Not sure how my KZN130 is different (it may be the exact same) but there is a synchro on the front driveline in the case.
Normal operation of the computer engages the case before the front ADD (I checked), which means the driveline must be spun up by a synchro inside the case, instead of the front diff & CVs. Plus, the front ADD diff was never designed with any kind of rev-matching system, which it would need for smooth 4wd-on-the-fly that had the front diff engage first. I confirmed this by engaging 4wd by hitting the button on my NON-ADD truck with UNLOCKED manual hubs at 50mph. You could sense a slight (almost imperceptible) drag as the front driveshaft, diff, and cvs were spun up to speed, and the light came on happy as ever. Keep in mind, this is for my KZN130, which may be different.. but then it may not.
All of this allows seamless push button 4wd, assuming the computer is happy. It checks to be sure you are under a certain speed (60-80km/hr IIRC), -AND- that the front diff temp is low enough. This is what baffles a lot of people doing swaps: they keep the old front diff without the temp sender, and they wonder why the computer just flashes the light and beeps instead of engaging while moving at even a crawl. It thinks the front diff is too hot with the open circuit. Either install the temp sender, or bypass it (just jumper the connections is what I did successfully) and it should work fine.
I have the same skid plate on my US market '130. It required installing a bracket that came on the KZN130 clip at the front... otherwise it wouldn't bolt up. Not sure how big your radiator is, but the KZN130 rad is MUCH bigger than the VZN130 unit, and the only place for them to go with it was down. That explains the extra volume in the front of the skid plate (mine anyway).