If the diaphragm in your fuel pump fails, gasoline can leak into the oilpan, elevating the oil level and contaminating the gas
Routine oil change ...
- Thread starter Kschep
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #43
What is your guys go to fuel pump? Just curious
- Thread starter
- #45
Oops thats my bad of course oem with a rebuild kit ... I accidentally was thinking the white filter charger, but of course that's not the pump, the silver one! lol 
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #46
So no I did not "replace" that just now when doing the oil , I replaced that about 4months ago with OEM rebuilt one online.
- Thread starter
- #47
I'll take it off and take apart and look it over again , but it was new OEM rebuilt from $OR at the time so I believe it's still good , but I should take a look inside and make sure. Will do that
I like my $10 electric fuel pumps. They last about 10 years. Very handy for transferring fuel to the stove and 4 wheeler.
This is my fuel transfer unit. I run this same style pump on the Elsie for the last 30 years.
It is fused, switched and filtered with 5' of draw and 20' of delivery hose. It can plug into cig lighter or clamp to the battery. Has like a 12' power cord. Will also do diesel. Cost about $50 back then. I use it with 5 gallon gas jugs.
Free downloads of manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
This is my fuel transfer unit. I run this same style pump on the Elsie for the last 30 years.
It is fused, switched and filtered with 5' of draw and 20' of delivery hose. It can plug into cig lighter or clamp to the battery. Has like a 12' power cord. Will also do diesel. Cost about $50 back then. I use it with 5 gallon gas jugs.
Free downloads of manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
- Thread starter
- #49
Ok I got that exact one ironically bec it was the only GL4 product they had at the small local NAPA - everything else was gl5 rated obscurely written on the back of each little pour-type smaller bottle - so I just bought a pump too..
- Thread starter
- #50
Now I should have asked this before I did most of the engine oil but doing synthetic blend castrol 10w-40, and then the rest with non-synthetic castrol 10w-40 bec that's what these older cars ask for (the non-synthetic), is that something y'all do or just go with synthetic blend the whole way or non-synthetic the whole way?
I know that is most likely gunna be the answer...
But I figured some synthetic albeit very minor bec of the blend first of all but then the rest full non-synthetic to make the amount of synthetic in there extremely minimal.
I know that is most likely gunna be the answer...
But I figured some synthetic albeit very minor bec of the blend first of all but then the rest full non-synthetic to make the amount of synthetic in there extremely minimal.
Last edited:
RevISK
SILVER Star
Oh boy, here we go with the oil talk…
Consensus is some thing with a high zinc content (or a zinc additive added).
Personally I use Valvoline VR1 in the 20-50 weight.
- Thread starter
- #52
Flow out the lower empty plug - check - but that happens very fast with barely 5 pumps from the jug. Have to cap then keep filling or else that would barely any oil (less 3/4 quart or like 5 pumps -
When you say until lube comes out - do you mean the filler plug? after stopping the major flow out the empty plug bec keeping that open while pumping just creates a self defeating purpose of pumping and draining at that point. So capping the empty plug once it's flowing to then keep filling obviously...do you mean fill it until it then comes out the top filler plug? (To be very specific with my question?)
Thx! If not I'll do 3 quarts because when draining the entire thing my emptying bucket I used has measuring point labels so I can see just a little over 3 quarts drained out altogether, because some is in the bigger clear plastic bin below that bucket with the fluid in it bec I wanted to show how decent it looked - pretty damn clear and good quality still came out but the transmission will appreciate the change none the less. Glad I got to do it actually.
lol yes put the plug back in the bottom (drain) and start to fill through the top plug. Fill until it comes out of the same plug you're filling from and stop
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
All reservoirs like that - manual transmissions, transfer cases, axle housings, anything that has a drain and a fill plug up the side, get filled until the oil reaches the bottom of the fill plug hole.
If you’re curious about the level in something like this without a dipstick, you can take the fill plug out and use a bent wire (or maybe your pinky) to check the level, and possibly the condition of the oil.
Also, don’t get carried away torquing these plugs. Or anything really. But not having them tight enough can be catastrophic. If you’re not familiar with torque and torque specs, you might want to get a torque wrench and google whatever it is you're working on to get the spec.
Keep taking pictures and keep asking questions, and you’ll learn what you need to know from the good people of Mud. Sometimes the hardest part is just knowing what to ask.
That fuelpump diaphragm failure/leaking into oilpan thing is not very common, but it is a possibility so we have to mention it. We already know why your oil was overfull this time so there's no mystery. I wouldn't open my fuel pump unless I suspected it and had a rebuild kit on hand. Just another good reason to pay attention to your dipstick
As others have said, fill till it comes out the fill plug. I'd probably use the same lube in the tcase, just to make it simple.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I wouldn’t mix synthetic and non synthetic. I, like @RevISK use the Valvoline VR1 20-50 in everything I own with pushrods. No worrying about adding additives or blending or anything.
- Thread starter
- #58
You guys are awesome .. I really appreciate all your input and assistance. I'm sure a couple of the questions I asked were dumb but just wanted to clarify things mentioned and ask everything even if embarrassing so I'm not doing anything incorrectly.
I would like to end this thread by going back to the original issue that caused me to check on all this stuff. Which is: my oil pressure guage going up to the high side is something I'm not used to - why is that happening? What can I check on to figure that out? and finally if there are multiple reasons why that can happen, where should I start on that? Because it makes me nervous to drive it when the indicator wants to go straight up to the 3/4 mark upon engine just warming up, not after driving. I will say I havnt noticed it going further than the 3/4 mark but I will watch that as I drive it after engine warms.
I would like to end this thread by going back to the original issue that caused me to check on all this stuff. Which is: my oil pressure guage going up to the high side is something I'm not used to - why is that happening? What can I check on to figure that out? and finally if there are multiple reasons why that can happen, where should I start on that? Because it makes me nervous to drive it when the indicator wants to go straight up to the 3/4 mark upon engine just warming up, not after driving. I will say I havnt noticed it going further than the 3/4 mark but I will watch that as I drive it after engine warms.
That's normal. Typically oil pressure is higher when cold and it would come down some once warm.
Also it's ~50 year old equipment/gauges so not super accurate. If you really want to see what the oil pressure is add a mechanical gauge.
Also it's ~50 year old equipment/gauges so not super accurate. If you really want to see what the oil pressure is add a mechanical gauge.
- Thread starter
- #60
Ok so it's normal for the oil pressure guage to go up 3/4 of the way, when first firing engine and then I let it sit for about 1m for the engine to get warm and ready to hit the road. Once warm it pretty much stays there, but I will keep watching and see if as my oil temp gauge goes up, if the pressure level gauge, in turn, goes down.
I am just not used to seeing that oil pressure gauge up so high so quick, but then again maybe I just wasn't paying attention and didn't notice that until now (this will only be the 3rd-4th time actually driving it around since getting back.