Rock Cruiser, FJ-40 Outline 1/10 scale RC (1 Viewer)

roadstr6

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Not really crawler worthy or even worth trying to make into a crawler. There is a reason why it's $199. I've seen one in person. It's not worth the $199. The motor is about the size of your thumb. I had to look gingerly at it so as not to break it.

The list of features is a complete joke:

3. Optimized ratio drive structure, four-wheel drive, center gear box ensures the weight ratio.
7. Good steering system, powerful and sensitive waterproof server, only half the torque to make
the car be more flexible steering.
8. Using imported arm oil and accurate detection program, the damping effect of the car is better.



None of this makes any sense whatsoever. Imported arm oil? Seriously? "Half the torque to make the car be more flexible steering" Hmmm....okay? Everybody knows that a good RC crawler has got to have the optimized ratio drive structure and a center gear box to ensure the weight ratio, right? Or do they? I'm not sure.

It is a 40, so it does look cool but not something on my shopping list. Now, the RC4WD Gelende 2 is a different story.
 

roadstr6

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Is it easy to maneuver with Plenty of power??
It's junk. Don't buy it. Buy a real RC from a reputable company. Axial, RC4WD and Traxxas are the leaders in the crawler world. Parts availability for the cheapo Chinese stuff is slim and none. All RC's break. Buy one that you can get parts for.
 
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Michael B

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Aug 1, 2012
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That's an interesting comment, I bought a Tamiya unit and ran it three times when a piece of the steering linkage broke. It's not available for purchase.
 

dcx13

Life's too short for bad coffee.
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I'd go with any of the Axial SCX10 platforms, then pop the MST J45C body on it. Axial parts are readily available damn near everywhere! That's the route I went: SCX10.2 with a Vanquish VS4-10 chassis conversion, and the J45C body from MST.

user69475_pic68224_1596587904.jpeg
 

dcx13

Life's too short for bad coffee.
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Here it is before paint. The cab & rear bed/roll bar are all part of the body kit. They're 2 separate sections, which gives you creative freedoms. A big bonus is that the cab is a full rear panel, not a huge cutout below the window, etc. The grill, wipers, snorkel, mirrors, etc are all included. I did eventually replace the mirrors with a set of folding ones for the Axial UMG10 kit (see also: sheared them off in the rocks).

It's a tad spendy ($100), but the quality is top-notch & I feel the end result is worth it. Not many proper Lexan LCs out there, of any type.

IMG_3364.jpeg
 

dcx13

Life's too short for bad coffee.
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Thanks! Nice job with the patina. It is a very good looking rig.
Thanks!
The patina is done by painting both inside & out. I use Tamiya PS-14 Copper on the inside, backed with PS-5 Black. Then I hit the outside with PS-55 Flat Clear, which gives the body color something more to adhere to. The body color is Rustoleum Painter's Touch for wood, metal & plastic. The color is "Satin Fossil" which is nearly an exact match to Toyota's beige color. As the first few light coats of exterior color are applied, I sprinkled coarsely ground sea salt on the body, in spots that would normally accumulate grime or get baked by the sun on a real truck. Then a few more light coats to ensure good coverage & let it dry. Once it's dry, I'll take 400+ wet/dry emery cloth and scuff spots that would see normal wear & tear, then use #0000 steel wool to scrub off the salty spots. Between the copper inner color, the scuffing, the left behind salt residue & tiny bits of steel wool, you get a nice aging effect. Panel lines are drawn in with a .01 tip permanent ink marker. And the more it gets knocked around, the more beat up it looks, as paint gets worn off.

Here's what it looks like after some trail time & some rough 'n tumble. You can also see the "sun-baked" paint on the roof, from the salt technique.
IMG_3464.jpeg
 
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Joined
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Central VA
Great job! That looks legit!

I gotta' say.. judging from the background, you might have a problem! Nice pile of RC.
 
Joined
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I've got a pile of "vintage" (lol!) stuff. Been toting 5-6 late 80's hot rods for most of my life. Most of the batteries will still take a charge! SC, SCE and SCR cells... brushless motors.... umm nope! I never was a painter though, just a builder.
 

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