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orangefj45 said:
didcha get the trans working? call me later today......
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I can physically shift through the gears with channel locks while under the truck.:o
I think i just may need to run through the gears a few times to loosen it up, maybe?
Talked to rob and he said that the rod can be bent or the valve body could be bad. Should be able to get it running today and see if it even works.
fj40charles said:
Lenny,

Looking good
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Thanks !
 
You ready to get started? Had my Wheaties and ready to go! Holla!
 
Talked to georg yesterday and got some valuable information about my auto...

The gear selector thing is shifting like it should now. Turns out the shift rod was rusted and swelled in the aluminum housing. So rob and I tag teamed her till she acted right .:grinpimp:

So thats working like it should.

Bodean helped me get the rear tube out so we can get the gas tank placed. Ran r fuel lines and cranked that puppy.

Tranny is acting weird .

We shifted it through the gears and the outputs all turned the same direction... Did Not matter If it was is drive or reverse :confused:

So we shut it off. We added more fluid to tranny and tried it again.

This time the outputs went the other way no matter what gear it was in.

I DID NOT have any electrical connections connected (3rd gear lock out, gear indicator) or the vacuum line attached.
We tried vacuum line connection and it did not seem to make a difference.

So we called it a night and watched the UFC fight and will wait for Georg to fly his a$$ out here :D
 
Did not have any driveshafts installed. Does an auto need a load to act right?
 
did you guys remove the pan to work on the internal shift linkage and was that the part that was rusted? if so, then the rest of the valve body is probably rusted as well. if that's the case then you're probably better off with a different trans. internal rust damage is almost impossible to get rid of.

how much fluid do you have in the trans? should be at least 8 quarts.
 
We did remove the pan. When we took the pan no fluid dripped out and there was barely any in the pan. That was with 3 quarts in. 1 quart in the Torque converter and 2 in the tranny. Haynes manual said it requires 3...


We were going to remove the rod but had trouble removing the spring steel pin.
Once we got it started shifting correctly we put it back together.

Pic 1 tranny with old filter
Pic 2 tranny without filter
Pic 3 always a good feeling when you're drilling the tranny . We were trying to drill out spring steel pin to remove rod..to no avail.

I definitely think it wouldn't hurt to add more fluid. I am running a basic tranny cooler as well .

Would the vaccum line not connected effect function or is that just while in drive and going down the street.

GSMTR needs to be moved back : (
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Edit the tranny is currently has 4.5 quarts in it at the the time we tested it. 1 in torque converter, 1 lucas oil treatment, 2.5 regular.
 
that ain't enough.......


you know that dip stick for the trans? it's there for a reason! :flipoff2:


dump two more quarts in it, then check it with the engine running and the trans in park. sshould take close to 8 quarts by the time it's completely full.


never trust a chilton manual. the 3 quarts they told you about is for a service, not a rebuild.


get it! :wrench:
 
Well finish welded the CLC truss gusset
Mocked up brake lines
Finish welded the links and even got some paint on em

Filled the tranny with 7 quarts will check it again tomorrow. Stopped at 7 to see where it is once I get it warm.

Gonna build the exhaust first . aggravating trying to work on it with open headers ...
Need a tube style type of mufflers due to space issues. Picked up a cherry bomb glass pack (yuck) and a walker tube muffler.
The walker muffler is a tube style but more of a muffler. So it should be quieter than the glass pack. Hope so. I can't stand a loud exhaust .
Anyone have any experience with a walker muffler? Picked it up at advance parts.

Carolina driveline is shipping me a flange to make sure the bolt pattern is correct. Hopefully those will be done & shipped by the end of the week.

I plan on filling the airshocks and setting the ride height. Jrob has a N tank I can use, I will try to pick it up tomorrow.

Triple shifter & cables should be in this week so I can get started on the dog house..
 
Wrenching party at Lenny's instead of trip to Lorman on Saturday.

I will be cooking lunch and providing all the beer you need while you stand around.

I won't be there so if you are waiting for me to cook and buy beer you will be hungry and thirsty.....
 
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You better have everything ready for a full on push to finish (or get close)!!! I want that thing running down the road by the end of the weekend.
 
Bodean said:
You better have everything ready for a full on push to finish (or get close)!!! I want that thing running down the road by the end of the weekend.
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Man has an Orion that has been 6 years getting here. Lenny get yo ass finished, This is serious!!!!
 
Bodean said:
You better have everything ready for a full on push to finish (or get close)!!! I want that thing running down the road by the end of the weekend.
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Yes sir thank you sir!

I need a drill sergeant to get my ass in gear..
Hopefully have driveshafts by the end of the week. Should have cable shifters too

wct49 said:
Man has an Orion that has been 6 years getting here. Lenny get yo ass finished, This is serious!!!!
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I need one of those first alert buttons you wear around your neck but instead of "I've fallen and can't get up " it would be "I'm fabbin' and need some help"

Just remembered I needed to add some gussets to the link mounts.. Of course I remembered this after I painted :doh:

No biggie it's just black primer, got tired of seeing rust :mad:

Gonna start on exhaust in a few..
 
Tranny seems to be working right since someone had the bright idea of adding more fluid. :o
Just waiting on cable shifters and dshafts to complete.

Frame and axle are painted just need to add some guessets here and there and touch up.

I will work on gas tank and filter mounts today
brake lines are mocked up
How do you guys attach hard brake line to upper link?

Mount needs to stay on top when adjusting links. I may just zip tie till I get em dialed in.

need to fill the air shocks

I want to take my time with seat selection before I buy some. So that may wait until after GSMTR. Plus it will take 2 weeks to ge em. Choices narrowed down to PRP roadster (~ $250 each ) and custom width seat from twisted stitch ($308 each)
I will order some more Crowe harnesses today.
 
Lenny, if you feel like gettin' fancy with your brake line mounts, you can take a washer and bend it into a round. Then, put the line in the center and you have a nice little cradle with a space for the zip tie to wrap around.

Just a thought. It was free.
 
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