RTH: Installed transfer crawl gear went for test and engine died 50 yrds out of garage

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SmokingRocks

SmokingRocks

hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
10 Year
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
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116
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4,111
Location
Colorado
Installed the TG 3:11 transfer case crawler gear. Put everything back together went for a test drive and noticed the CDL light was flickering then 50 yards later the engine cut out and died.

Engine cranks over just fine, just no fire. What the fxxx.

One connector broke on the TC when we were reinstalling but after checking the FSM we determined it was only the CDL light. Could this cause the whole engine to die? HELP!
 
no fuel.

No power to the Fuel Pump Relay. New Fusible links. Replaced the open circuit relay then got power to the fuel pump relay for a bit. Then it stopped....
 
i dont think the cdl light has anything to do with the issue. also check the main relay and make a fuse dident blow. and let us know how the new low range feels
 
Nukegoat's idea or did you do anything like disconnect the battery, anything of that sort?

Also, seems the last time I was in my floor harness the connector to the pump is outside the cab, about directly as far back as the Transfer case - about in the floorsill area of the DS rear door, from memory. And my memory sucks, so feel free to wave the "you're wrong" flag when/if I am.

I've only gone deep in last gen 80's - but a loose connector there will = crank but no running, just the fuel in the lines & under pressure (50ft seems about fair, yeah?)

At the worst if you have that connector you can stuff some grease in it to keep it happy.

Beyond that and for no good reason a quick poke at the EFI relay might do you good.

I'm betting the check engine light is part/parcel to the no fuel delivery issue, but again just a guess - Kevin & Rick see more of other peoples' 80's where most of us know the quirks of just our own 80.
 
Your living up to your Namesake:
Buy It, Build It, Bash It
 
BlackLS1 said:
i dont think the cdl light has anything to do with the issue. also check the main relay and make a fuse dident blow. and let us know how the new low range feels
Click to expand...

No cel with ignition on means NO power to ECU, which in turns powers the fuel pump.
 
I don't have a bulb in the cel spot but that's going to change with the new gauges that I am building.

Checked the fuses. Also checked for power at the fuel pump relay when cranking, got 0volts. Then went up stream and replaced the open circuit relay with a spare I had retested and got 11volts at the fpr plug. Reconnected the fpr and cranked, it's sputtered after a bit.

Pulled the fpr and retested for volta at that plug. Got 0 volts again when cranking. This was late last night so I was starting to wig out.

Warning Lights that stay on right now: at temp, low oil, brake, A/T P, CDL. Going to hit it with a level head tonight. May try to jump the fuel pump to see if that works.

I knew I was going to set myself up on a tee here.... my skins thick.... I can take it.

Oh btw thanks joey for the front hub poster and the butt plug glass that you sent back with Jonny. You should know that that glass is way too small though, been grabbing my ankles for the last 8years ya know! ;)
 
Also checked all fuses fine. Swapped efi relay with spare, no change. Going to check for power at open circuit relay tonight. That should be a good starting point.
 
Hornd said:
Your living up to your Namesake:
Buy It, Build It, Bash It
Click to expand...

True, but the old girl has a much better life with me than she did with the corner cutting previous owner who we'll call Chaz (because Chaz sounds like a douchey name). I won't deny that I ride her hard, but I scrupulously maintain her. The other day I totaled it up what I can remember spending on my beloved trail snail over the last two years, I wasn't that shocked when the number settled in at around $30,000. If that's not love then IDK what is. Hell I doubt the PO spent more than 500 bucks in maintenance.
 
Atp and cdl shouldent be on when cranking unless the center diff is locked and transfer case in neutral. Something might be shorted down there? But I would imagine it would blow a fuse.
 
Fuel pump is fine, I put 12v to the R-B wire at the FPR plug location. This wire goes directly to the pump. When I hit it with 12 volts it pumped good and strong.

I'm starting to think that my ECU is not telling the fuel pump to turn on. Could it be because of the CDL light connector that isn't connected? the wires were so brittle that when we went to put it back the wires snapped at the connector. I tried to fix it but one of the receiver prongs in the connector broke.

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