RTH: Installed transfer crawl gear went for test and engine died 50 yrds out of garage

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So I think that it may have been the transfer case neutral position switch connector that I broke. So without a signal from the Transfer case neutral position switch will the transmission go into limp mode and prevent the engine from receiving fuel??

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OK love these electrical things...

It started up!

So here what I did:
  • Hot wire fuel pump, saw that it was pumping fuel just fine
  • Tested the circuit open relay - passed
  • tested the FPR - Passed
  • Replaced Main Relay (Tested all, all switches work and all have a resistance of .3 ohms)
  • Checked the resistance of the Fuel Pump Resistor (.8ohms)
  • Charged up the main battery
And thats it. I cranked it over and it fired up.........
 
OK so heres whats up. It will start and run just fine if I have my battery booster hooked up to it.... I did run the rock lights all day yesterday, but the battery meter showed 11 volts on the main battery and 12.7 on the back up so I just linked them and fired it up. Perhaps its a loose connection? These batteries are brand new.

The main battery is at 12 volts now, it may have been at 11 volts last night. Which components need over 11.5 volts to run? Anything on the fuel side?
 
It wasnt the AT position sensor it was the CDL sensor. I have patched the wires and made my own harness that I soldered to the pins.

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I also tested for parasitic drain, I've got a draw of 35.5 mA's with everything off. I've always heard that under 50mA is acceptable. Thoughts?
 
OK Problem PERSIST.

Now my CDL light is not flickering but here are my new symptoms.

1) Transmission can't find gears in Drive (high range), if I shift to low range it works ok and if I manually shift the trans into L it will select first gear. Seems like the shifter isn't getting to the right location.

2) Fuel stops getting delivered about 100 yards away from the garage every time, I had to hot wire the fuel pump to get it home.

Power stops flowing to the FPR, the Closed Circuit Relay. I did get a 50mA value from the wire from the O2 sensor at the Closed Circuit Relay.

Guess I need to put the bulb back in the CEL. Is there a way to check it with a bulb at the diagnostic port?
 
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I would replace the bulb to start with and see if 1 it lights up and 2 if you can start pulling some codes to help you start to get to an area if it throws codes. Have you checked all of your grounds? There could be a break somewhere in the wiring harness that is causing issues the shop I have my 80 at is currently going through a similar issue with mine after a new motor went in so far they have found at least two breaks in the wiring harness that were getting limited connectivity to allow for a start up and drive but when it started to get warm the vehicle would cut off then crank but not start.
 
I would definiely focus on the wiring around the TCase. Did you remove the case or just split it? I just removed a case and was very surprised at the amount of wiring hidden up on top of that thing. Lots of connections got stretched and stressed during removal.

Double check the gear selector and the NSS. I believe there is a ground on the transfer case that goes to the body?
 
Yea I did upsize the ground to the body from races. Perhaps it's a bad connection. I removed the whole case.

Your right about searching around the tcase. I'm thinking the next step is to remove it again.

I will toss a bulb in the CEL tonight.

It's almost like the transmission control unit isn't doing anything, and perhaps the ecu sees a major issue and kills the engine to protect itself?

Can someone explain the fuel pump logic to me? From what I read in the fsm last night it seems like the Ecu has ultimate control over the pump.
 
I didnt read the whole thread yet but since I work in software....
Did you try disconnecting batteries for a while and resetting the ecu?
 
Yes I have and when I do that it seems to clear it and it will start and run. But the result is always the same, I tip into the throttle and it putters and dies. Then when I crank it I have no power to the circuit open relay or FPR.
 
Installed check engine light. Ran the engine until it replicated the issued. Checked for codes and none are showing. It blinks continually.
 
Fuel. Pump. Relay....

I found my trail spare and plugged it in. Thats all it took.

Now my transmission still shifts funky but that just needs a shifter adjustment.
 
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Is there a reason why the a442f Tcm won't enter diagnostic mode? I jumped E1 to Tt and per the fsm it is supposed to blink the O/D OFF light continuously to show normal, or morsecode like the CEL to show fault codes.

Well when I jump them it doesn't change anything.
 
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