ROTM-Southerncruiser62's 1992 Diesel Pickup

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Idk if this is true for your or not, but my Hilux Surf has shift on the fly into 4 HI, you can shift into 4 Hi up 80 Km/H....
This is the stock tcase that came with the truck
 
Idk if this is true for your or not, but my Hilux Surf has shift on the fly into 4 HI, you can shift into 4 Hi up 80 Km/H....
This is the stock tcase that came with the truck


Interesting. Mine will not engage if wheel speed is not ZERO. I even have to be stopped for a second or two before it will engage. Otherwise I get a blinking "4WD" indicatorvand some annoying beeping.

Mine is a 1981 LN-130-GKMT IIRC.

Dan
 
The button on the transfer case shifter is to activate the solenoid on the transfer case. This engages 4WD high. Pull the shifter back and this activates 4WD low. The transmission itself is the same R-150F but the transfer case itself is JDM specific. You can disable the speed warning pretty easily by modifying 2 wires on the 4WD computer. You just want to make sure that your wheel locks are not in the lock position or it will be a rough engagement -Todd
 
Not sure how my KZN130 is different (it may be the exact same) but there is a synchro on the front driveline in the case.

Normal operation of the computer engages the case before the front ADD (I checked), which means the driveline must be spun up by a synchro inside the case, instead of the front diff & CVs. Plus, the front ADD diff was never designed with any kind of rev-matching system, which it would need for smooth 4wd-on-the-fly that had the front diff engage first. I confirmed this by engaging 4wd by hitting the button on my NON-ADD truck with UNLOCKED manual hubs at 50mph. You could sense a slight (almost imperceptible) drag as the front driveshaft, diff, and cvs were spun up to speed, and the light came on happy as ever. Keep in mind, this is for my KZN130, which may be different.. but then it may not.

All of this allows seamless push button 4wd, assuming the computer is happy. It checks to be sure you are under a certain speed (60-80km/hr IIRC), -AND- that the front diff temp is low enough. This is what baffles a lot of people doing swaps: they keep the old front diff without the temp sender, and they wonder why the computer just flashes the light and beeps instead of engaging while moving at even a crawl. It thinks the front diff is too hot with the open circuit. Either install the temp sender, or bypass it (just jumper the connections is what I did successfully) and it should work fine.

I have the same skid plate on my US market '130. It required installing a bracket that came on the KZN130 clip at the front... otherwise it wouldn't bolt up. Not sure how big your radiator is, but the KZN130 rad is MUCH bigger than the VZN130 unit, and the only place for them to go with it was down. That explains the extra volume in the front of the skid plate (mine anyway).
 
Sometimes I just love myself with these little things I pick up on to use on stateside builds. Now to see if the owner I am talking to will take the idea and run with it..
:hillbilly:

Cool, Cool, Greg, I appreciate you letting me throw out this little detour, and definitely appreciate our Diesel Forum guys for jumping into the conversation.

Mods, please add this tech into the FAQ somehow, because as I suspected, it will be relatively easy to integrate this system into the rear of a R150 should someone so desire, as you can not only get the diesel engine and matching trans these days, but just the KZN130 trans to throw behind a gasser.

FWIW, now I want to compare this setup to the running system on the 95.5- Tacomas and 4Runners with manual trans.
 
FYI, the electronic transfer case actuator motor, limit switches, and wiring all operate the same as an e-locker.. though the computer controlling it looks for more in the way of signals before it does all of this. If you wanted to ditch the computer and just run an e-locker relay setup, it should work just fine. Then you get into the ability to engage it at too high of a speed though.. and you lose automatic ADD control (if you still had ADD). Actually, you could set up the ADD to operate off the 4wd indicator switch in the case (which is how the computer does it anyway).

Also, Deepfried on ToyotaDiesel ditched his electronic transfer case for the manual chain-drive case that originally came on his US V6 R150F.. which suggests the bolt patterns are compatible. he did talk about swapping over a splined coupler.. though that part wasn't as clear.
 
Hi!,
im driving an 1993 hilux surf with pretty mutch the same set up (exept auto tranny) for over a year now (45 000km done) and it definitely shift on the fly up to 110km/h....
i just hit the 4wd button and lift the right foot for a sec or two and... et voila! the front was engaged!

same with any toyotas 4x4 from 79 to today!
just make shure the locking hub where locked if so equipped and the truck as four evenly worn out tire inflated at the same pressure
and the high range should engage at any speed if there's no binding in the driveline. it will not engage under acceleration, wheel spining ect....

thats 4x4"basics".... you may have a mecanical or electric problem....

and the front skid plate on my truck was made of steel and it as a different shape from NA market truck
it was "deeper" in the front only to protect the bottom of the radiator witch is way longer than the gassers radiator!

take note: these skid plates are not bolt-on to the front of a NA truck...
theres an extra braket that need to be bolted to the front crossmember, then we can bolt the plate to the bracket....
the rear bolts are in the same spot on the ifs crossmember.

there's no PS cooler on these truck cause its RHD and the pump was on the left.... the lines passes in front of the engine, just below the rad shroud.
 
the skid plate that you guys are talking about is deeper because the a/c condenssor is underslung behind the skidplate, not infront of the rad, they put it there after the 2lte surfs were having overheating problems.

that is one nice looking conversion, was it hard finding a manual trans?
 
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