- Thread starter
- #541
I did not RTV the splines! Worth a try for sure! Thank you.
I'll be driving it home from work shortly, so I'll check the temp when I get home. Great suggestion.
Build Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40
- Thread starter diesellibrarian
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I'll be driving it home from work shortly, so I'll check the temp when I get home. Great suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #544
Yes, it seemed like a typical oil seal type fit.
Diff does not appear to be getting hot. Was barely warm to the touch after 20 mins of driving.
Appreciate the advice, everyone!
- Thread starter
- #545
Update: I’m an idiot.
Pulled the pinion flange again tonight, and it was perfectly dry. Not a hint of any sort of leaking past the seal. So I kind of resigned myself to pulling the third member and reinstalling with a fresh gasket BUT before doing that I decided to check one last time that all the nuts were tight, and that’s when I finally saw this:
Apparently when I installed this third, I just plain forgot to install that one stud and nut. So I dug one out of my bag of spares, zipped it in, and boom! No more leak. IDIOT!
Sorry to have wasted everyone’s time with this haha
Pulled the pinion flange again tonight, and it was perfectly dry. Not a hint of any sort of leaking past the seal. So I kind of resigned myself to pulling the third member and reinstalling with a fresh gasket BUT before doing that I decided to check one last time that all the nuts were tight, and that’s when I finally saw this:
Apparently when I installed this third, I just plain forgot to install that one stud and nut. So I dug one out of my bag of spares, zipped it in, and boom! No more leak. IDIOT!
Sorry to have wasted everyone’s time with this haha
Last edited:
At least you solved the issue.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Oof.
The best lessons are the ones we teach ourselves sometimes.
The best lessons are the ones we teach ourselves sometimes.
- Thread starter
- #548
I think I need to get some single-vision lenses for wrenching. When I’m working under the car I often end up looking up through the top of my progressive lenses, which has a weaker prescription, and as a result I can’t see NOTHIN
I’m definitely blaming my glasses for this little misadventure.
I’m definitely blaming my glasses for this little misadventure.
I'm planning to get some about arms length computer glasses, dollar store readers aren't cutting it any more.
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
I went from 20/20 vision to no line progressives over night in my 40's.
- Thread starter
- #551
Update: I’ve been driving the 40 around town topless (not me, the truck), and it’s so much fun! Probably the most fun I’ve had driving a car. Overall it’s running well and has plenty of get up and go.
One thing I’ve noticed that I wanted to ask about: after I’ve been driving for a while, it gets harder to get into gear. Has anyone noticed this on their 40? I’m assuming it’s clutch-related. Maybe I need to lengthen the push rod a little to help with disengagement? Once cooled off it shifts normally again.
Three speed floor shift, three-finger clutch.
Any insight gratefully received.
One thing I’ve noticed that I wanted to ask about: after I’ve been driving for a while, it gets harder to get into gear. Has anyone noticed this on their 40? I’m assuming it’s clutch-related. Maybe I need to lengthen the push rod a little to help with disengagement? Once cooled off it shifts normally again.
Three speed floor shift, three-finger clutch.
Any insight gratefully received.
Blead the clutch system, see if that fixes it. No then try adjusting the rod a little more out to specs.
Or one step further and flush the clutch system! Basically bleed it, but bleed it long enough that clean fluid comes out the bottom. There's not much total fluid in there so it's super easy and takes a fraction of the time of brakes. Old fluid can get weird in how it behaves hydraulicly.
Brake fluid Dot 3 is hydroscopic as in sucks water out of the air - want to avoid issues blead out a reservoir full every year or two.
- Thread starter
- #555
The entire system is brand new, from soup to nuts (except for the clutch itself) but I will bleed it again to see if that helps.
None of us have done anything that silly..... today.
- Thread starter
- #557
Not really FJ40-related, but since I had posted some pics of my brother's van earlier in the thread, I thought I'd provide an update, as we spent the weekend on final bodywork and paint! We resprayed it the original Sierra Yellow using a 2k acrylic enamel. Turned out not bad!
We are just in the final reassembly stage of the van, and once it's done I'll be launching into my next project: my 1977 FJ55. I'm planning to document this next project on YouTube. I'll be starting a new build thread as well.
We are just in the final reassembly stage of the van, and once it's done I'll be launching into my next project: my 1977 FJ55. I'm planning to document this next project on YouTube. I'll be starting a new build thread as well.
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Looking great! Hey, November 6-7-8 there is a BIG VW gathering down here. You and your brother should come join! My neighbor's VW has won 1st place in the contest part 3 years in a row. This year he is taking a convertible he just finished "for my wife" if we are to believe that. LOL. Below is a link to the website for the show, AND check out the T-shirt I got a couple of weeks ago when I donated blood:
FloridaBugJam.com – Volkswagen Car Show - https://floridabugjam.com/
- Thread starter
- #559
I was able to resolve my clutch issues. Turns out it was an issue with the clutch fork push rod length. I was messing around with things and somehow got it to the point where it wouldn’t go into gear at all lol. So I pulled out my trusty service manual and started from scratch: set the pedal height and free play, and then set the push rod free play. In the end I had to add about 3/4” to the length of the rod.
Not sure how I got it so wrong when I first installed my new clutch slave cylinder, but it seems to be sorted now. I also bled the system, for good measure. Thanks again for all the advice.