RTH: Installed transfer crawl gear went for test and engine died 50 yrds out of garage

[SmokingRocks]

Ok so I've got one of the issues resolved. But one still remains.

The A442F transmission works in reverse and in L, but it doesn't select a gear when shifted into D or 2. It feels like it's trying to, almost like a slipping clutch. Mind you the rig drove perfectly prior to the tcase work. I adjusted the shift linkage this morning by lengthening it. In hindsight I think I should have shortened it.

Next I attempted to put the trans into diagnostic mode following the fsm procedure but it didn't blink at me at all. Which is odd, the fsm doesn't really say what to do if it's not responsive

At this point I think there are three possibilities;

1. Shift linkage is still wrong and needs adjustment
2. The tcm is fried or not getting power
3. I pinched a hardline when jacking up the drive train to remove the slee belly pan causing insufficient line pressure

Thoughts?

 

[SmokingRocks]

So it was a weird coincidence?

I guess, I remember not disconnecting the battery before doing the tcase work so perhaps I caused a voltage surge and impacted several components. I'm baffled that this all happened at the same time.

 

[SmokingRocks]

This is where I will be starting tonight, starting by checking for power to TCM. If there is power then I will move to the process on AT-31. Finding this all very odd.

 

[SmokingRocks]

So I was getting prepped to test if there was power to the TCM when disconnected them from the module and pulled them to work on. And well it was pretty obvious what the issue was, the IGN power supply was cut! Hooked it back up and everything is right as rain now!

I still find it very odd that both the fuel pump relay and this wire caused faults at the exact same time.

Photos:

This little wire is the one highlighted in Red Below.

Here is the FPR. It really doesn't look bad at all, no burn marks... Kind of surprised it was failing.

This is the T-case harness that I pulled out last night. It was pretty natty, I wish I had taken some before photos.

Found several areas with broken insulation, cut them out and soldered new wires in. Ran out of my pro wrap so I plastic wrapped and taped it.

Thanks everyone for your help. I pulled some late nights on this one and really was left scratching my head. These failures came together at such an odd time that it made me question my T-case install. But I prevailed with the help of @JohnnyOshow22!


I learned A LOT more about reading the FSM wiring diagrams now. So there were good things that came from this.


Also I think I would have diagnosed the problem much faster if these two issues came up at different times. Since they both occurred literally right after the T-case gear install I was convinced that they were connected. So I spent a TON of time trying to figure out where the wires associated with each of the affected systems came together.

In hind sight I would focus on ruling out one issue before tackling the other.

 

[BlackLS1]

Wow, excellent diagnosis work there man. I keep a spare FPR in my car. The cut ign wire looks as if it was sliced
With a razor. I can see it causing problems because there is no power to the TCM Im glad it's fixed now. I have removed my T-case before but wiring is not much there just couple of switches which receive no power except for the diff lock motor.

 

[Rwhat]

So, how do you like the gears?

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Kernal]

Was the wire cut or shorted against something else??

 

[SmokingRocks]

I didn't see anything in that area that could have cut it. Then again I didn't look that hard. This is a replacement harness that I installed when I did my whole engine rebuild, perhaps it got nicked on the install.

Fun.

So now I get intermittent drop out under hard acceleration after 15+ mins of running. I think I remember why this Fuel Pump relay was delegated to back up duty only.

Also have code 55 on my ECU. So I ordered new OEM Knock sensor and FPR.

 

[SmokingRocks]

So, how do you like the gears?

Glad you got it fixed.

Haven't had any trail time on them yet. I can say that they are louder than stock (gear whine) just based on my drive around the neighborhood in Low.

 

[retrofive]

Haven't had any trail time on them yet. I can say that they are louder than stock (gear whine) just based on my drive around the neighborhood in Low.

Right? He hasn't made it 100yrds from home.

Some weird electric mojo going there, glad you are closer to resolution. Im of no help in that department.

 

[SmokingRocks]

It's fixed, drove it to work today. Just need to put a fresh FPR and #2 knock sensor in.

 

[1973Guppie]

OK so heres whats up. It will start and run just fine if I have my battery booster hooked up to it.... I did run the rock lights all day yesterday, but the battery meter showed 11 volts on the main battery and 12.7 on the back up so I just linked them and fired it up. Perhaps its a loose connection? These batteries are brand new.

The main battery is at 12 volts now, it may have been at 11 volts last night. Which components need over 11.5 volts to run? Anything on the fuel side?

what do the batteries read voltage wise when running? they should be showing 14+, possibly an alternator or grounding issue? I would check all your grounds, make sure they are clean and tight. Also check to make sure your alt is pushing the necessary voltage your truck needs when running. Bad grounds and a bad alt can cause many weird electrical stuff to happen. Best of luck

 

[1973Guppie]

So it wasn't mud OCD "made in china" that made your car broke down? surprise!