Just did the same to my headlight surrounds and grill. Painted my “TOYOTA” white. Need to do the rear pillar vents
Builds Sandy the Tan FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hokie LX
- Start date
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Care to share #'s for the extended breather valves & clips & clamps, clean.
- Thread starter
- #123
Thanks. I pieced some stuff together to make them and then reused the factory holders and just relocated them to the engine bay and anchored them on existing bolt holes.
Breathers - 90930-03097
Clips - 96132-30600
25ft of 1/4" fuel line - Amazon product ASIN B0013FXTTU
- Thread starter
- #124
It is such an easy and worthwhile thing to do to improve the aesthetic of the truck. Especially in my case where all the plastic was faded and chipped from a previous round of spray paint. Looks good.
You’re right, easy “upgrade”, but still getting used to it. Because my 60 is white, kinda makes it look like a raccoon or The Lone Ranger
- Thread starter
- #126
Another day, another small item off the neverending checklist.
Truck had a 4wd sensor wiring mod done to reduce weight and increase vehicle performance when I bought it.
New sensor put in today and now the light in the dash works!
Truck had a 4wd sensor wiring mod done to reduce weight and increase vehicle performance when I bought it.
New sensor put in today and now the light in the dash works!
- Thread starter
- #127
Drove the truck for the first time in a month and a half over to my buddy @GLTHFJ60's house to grab some parts from his 2F days. Believe it or not, he had a trusty 2F in his rig at some point but has since been hypnotized by the dark side of turbos, glow plugs, and torque.
Drive was about 30 minutes round trip and when I got home I noticed the distinct smell of brakes. Turns out my e-brake was not releasing on both sides to varying degrees. Driver side read 150* when I pulled in and the passenger read 275*. Pulled the drums and actuated the e-brake and sure enough, it tightens but doesn't release. I disassembled the mechanism on each side and removed the boot and cleaned them out until they actuated freely. Still need to readjust the shoes but truck drives better now.
Yesterday I started soaking the rear bumper bolts which were rusty in the pics previously in some rust remover and then gave them a coat of paint last as well as the hardware. Having put all the effort into the frame, having old rusty bolts on the rear bumper just killed the look.
The winch power wires were previously pushed through some big rubber tube for protection which had since fallen apart and split due to wear points where the wires were routed. I put some nice sheathing over them today and hooked them back up.
Drive was about 30 minutes round trip and when I got home I noticed the distinct smell of brakes. Turns out my e-brake was not releasing on both sides to varying degrees. Driver side read 150* when I pulled in and the passenger read 275*. Pulled the drums and actuated the e-brake and sure enough, it tightens but doesn't release. I disassembled the mechanism on each side and removed the boot and cleaned them out until they actuated freely. Still need to readjust the shoes but truck drives better now.
Yesterday I started soaking the rear bumper bolts which were rusty in the pics previously in some rust remover and then gave them a coat of paint last as well as the hardware. Having put all the effort into the frame, having old rusty bolts on the rear bumper just killed the look.
The winch power wires were previously pushed through some big rubber tube for protection which had since fallen apart and split due to wear points where the wires were routed. I put some nice sheathing over them today and hooked them back up.
- Thread starter
- #128
New sliders went on last night just in time for the first ONSC club event of the year.
WKOR DOM tubing, standard angle, bare metal. I coated them in POR DTM topcoat.
WKOR DOM tubing, standard angle, bare metal. I coated them in POR DTM topcoat.
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- Thread starter
- #129
Truck made it to it's first club event this weekend. It was roughly a 2 hour drive each way and truck ran great however the truck developed a whistle under load on the way back. It is only audible at 20-80% throttle but it is higher pitched at partial throttle and lower pitched as you give it more gas. It isn't audible at no throttle or full throttle.
Weird part is it takes ~8-10 seconds of being at partial throttle for it to come on and then it stays until you either go no gas or full gas. I will check into it tomorrow but didn't see anything obvious during a quick look. Any ideas?
In other news, late night drinks around the campfire resulted in the truck finally getting a name...Sandy.
Weird part is it takes ~8-10 seconds of being at partial throttle for it to come on and then it stays until you either go no gas or full gas. I will check into it tomorrow but didn't see anything obvious during a quick look. Any ideas?
In other news, late night drinks around the campfire resulted in the truck finally getting a name...Sandy.
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- Thread starter
- #130
Updated the thread name to reflect the girl's new name. Now to continue documenting the life and adventures of Sandy the Tan 60.
- Thread starter
- #131
Pulled the axle yesterday to start tearing into it for a full brake, knuckle, and seal rebuild. Space is limited in the garage with the bikes and truck in there but there's just enough space to have room to work.
Today I tore down the driver side and will do the passenger tomorrow and start prepping for paint pending weather. Lots of wire wheeling, scraping, and cleaning ahead of me before paint can go on due to the years of a leaking PS pump and mud/grime packed in everywhere. Driver side bearing preload nuts were loosened by hand and had no torque on them whatsoever. Luckily at least the washer tabs were bent down to the keep them from completely coming loose...
The seal at least on the driver side was toast. Bearing were completely washed out and knuckle was full of soup.
Today I tore down the driver side and will do the passenger tomorrow and start prepping for paint pending weather. Lots of wire wheeling, scraping, and cleaning ahead of me before paint can go on due to the years of a leaking PS pump and mud/grime packed in everywhere. Driver side bearing preload nuts were loosened by hand and had no torque on them whatsoever. Luckily at least the washer tabs were bent down to the keep them from completely coming loose...
The seal at least on the driver side was toast. Bearing were completely washed out and knuckle was full of soup.
- Thread starter
- #132
Few updates. Still waiting on parts to get the axle put back together so I've been spending time cleaning some items up and installing new parts. Hoping to get parts in hand this week and get the axle rebuilt and back in the truck this weekend and then start on the rear.
Parts: still waiting on some more knuckle studs, flange studs/hardware, and new wheel studs.
- Tie rods
- New calipers, rotors, pads, booster, master
- Backing plate eliminators and stainless lines
- All new hardware for knuckles, flanges, etc.
- Marlin crawler seals, Cruiser outfitters rebuild kit.
- All new bearings obviously.
- New brass axle bushings
- Speed bleeders
Scrubbed, wire brushed and painted the axle. Knuckle balls were surprisingly clean with no pitting.
Parts: still waiting on some more knuckle studs, flange studs/hardware, and new wheel studs.
- Tie rods
- New calipers, rotors, pads, booster, master
- Backing plate eliminators and stainless lines
- All new hardware for knuckles, flanges, etc.
- Marlin crawler seals, Cruiser outfitters rebuild kit.
- All new bearings obviously.
- New brass axle bushings
- Speed bleeders
Scrubbed, wire brushed and painted the axle. Knuckle balls were surprisingly clean with no pitting.
- Thread starter
- #133
Did the knuckles and hubs also. These were what the knuckles and hubs looked like before. I had already taken a screwdriver and paint scraper to them to try and get most of the gunk off.
While I was waiting on parts I put the new booster and master in.
While I was waiting on parts I put the new booster and master in.
Which booster is that?
- Thread starter
- #135
It's the City Racer Booster
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
I need to do this for my mini truck. But need the door locks to match the ignition key.
Any pointers on where to look?
I’m going to try search here in mud and the internet but just in case I can’t find any I figure your source might have what I need.
Chris, The whistle you mentioned a few posts back is an intake leak. Lots of times the leak is under the carb. Check to make sure the carb hold-down nuts are tight. I have also experienced a whistle that was a result of an intake manifold leak. Check the manifold to head bolts to ensure they are all tight.
- Thread starter
- #139
Thanks, Dave! Johnny and I were talking about this the other week and that idea came up. I'm glad there's some merit behind it. I'll double check the carb and manifold bolts before the road trip in a couple days and see if it fixes it.
Great transformation....love the wheel/tire combo.
