Builds Reviving "the wife's" 80 (1 Viewer)

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@jacamp003 and I got the drivetrain out today and the engine separated. Now I’m just removing parts and bits that I don’t want to go back to the machine shop.

J didn’t want his pic taken, but hey, he’s finally wrenching on trucks with me.
 
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The engine shop owner picked up the ping block today while I was at work. That was super cool.

While he has it I’m prepping some better front sheet metal to paint and swap in at the same time. The right fender is sanded/blaster and ready for flare hole weld patching. I did more cleanup on it today after work.
 
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The engine shop called and said we had a blown head gasket.

What can cause this in only 6,000 miles?
I’m awaiting responses from experts, but am glad to take any suggestions here too.

The shop suggested maybe a faulty EGR valve-detonation.

Local dealers don’t see the valve available anymore, but they’re available on Amazon and eBay among others.

I also plasma cut a chunk of the old rusty left fender to make flare hole patches for the new right fender. I hope to tack the patches in tomorrow.
 
View attachment 1784136 View attachment 1784138 The engine shop called and said we had a blown head gasket.

What can cause this in only 6,000 miles?
I’m awaiting responses from experts, but am glad to take any suggestions here too.

The shop suggested maybe a faulty EGR valve-detonation.

Local dealers don’t see the valve available anymore, but they’re available on Amazon and eBay among others.

I also plasma cut a chunk of the old rusty left fender to make flare hole patches for the new right fender. I hope to tack the patches in tomorrow.

That's strange. Was it a Toyota HG? If not, that totally explains it, at least from reading up. The MrT gasket is kind of a must.

On the egr, I say just block that sucker off and punt it. Aussie engines don't lose head gaskets and don't use egr. Hmmmm..

You can do a simple resistor to the egr plug to keep the check engine light away.
 
Looking at that gasket sure explains the low compression! The fire rings are long gone. Never thought of that one when we were talking about the symptoms. No coolant loss the way they are burned either, I suspect.
 
Thanks Pat. No coolant loss which was weird.

As for the EGR valve, the shop owner explained the purpose of keeping and using it for engine temps and economy which are usually a concern for many of us.

They will do a slight .001” skim off the head and probably .003-4” off the deck to true things up. I’ll use the link you sent me to buy the OEM gaskets this time.

I don’t have the receipts and can’t recall which off brand gaskets I used last time. That won’t happen again...
 
That is very visible three failures in that one head gasket just a quick glance of your photos. That just tells me that the previous head gasket repair was not done properly either by not checking flatness of the head and/or block or not properly using proper torque on the head bolts. The "They will do a slight .001” skim off the head and probably .003-4” off the deck to true things up." statement is scary as I can't recall any other head gasket thread here on mud where those small dimensions were used to correct a warped head or block. Even with a cheap gasket a proper repair would have lasted much longer. I wouldn't let those clowns touch my motor again let alone tear it down even further. Was this a shop in Grand Rapids? I can ask my BIL, who has many contacts in the area, experience with engine shops, for a recommendation if you would like.
 
The machining would be only for cleanup. My daughter had orivinalllg warped the head .020”. The shop baked it and got it flat again. This time it was within .001” of flat. The block was done later than the head and because of the bad HG developed a slight valley between #4&5 cylinder walls.

When I assembled the head onto the block last time using the now failed gasket, I used ARP bolts and proper torque settings and sequence.

@ppc I’d love a contact, but maybe for my 6.0 or future projects. This one is too far underway.
 
I spent an hour after work welding in the fender flare holes. It wasn’t pretty, but I have a grinder... The backside is smoothed and sealed. I smoothed the outside and will probably skim with filler tomorrow. It’s already too cool tonight and I still have a leaky toilet to fix.

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WOW!

I had not realized what all you have done to this truck and the tribulations you have gone through!

Great job on what you've done!

I second the remarks from dogfishlake about the Toyota gasket.

Make sure to use a quality torque wrench and follow ARP's installation instructions, as they are different from Toyota's (reference @scottryana )
 
It’s been a haul... I love my 40 first, but after working with Luke at 4x4labs and attending CM05 I learned the greatness of the 80-series and had to have one.

We bought the rusty truck with 250k and lockers, the rear still not working. I have fought to keep it and make it go over and over not loosing hope that it will be a good tool and fun toy for my wife and me.
 
It is totally wierd with different 80's. I spent kind of a lot on my 80, and put a lot more in it and it is pretty great for the effort, but my 17 year old kid's 80 cost 1500 with a blown head gasket and we have so little into that thing but dang it if it doesn't run and drive as well as any 80 ever and is totally fun. The green she picked out for the 1 weekend paint job gets it tons of people commenting and even taking pictures and even "jeep waves" from jeep people!
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The machining would be only for cleanup. My daughter had orivinalllg warped the head .020”. The shop baked it and got it flat again. This time it was within .001” of flat. The block was done later than the head and because of the bad HG developed a slight valley between #4&5 cylinder walls.

When I assembled the head onto the block last time using the now failed gasket, I used ARP bolts and proper torque settings and sequence.

@ppc I’d love a contact, but maybe for my 6.0 or future projects. This one is too far underway.
Consider having the head port n polished while it's off. Should help give it some more power.
 
Just talked with the engine shop. I’m not going to polish and port. This is Ms. 69’s truck. (She should have her own mud handle by now... I’d call her FZJ L80 like her plate)

What they found though when they pulled the pistons is that the top rod bearings were mashed from detonation.

He suggested a new knock sensor which I just got in the mail this week, Thanks @slow95z
 
Just talked with the engine shop. I’m not going to polish and port. This is Ms. 69’s truck. (She should have her own mud handle by now... I’d call her FZJ L80 like her plate)

What they found though when they pulled the pistons is that the top rod bearings were mashed from detonation.

He suggested a new knock sensor which I just got in the mail this week, Thanks @slow95z

Consider looking over your injectors and the injector wiring harness.

You mentioned you smelled fuel. It's possible that your injectors are hanging and dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. Also, don;t forget that Toyota switches the GROUND side of the circuit, so, if the ground wire between the injector and the switch is shorting to ground, it will be firing and dumping fuel into the cylinders. This is common on the melted EGR part of the harness as well as the part above the glove box inside the cab rubbing on the dash frame.
 

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