster, master
- Backing plate eliminators and stainless lines
- All new hardware for knuckles, flanges, etc.
- Marlin crawler seals, Cruiser outfitters rebuild kit.
- All new bearings obviously.
- New brass axle bushings
- Speed bleeders

Scrubbed, wire brushed and painted the axle. Knuckle balls were surprisingly clean with no pitting.

 

[Hokie LX]

Did the knuckles and hubs also. These were what the knuckles and hubs looked like before. I had already taken a screwdriver and paint scraper to them to try and get most of the gunk off.

While I was waiting on parts I put the new booster and master in.

 

[euclid537]

Which booster is that?

 

[Hokie LX]

Which booster is that?

It's the City Racer Booster

 

[SFROMAN]

Started my project today to get the chassis cleaned up and coated. Got the rear bumper removed, started taking the brackets off of the frame and started wire wheeling the rear half. Will take the next few days to finish prepping the frame and then applying the coating.

The inside of the frame will get Corroseal and then Eastwood internal frame coating followed by some Fluid film.

The outside of the chassis will get POR15 applied with Top Coat. Fluid film will go in some tight areas just for good measure but the whole chassis won't get coated.

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Taking the bumper off reminded me of the trailer brake wiring from one of the POs which had to go since I won't be towing with this thing, especially anything that would need a trailer brake. Been meaning to take this off for a while now.
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Hard to show but got my new ignition cylinder from @ToyotaMatt that is keyed to match my doors. Happy to finally have the whole truck using one key.
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I need to do this for my mini truck. But need the door locks to match the ignition key.
Any pointers on where to look?
I’m going to try search here in mud and the internet but just in case I can’t find any I figure your source might have what I need.

 

[SFROMAN]

Never mind Chris. Found what I need.

 

[roadstr6]

Chris, The whistle you mentioned a few posts back is an intake leak. Lots of times the leak is under the carb. Check to make sure the carb hold-down nuts are tight. I have also experienced a whistle that was a result of an intake manifold leak. Check the manifold to head bolts to ensure they are all tight.

 

[Hokie LX]

Chris, The whistle you mentioned a few posts back is an intake leak. Lots of times the leak is under the carb. Check to make sure the carb hold-down nuts are tight. I have also experienced a whistle that was a result of an intake manifold leak. Check the manifold to head bolts to ensure they are all tight.

Thanks, Dave! Johnny and I were talking about this the other week and that idea came up. I'm glad there's some merit behind it. I'll double check the carb and manifold bolts before the road trip in a couple days and see if it fixes it.

 

[onemanarmy]

Great transformation....love the wheel/tire combo.